Author |
Message |
Rw5
| Posted on Tuesday, December 19, 2000 - 11:10 am: |
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Will a Sportster Clutch cable fit a Buell??? |
Srl
| Posted on Monday, February 12, 2001 - 01:51 pm: |
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Are there any tricks to getting the cable sealed at the case so I don't have oil running down the cable onto the chin spoiler? |
Li8ning
| Posted on Sunday, April 22, 2001 - 04:23 pm: |
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Does anyone know where to get the tools for clutch removal? |
Blake
| Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2001 - 12:25 pm: |
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Clutch Cable Adjustment/Replacement:
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Justcuz
| Posted on Monday, June 04, 2001 - 12:43 pm: |
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Blake, How do I get to see the clutch cable adjustment? Bill |
Hoser
| Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2001 - 12:08 pm: |
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rw5: The best repair is to replace the cable ,but it can be resealed. Remove the cable , clean off the oil , using silicone sealer and heat shrink you can reseal the the joint where the cable sleeve enters the threaded fitting . Jeff |
Ralph
| Posted on Sunday, June 24, 2001 - 11:34 pm: |
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I know the S1 and S3 use the same clutch cable as the Sportster. I'd feel pretty confident about the others. bighairyralph |
Hoser
| Posted on Monday, June 25, 2001 - 09:47 pm: |
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Ralph: Sorry , sportster cables do not fit S1's , S3'S , or M2's , the upper end uses a "banjo" style fitting on sportsters where the Buell "late" cables use a "barrel" style" cable end. In addition the size of the nipple used on the outer sleeve is larger on a sportster clutch cable. Sportster clutch cables do fit S2 models as they are equipped with 1" handlebars and H.D. switch gear and control hardware. Jeff |
Dart
| Posted on Monday, July 09, 2001 - 09:42 pm: |
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My dealer couldn't find the part #, or price of a clutch removal tool. I guess it's like a gear puller only it pulls the clutch instead. How often should I have to check the clutch plates for wear(thickness)? It might be that I'm just now(in the last 1000 miles riden) getting used to my M2 (4000 miles old Y2K M2) and realizing it's got NO midrange "get up an go". It sort of feels like my clutch is slipping at mid RPM range no matter what gear when I go near full-open throttle. I did have to adjust the clutch after I came back from Laconia Bike Week (the uphill traffic jams were killer) and at least now my clutch works. I adjusted the clutch as per service manual(my first adjustment I learned). Is this something that I should be looking into a new intake and exhaust and jet kit, or does it sound like I should be checking the clutch for wear? Just lately I've been getting on the gas alittle more, and noticed this. Over Winter, I'm going to replace the muffler and intake with a Forcewinder intake and (not sure what brand yet) exhaust cannister. I'm siding somewhat torwards Borla or White Bros. for exhaust. |
Raticalbuell
| Posted on Thursday, July 12, 2001 - 10:35 am: |
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I work for a cmpany by the name of Bandit Machine Works. We make high performance clutches for Big Twins and Sportsters. The stock clutch is fine for stock HP but if you start getting into 100 rear wheel HP plus you may want to consider Bandit as your next stop. We also have lock-ups for drag racing. www.banditmachineworks.com |
Blake
| Posted on Thursday, July 12, 2001 - 04:33 pm: |
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Dart: I'm reading that you cannot tell the difference between poor midrange and a slipping clutch. I STRONGLY suggest that you take your M2 to a good, reputable, qualified Buell servicing dealership for diagnosis. However, if determined to diagnose this yourself... If while tooling down the road in gear, you open the throttle and the bike revs quickly without accelerating, your clutch is slipping. Try this in 4th gear from a steady 60 mph. If the revs increase along with your speed, your clutch is not slipping. Take your M2 and have it dyno tuned by a pro. Before that, have the simple carb modifications listed on the carburation page performed. |
Dart
