| Author | Message | ||
     99x1 |
Unplugging the neutral switch won't help, it has to be closed. Try spraying the sidestand switch or shorting it's two wires together. The clutch switch also can be sprayed, try lifting up and down on the lever while pulled in and listening for the click. Removing the diode from the fuse panel, and connecting the one side of the now open slot to ground with a short wire (small tab on one end, ring terminal to fuse panel mount screw on the other) will hold the ignition relay in. | ||
| Coopy |
One last ?. Until investigating yesterday i did not know I had a clutch switch. What does it do? On my wifes blast you have to pull the clutch in for it to start, on mine you never have. Coopy | ||
| Coopy |
I lied, one more ? I checked my kickstand switch with a multimeter and it had continuity when the stand was down and up, think this may be where the problem lies? Coopy | ||
| 99x1 |
"clutch switch. What does it do? " As per the diagram above, if the bike is not in neutral, but the clutch is pulled in, the bike will start and run. The sidestand switch should be open when it is down, and closed when fully retracted. The clutch switch should be open with the clutch lever out, closed when the lever is pulled in against the handlebar. The neutral switch is closed when in neutral only. The bike won't start in gear with the clutch out (it would move), and the bike won't run if the clutch is let out with the sidestand down (leaning into corner with sidestand down may cause problems). A simple way to test the switches on a FI bike is: With the bike in gear, pulling in on the clutch (with the key on) one should hear the fuel pump start and the engine light should come on (briefly). Likewise, with the bike in gear, clutch out, retracting the sidestand should cause the pump to start and the engine lamp to briefly glow. | ||
| Teenc |
Well, it's that time of year again! I tried to go for a ride and had to jump-start my 99X1. This bike just does not want to start when it gets cold outside! I'm not sure of the exact temperature, but there was ice on my seat from dew freezing. The battery is a new Hawker and the voltage regulator is also new. I have a few questions and thoughts, and any comments or answers are welcome! The bike is just always very hard to start. I typically have to crank on the throttle to get it to start no matter what the outside temperature. Once I've ridden it for a while and the engine is hot, it starts right up. -Could the power commander make it hard to start if it is set up wrong? (i.e. too rich or lean?) This might sound weird, but recently I blew that gasket that seals the headers to the engine, and before I fixed it, I could swear the bike was easier to start. -Is it possible that my Borla CF exhaust is too restrictive? Does that even make sense? My first motorcycle was a 250cc Honda Rebel, which had carbs. That thing would probably start on the North Pole with a 9volt Duracell! I keep wondering, what is the difference here, the buell has a bigger engine, does that make it harder to start? fuel injection vs. carbs? do I just need a tune-up? In conclusion, I defiantly feel there is something wrong with the bike. There is no way it should be this hard to start. I wish I had another 99X1 to compare it to. I bought it used and for all I know, there has been something wrong all along. SYMPTOMS: -Hard to start (especially on cold days) -Could be knocking noise (not sure, nothing to compare to) -engine backfires occasionally (especially when engine is cold) STATS: -1999 X1 Lightning -Borla CF exhaust -Power Commander -Standard ECM -10,000 miles For now I guess I will just strap a car battery on the back, and permanently weld on some jumper cables.  | ||
| Knickers |
Teenc I have a 2000 S3. I've always had trouble starting on cold days so I've learned to use the idle speed adjustment screw like a choke. If its below 60 I give it a 1/2 turn clockwise before starting and leave it that way until the engine is warm. Starts easy and no need to hold the throttle open. Kurt | ||
| Rick_a |
What you fellas need is CARBURETORS! The reason the bike may have been easier to start with an exhaust leak is that the extra oxygen may have "tricked" the O2 sensor. Borla exhausts are OK...they tend to be really midrange oriented. How long since a tune-up? Never hurts...wouldn't hurt to check what that Power Commander is doin', too...like what it reads for fuel mixture. | ||
| Teenc |
