| Author | Message | ||
     Rempss |
Need a little experience help. Just tore down my 1999 X1 for Nallin heads/1250 kit. As I was poking around the see the inside of the cases and clean up the gasket surefaces I noticed a small amount of side to side play (wiggle) in the front connecting rod, probably no more the a few thounsandths, is any play allowed here? The rear has none taht I can tell by a lihght wiggle. I don't know how to measure this without tearing the cases apart. I'd rather not do that. Thanks, Jeff | ||
| Dpb |
I've got a 99 S3T with 39,000 miles on it. It's stock. What is "THE" solution to fix the crankcase vents? I'm tired of the oil in the air box. Thanks for any help. David | ||
| Blake |
David: That's still open for discussion, but you'll find plenty of input on the "Engine - Breathers" page.  | ||
| Sem1 |
A quick question: can I replace the primary and cam covers of my S1W with those of a 2001 Sportster? I.e. are parts 25430-94A and 25219-91B exchangeable with 34951-95 and 25230-98A? Also, is there anything special to swapping the covers in general? I would greatly appreciate any input. Cheers, Semi | ||
| Tims |
Thought I'd have a look at camshaft timing on my 97 Buell when fitting new cams, so I had a friend of mine machine up a jig to mount a dial indicator over the lifter bore. Timing figures looked good, with only a degree or two difference. BUT the cam lift was out by about .010" The cams where new N6s, which I've since had checked and found to be ok. (sorry for doubting you Andrews) I've rechecked the figures and get the same results, am using a good dial indicator that is true with the lifter. The bike has not got big miles on it. Retrying my original S1 cams and checking the specs shows the same problem. About .008" lose of cam lift. Could the problem be misaligned lifter bores??? And if so, any relatively easy way to check this??? Any other possible causes???? thanks Tim | ||
| Blake |
Tim: Where are you taking the measurement? At the cam itself or at the top of the lifter, or at the rockerbox (top of pushrod)? Can you post a picture? There are all kinds of reasons why you might be failing to duplicate actual cam lift with your measurement. Blake | ||
| Sem1 |
Hello again! Not to rush anyone, but the primary and cam covers I am asking about are for sale on ebay and the auctions are ending in a few hours. :-) So, if anyone knows that 2001 Sportster covers cannot be used on an S1W, please let me know, and I will refrain from bidding. On the other hand, if you are looking for 2001 Sportster covers yourself, there is still a nice pair for sale on ebay. :-) Thanks, Semi | ||
| Blake |
Sem1: I don't know for sure, sorry. I can't see why not though. If Buell covers were special, surely they would have done away with the useless portion next to the tranny that so many of us would like to have removed a' al XB9R and Blast. Give your local dealer a call to doublecheck part numbers. Good luck, Blake | ||
| Tims |
The dial indicator is mounted over the lifter bore. Measuring cam lifter travel. A few thou either way and I wouldnt worry but .010" seems too much. As I say, the cams are new and my original cams are in good condition The dial indicator is good quality and true to the lifter bores. My lifters are the originals, good condition and not sticking in the bores. All max lift measurements are out by the same amount | ||
| Blake |
What you are seeing could be the effect of elasticity in the hydraulic lifter and the cams and cam bearings. The springs put quite a load on the lifters. That load will cause compression and flexure in the valvetrain and cam assy. Most of the ten thou you are seeing may be due to the hydraulic lifters. Does the reading improve if you spin the engine faster, like when using the starter? | ||
| Rocketman |
To fully understand this you need to read Denish's V-Twin Tuners Handbook vol 1, but I'd say you haven't a problem. Rocket in England | ||
| Sem1 |
Blake: Thank you for your response. Decided to take the risk and ended up buying the cam cover. Now planning to cut it. Cheers, Semi | ||
| Tims |
Blake, I undertand the elasticity properties of components due to force, but in this case there are no pushrods or top end, just a dial indicator mounted over the lifter bore and the cams mounted in the case with the cover bolted up. I'm measuring lift at the cam, not lift at the valve. Thanks Tim | ||
| Tims |
Nearly forgot Standard Buell lifters are fitted also Tim | ||
| Blake |
Must be the coreolus effect then. Sorry, I have no idea. Rocket seems to know something about the phenomenon though. But he want's us to read a book to find out the answer. phhht. | ||
| Blake |
So you are measuring off the lifter, not the cam? But the pushrods are not installed. Hmmm, I'm still at a loss to splain the phenomenon you are seeing. | ||
| Axtell |
it is really pretty common--the cams can be plain old wrong or what we see more often is that the tappet hole in the case are not properly positioned over the cam.(or a combination of both) In the whole scheme of things the total lift isn't as important as the timing of the the events so I would look at the opening and closing timing and see how close they are.--Ron | ||