| Posted on Thursday, July 12, 2001 - 10:38 pm: |
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Blake, I've got #45 slow jet, 195 main jet, and N65C needle installed as of March 2001. I've noticed the problem only since I've gotten back from Bike Week in NH. I think all the long uphill traffic jams did my clutch in. When I got home, I adjusted the clutch as per service manual (still has problem, just not nearly as bad). When I'm at 60mph and open the throttle, the revs increase but bike is sluggish to pick up speed. |
Blake
| Posted on Friday, July 13, 2001 - 12:11 am: |
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R u sure your clutch cable has adequate freeplay and lubrication? |
Dart
| Posted on Friday, July 13, 2001 - 10:28 pm: |
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I haven't lubricated the cable since I got the bike (March 2000), but I've only got 4000 miles on it. The clutch lever has about 2 millimeters of freeplay. |
Blake
| Posted on Saturday, July 14, 2001 - 12:53 am: |
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If your 2mm of clutch freeplay is, as the service manual specifies, a measurement of the gap between the clutch cable end ferrule and the cluth lever bracket, then you are okay. If that 2mm of freeplay is at the end of your lever, your clutch is WAY to tight. In either cas you REALLY ought to lube your cables. I've found that a good aerosol white lithium grease significantly outlasts the name brand cable lubricants. You'll need a cable lubing tool (a little sealing clamp with a hole for the aerosol lube's spray extension tube). Takes about 5 minutes. You may want to teflon tape the cable adjustment joints to keep grease from exiting there. Do your throttle cables too while you are at it. They are tricky to reassemble, so take care to note the layout when you disassemble the throttle grip assy. Good luck, let us know what you find. |
Dart
| Posted on Sunday, July 15, 2001 - 01:48 am: |
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Blake, Thanks for the tip on using white lithium grease spray instead of cable lube. I just ordered a Daytona Boss exhaust and Sidewinder intake. I may order a new set of clutch plates, and clutch spring compressor from Tat. At least Tat' clutch spring compressor costs $40 (alot better than paying $150 (or so the dealer said)) |
Sportyeric
| Posted on Monday, July 16, 2001 - 01:24 am: |
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Who's "Tat"? At that price I want one too.! |
Ocbueller
| Posted on Monday, July 16, 2001 - 07:41 pm: |
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Sportyeric, To find Tat the proprietor of American Sport Bike, The Buellers Pal, can be found by clicking on the their logo in the left hand frame of the topics page. Tat's services are definitely recommeded. SteveH |
Blake
| Posted on Monday, July 16, 2001 - 08:13 pm: |
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Tat ownes and operates American Sport Bike, one of our sponsors. |
Court
| Posted on Monday, July 16, 2001 - 08:55 pm: |
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Sportyeric: Tat is the former Governor of California and formerly lectured on Primitive Eastern Cultures at the University of Bangladesh. In 1990, he participated in a "self realization" group and moved back to the United States to pursue a career selling Amway products to Amsoil distributors on Indian Lands in the Southwest. With spare time on his hands, and the experience he gained designing the AMC Pacer, Tat also supplemented his income repairing vintage Chevy Vegas and providing them to gifted young students as college commuter vehicles. Towards the end of the 90's "Tat" (his real name is Bob Herbert Sanders) felt the need to return to mankind the gifts that Allah had so benevolently bestowed upon him. He looked long and hard, seeking to find an oppressed group to come to the aid of. In George Harrison & Ravi Shankar style Tat donned sandals and returned to the East to seek counsel from a wise and learned elder. "Who", sayeth Tat, "are the most oppressed of the oppressed?" he queried the Priest as the scent of incense filled the air...."er, well here in India that'd be anyone wanting a decent burger". Tat replied, "But in my native land, oh high one, what group on that continent suffers greatly through no fault of their own?" As his High Holiness pondered a vision came to him..."In the USA?....America...gads, man why didn't you say so? That'd be Buell owners needing parts, advise and learned