Here's a small update of what I did today. I decided to remove the power commander, and all of it's components. After removing it, the bike seemed to start stronger. This will be tested further tonight when the temps go down. I am sure I will not miss the power commander at all. I do have a few questions about it though. -Does the PCIII draw a lot of power at startup? -I wasn't using the special O2 sensor, does this matter? -There was another plug, single pin, next to the one for the O2 sensor, what does this do? Thanks again guys for the input. Great tip Kurt, I will definitely increase the idle speed next time. Any other info on that borla Rick? I like the thing, but I don't like the fact that I can't see inside of it or take it apart. I have no idea of what's going on inside of there. Wish I could find a diagram or something. | ||
| 99x1 |
"Hard to start (especially on cold days)" Check your engine temp sensor resistance (on a 99 its near the rear spark plug). The wire is kinda fragile where it enters the sensor. The ECM uses this input to know when the engine is cold and then increases the length of the fuel injector pulse - similar to the choke on a carb. Mine starts easily all the time - don't regress to a carb! | ||
| 99x1 |
"Starts easy and no need to hold the throttle open." At idle, the ECM varies the ignition advance (between 5 - 30 degs) to automatically maintain the idle speed - it uses the TPS (throttle position sensor) reset values to know when it is at idle. Mine will idle without throttle - most times I can just touch the start button and it starts and idles. Your TPS may be set slightly off - and adjusting the idle puts it in the value the ECM is expecting? | ||
| Kenbull |
Speaking of carburetors, the dealer recently rebuilt mine. I had it in the shop for belt replacement and rear isolators. I’m not sure if I agreed to the carburetor rebuild, but it does start/run better. Anyhow, I decided to change the slow jet from a 45 (which is to small for cold weather riding) to 48. Well, the bike wouldn’t crank. The root cause is a toasted stator. 1.4 VAC with the engine turning 1600 RPM. I’ve just drop $740 at my local dealer and I know it would be more other stuff to repair for another big bill. My heart was low until I started reading the discussion board on removing the sprocket/clutch assembly. Now the stator is in my hand. Thanks, for the knowledge vault.  | ||
| Mbsween |
Hey, just being lazy, anyone have a how-to for adding an accessory outle to an spare slot in the fuse box? I need to hook up my electric vest and I hate wiring directly into the battery. I can solder enough to make stuff work, but beyond that I need to call in help Thanks Matt (Message edited by mbsween on October 18, 2004) | ||
| Knickers |
Matt, I just added wiring for some hot grips to the fuse box on my S3. Here's a couple of points on how I did it: - All the spare slots in the fuse box already have wires attached. The factory just looped a white wire to each side of the fuse. - I couldn't figure out how to get the wire terminals out of the fuse box so I cut and spliced in the harness. - Step 1. I cut the wire feeding the accessory circuit (this is the one comming directly from the ignition switch to accessory power)and added a spade connector to each end. - Step 2. I cut one of the spare white leads and spliced it to the accessory power spade connector I cut in step 1. Then mated the spade connector.(wrapped all connections in heat shrink tubing) This gave me accessory power input to the spare fuse terminal. - Step 3. Spliced my grip power wire to the other side of the white wire (the one I cut in step 2) in the spare fuse slot, again soldered spade connector with heat shrink tubing. Now I have grip power with a 4 amp fuse running off the accessory circuit. I grounded to the chassis through one of the coil mounting bolts, but only because it was closer to the grips. You could probably hook up to the main chassis ground terminal just above the battery (at least that's where it is on an S3). Hope this helps. Kurt | ||
| Mbsween |
Kurt, Thanks! Sounds like an elegant solution. any chance you have any pics? I can be pretty dense when it comes to wiring. I think I have it straight. I'm thinking i can supply power to two of the fuse slots from accessory power , add some sort of connector to the other side of the white wire from the fuse slots and that way I'll be ready when I add the heated gloves or grips. Which grips did you use? How do you like them? I see you live in one of those "bad weather" states like me. Matt | ||