| Rocketman |
Blake : but I'd say you haven't a problem. Seemed simpler Rocket in England | ||
| Tims |
The N6 cams have been checked for lift and are OK. Lifter bore alignment did cross my mind. I've checked the timing figures for the standard S1 cams and they worked out well. Need to recheck the N6s as the figures were out a bit. I guess there is no easy method to check lifter to cam alignment?? | ||
| Roc |
On the Thunderstorm heads - does oil enter the holes for the engine mount? I am certain that it does not on my '97 heads but not sure on the t-storms. Thank you | ||
| Rick_A |
I devised a method to get new aftermarket (in this case Cometic) rubber rockerbox gaskets to stay where they belong during assembly. Carefully stretch them to the size they should've been, and if it's still too warped to stay put, put a little assembly lube on the underside...just enough to make them stick in place. The assembly lube gets spat out as soon as you start 'er up, and after that everything works perfectly. | ||
| Bigun283 |
Question for all you buellers: I have a 98 s1 white lightning. I just ordered the lightning component cams, but now that i looked at the buell site I think these might be stock in my bike. Anyone know for sure? | ||
| Rippin |
Bigun, I'm pretty sure they are the same. Where did you order them from. Any dealer should have let ya know first off! Ryan | ||
| Blake |
Yep, you just ordered a set of stock cams for your S1W. | ||
| Sarodude |
Curiousity... If you somehow created a magical, mystical, not limited to 7.5K RPM valvetrain, how well would the current 1203 (and 984) bottom end handle it? What about the shake associated with spinning a 45 deg twin at 9K, 10K, 11K RPM? Just curious... -Saro | ||
| Aaron |
People are doing it. Hell, people are spinning them 9,000. But they use heavy duty lower end pieces. | ||
| Dynodave |
Sarodude...At 7000 RPM the PISTON SPEED is equivalent to that of the metric inlines running at over 14000 RPM; THEIR strokes are less than 2"!!! (ours is nearly 4"!!!) Not only that, but the X Engine crank shaft uses an archaic multi-piece design as opposed to the metric's one piece forgings. So... you can run at 9000 in a short race, but don't expect any engine life like if you want to run it on the street. If ya want more power, punch out the bore and/or hog the heads out, but don't try to run for prolonged periods over 6500-7000 RPM!!! | ||
| Aaron |
The 984 has a 3-1/8" stroke. Power peak is claimed to be at 7500, not sure what the rev limit is. I know someone who built a 3-1/8 stroke motor and he's twisting it 9200. It's a race motor of course. | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Me again, A few months back I asked a question, but no one answered the question specifically. I know there were a few interested in knowing the answer too, so I'll try again. Where do you think horsepower and torque gains will start to substantially impact the engines reliability on a streetable Buell? There must be a delta there somewhere. I’d sure like to know approximately what it is. I'm not interested in a budget build motor either. That's not what my question is all about. There must be a point where the dollars thrown into the engine simply aren't worth the reliability issues caused by the modifications. I realize there are quite a few vairables in the equation like a balanced engine, the oiling system and so forth. But anyone building an engine would do all of the obvious modifications too. Sincerely, -JW:>) | ||
| Aaron |
Jim, I guess I just don't view that question as being answerable, or at least not specific enough to be able to take a shot at an answer. Are you talking about the absolute biggest motor you can squeeze into a Buell chassis using the absolute best parts? Heavy duty cases? Heavy lower end pieces? Big bore? Big stroke? Something like the 117" Zipper's motor (if it could be made to fit)? Or bigger? Are you willing to chop up the frame? There has to be a limit somewhere. I mean, with enough work, we could put a big block chevy in a Buell and get 500 reliable hp. Every single part of our bikes is available in some kind of a heavy duty aftermarket version. The limits on those pieces tend to be way out there. But the wear may go way up on say, the pistons or cylinders. Does accelerated wear count as hurting reliability? Another problem with the question is that there's essentially an infinite number of different ways to put together an engine, in terms of bore/stroke configurations and components selected and clearances and so forth. Nobody has tried them all, nor has anyone really evaluated all of them with respect to longevity on the street. So you're just not going to find a definitive answer to your question. And if someone claimed to have it, it's inevitable that someone else will come up with a stronger combination at some point. |