knowledge until the corporate giant Mother Ship can learn to be mobile, agile and hostile and learn from Erik" Having heard those words on high....Bob Herbert Sanders adopted the name "Tat" and rowed his boat with vigor to the shores of CA, where he moved his child and spouse to a deserted area (low overhead), built a massive 240,000SF warehouse (always has anything you want) and purchased a fleet of Piper Malibu's (you never wait) so that Buell owners should suffer no more as a result of needing parts. The annual BBQ he throws is a tribute to the inspiration that drove him to his vision. Each year Tat (as he is now known) ignites a bed of coals and as Buell owners eat, he dreams of the day the wise man stood in a like bed of coals and said "Go forth and insure parts are no longer a problem...shorty". And now you know........ Court |
Iggy
| Posted on Wednesday, August 15, 2001 - 07:30 pm: |
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bike jumps when starting in low gears. i've been having this intermittant problem where the bike will start off in first or after a down-shift and then after the clutch is fully released decide to jump forward. it seemed like a clutch problem but my mechanic opened the clutch up and said it looked fine. any ideas on what could be wrong. i really don't want this to happen while cornering hard or in the wet. thanx iggy |
Chuck
| Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2001 - 01:14 am: |
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Iggy, Fire your mechanic! Something must be wrong! Start with the easy stuff...be sure your clutch cable is well "lubed" and working smoothly...if so, remove and disassemble the "release" mechanism under the "derby" cover -- inspect for damage to the ball and ramp assembly...if you still don't find anything, remove the primary cover and inspect your clutch basket -- sometimes the outer "tabs" on the clutch plates can wear grooves into the basket -- when this happens, the plates can "bind" as they move "in and out"...if this turns out to be the cause, try to smooth out the grooves with a file...and of course, be sure that the clutch plates are all okay...the only way to really know, is to completely remove them all, from the basket. Lastly, ask for other opinions. I might be "in the weeds" |
Jmartz
| Posted on Thursday, August 16, 2001 - 12:52 pm: |
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Iggy: Remember that posting by Mr. Wilson where he postulated, supported by pictures, that the malfunction you are describing is caused by roughness in the "shifting dog" teeth? This is more than likely the problem in your transmission. Mine does exactly the same thing. Have the tips of theses teeth polished or replaced altogether and I bet the problem will be cured. jose |
Buellistic
| Posted on Tuesday, September 18, 2001 - 06:21 pm: |
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ATT: Buellers Put on a KAWASKI clutch lever Part# 46076-1165!! In buelling BUELLISTIC and/or Hardley-Harley |
Sybren
| Posted on Monday, October 01, 2001 - 02:23 pm: |
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I had some trouble with my X1 clutch cable. First it rubbed agains the fender so much the plastic cover wore down. The dealer replaced it but torqued the thing so much it broke the bolt, where it enters the engine. Backorder takes about 6 weeks (I'm from Amsterdam) so the broken cabel was replaced by a S1 clutch cabel. Now what I want to know: is there any difference between the S1 and the X1 cabel? The dealer says no but I doubt it. Sybren. |
Crazymike
| Posted on Saturday, December 08, 2001 - 10:33 pm: |
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'02, M2 oddities? At full left turn I can see the clutch cable getting pinched between the lower triple clamp and the frame. Its not enough to crush the cable or kink it, but it does cause the cable to make an s curve flex. This normal? |
Djkaplan
| Posted on Wednesday, January 02, 2002 - 03:15 am: |
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How many miles you guys getting before the clutch starts to slip? 10k and I got slippage. I've been awfully hard on it though. Not complaining, just curious. Any easy mods while I got the cover off? I guess I'll get the new primary tensioner; anything else? |
V2win
| Posted on Wednesday, January 02, 2002 - 10:25 am: |
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Does anyone here have experience with Baker's smooth shift kit? |
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