| Knickers |
I don't have any pictures handy. I'll try to get some this weekend. If not I'll sketch something up. I went with HotGrips. You can find them here http://www.aerostich.com/riderwearhouse.store I just got back from a 2400 mile trip through New England and I used them all the time. With normal mild weather gloves the low position is perfect for 50-60 degree weather. I haven't got the colder temps figured out though. With more heavily insulated gloves, the low position doesn't provide enough heat, but on high the throttle side becomes too hot for comfort. The left hand is perfect cause it loses more heat through the bar. I need to come up with a regulator system to get the right level of heat balanced on both sides. I also had some difficulty with sizing them. I went with the 4.75" lenght because that was closest to the stock grips, but I ended up having to trim the ends with an exacto knife to get them to slide on all the way. 5.25" may be the right lenght for Buells. | ||
| Littlebuggles  |
Installed the Race ignition spec'd for the cyclone about a month ago. Since then I loose power between 4-5K RPM under hard acceleration, no noticeable power loss with gradual roll on. I have a few other variables involved - filled my tank and put fuel stabilizer in at the same time. Also colder temp since the install, don't think this is the problem though. Riding today in mid to upper 40's with new gas I had the same problem. When I whack open the throttle at about 35-3700 it accelerates cleanly up to 41ish where power drops and becomes surgey(?) til 5K. Ideas are welcome, maybe just a lean mixture? Vance pipe, Buell race intake with Dynojet kit (I don't remember the jet sizes but they're in my profile). Maybe the surging is actually detonation? I would think I'd hear terrible enough noises to freak me out if it were that... -Mike | ||
| Robr |
Mike, I would start by reinstalling the stock ignition and see what happens. Rob | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Thanks Rob, I'll do that. | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Hey Guys, I need some help and couldn't find any place to ask. This isn't for my Buell, it's for an Electra Glide, so feel free to delete this if it's not okay, Blake. I've got an idea what's wrong, but I wanted to run it past you guys, because most of you know more than I do about these twins. Here's the deal. I've got a 1991 Electra Glide Classic with a fairly new top end. (7000 miles/4years ago) that obviously doesn't get ridden very often. Recently, the thing will intermittently run like crap! Here's a for instance. Yesterday, I pulled the S&S carb off and tore it down thinking it might have some dirt or something in it. It didn't. It looked just fine. So, I took it for a ride. It ran like crap for the first five miles and then smoothed out and ran like a top for the next hour or so, till I parked it. You couldn't have asked it to run any nicer. Today, I went out to take it for a ride and it ran like crap again until I got it on the highway. Then, after a few miles it seemed to run pretty good. I was cruising at 80 to 90 MPH with no problem. I ran this way for 20 miles or so, and upon exiting the highway, within 200 feet it started running really bad. Basically at this point it's running on one cylinder, with the other cylinder kicking in and out. When it kicks in, it kicks in for a millisecond or two and then kicks right back out. Needless to say, this means your riding down the road bucking and kicking, spitting and coughing, with an occasional backfire through the carb. (It's pretty embarasing!) It ran so bad, I left it at a friends house and got a ride home. I'll pick it up later and trailer it home. Now, I've deduced that it ain't fuel since the carb is clean and since that wouldn't make it run on one cylinder anyway. The spark "pick-up" has been replace by the dealer, so that shouldn't be a problem. My guess is maybe the coil, or the ignition box, which is a Screamin Eagle box that's been on there for at least 10 years. (Was on there when we got it) I am open to any suggestions. The Harley dealer has tried several times to fix it and has basically given up. Any ideas? Don't be shy. My next step is to replace the coil and then the ignition box, but I'm open to any better ideas. Thanks. And I'm sorry this isn't Buell related, but the bike IS related to a Buell. Chris | ||
| Firemanjim |
Plugs,plug wires,check for corrosion at coil,check all connectors for corrosion/tightness.Make sure all ground wires are getting good contact.Try wiggling wiring harness,ignition switch,handlebar controls to see if this will induce it. | ||
| Robr |
Everything Fireman Jim said. Also here are somethings that caused my '90 Sporty to run like crap over the years. Make absolutely certain the battery is not weak. My Sportster would start fine but then run like crap until I guess it got to a fully charged state then it would run ok until the next ride. I swapped out the battery. Second change out the spark plugs, I've had bad Harley plugs right out of the package. Third, try a hot wire to the coil (this checks the ignition kill switch). I also had a corroded ground wire to my ignition module cause something like this. Good Luck, Rob | ||
| Chris_mackay |
Sounds a lot like a leak in the intake. Wiggle the carb. | ||
| Bigfanof6 |
Thanks for the ideas. Lets see... The intakes have been checked for leaks, so that ain't it. The plugs and wires are new, so that ain't it. Battery is good...Blah, blah, blah. However, today I took my trailer up to where I left the bike and loaded it up. (It ain't easy getting a full dresser up a ramp on one cylinder with no help!) Just for kicks, I stopped on the way home and picked up a set of plugs. All they had was Autolites, but what the heck. I just wanted to see if that other cylinder would fire. Installed the plugs, and WALAH! The damn thing purrs like a kitten. Now this doesn't fix my origional problem, as this has been going on for awhile. But it damn sure fixes my problem of the other day. I guess I'll just have to ride it some more and see if I can get it to act up again. Damn! I would much rather ride my Buell. Oh well, it could be worse. Anyway, thanks for the help, and I'm still open to any suggestions, as this has been doing this for awhile now. It will run great for awhile, and then run like crap for awhile. Be careful out there, Chris | ||
| Henrik |
Just because the plugs and wires are new, doesn't necessarily mean they're good ... I'd installed Dyna coils on my old Shovelhead for a single fire set-up. Wouldn't start at all. Went through everything, only to realize, that the cause was my own dang fault for painting the coils. I'd sprayed them black, and a mechanic at an indie shop told me that the paint could cause the power that should have give spark to bleed out across the surface of the coil, through the paint  At the time I was thinking "shenanigans", but when I replaced the coils, the bike fired right up. Still not 100% the paint was the cause ... but just a story to point out that assumption ... etc. etc.  Henrik | ||
| Bomber |
H -- he was right -- experience is a harsh taskmistress . . . . . . more importantly, as you said, just cuz a part is new don't make a "known good part," as called out in the pantheon of useful troubleshooting tools | ||
| Akinley79 |
Day before yesterday we put a race pipe on a 2003 Buell XB9S Lightning and it ran fine that day now the bike will not "turn over". Any suggestions? | ||
| Tim |
Check your battery connections and any other wiring you may have moved, tugged on, pulled etc., while installing the pipe. If it "turns over" but doesn't fire I would check plug wires,coil wires, etc. | ||
| Tim |
Another easy mistake to make is to turn your key to the "park" position instead of "off". This allows you to walk away with your taillight on and eventually drain the battery. | ||
| 99x1 |
 I made myself a voltmeter/clock for my bike today. It is a cheap bicycle speedometer - they are normally triggered by a magnet on the bicycle wheel passing a reed switch. I replaced the reed switch with a reed relay ($1.69) and used a 12F675 microcontroller ($2.05) to measure battery voltage and put out a pulse to simulate the wheel turning. With a circumference of 208 cm (26" wheel), 10 mph pulses are 465 msec apart, while at 15 mph pulses are 310 msec. The circumference can be changed in the speedometer, so the voltmeter can be adjusted so that it reads right on (ie 12.0 volts reads 12.0 mph). I built it using a "device on device" technique - hot melt glue holding all the parts together and then potted into a cut down syringe. It also has a clock, and turns off by itself when the key is turned off (on the bicycle when the wheel stops turning the speedo will shut down). I will run it for a while and see how well it holds up. If anyone wants source code, parts list, or diagram, let me know....   | ||
| Aaomy |
that is cool as hell!!! i love ingenuity! and yes i would love to know how to make one.. |
