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Buell Forum » Knowledge Vault (tech, parts, apparel, & accessories topics) » Engine » Electrics: Starter, Ignition, Coil, Spark Plugs/Cables, ECM, "TPS Reset" » Archive through January 11, 2002 « Previous Next »

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Blake
Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2001 - 12:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Damion: Warm up your bike; run it at fast idle (~2000 rpm) and spray contact cleaner, WD40, or a fine mist of water around the intake seals (three orifices of the intake manifold... two cyls, one carb). A noticeable change in rpm, usually a drop, indicates a leak.
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Tonyinvabeach
Posted on Monday, October 08, 2001 - 03:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

To all,
Haven't been on for a while but the tach was not the problem with the ignition cutting out after all...or not all the problem. It seems the rotor/cam position sensor was getting hot and sending a bad signal to the ignition module. Another Buell part on order...sheesh. Has anybody heard when Buell was going to get their parts support up to speed? I still haven't received the tach they ordered and there is no telling how long the sensor will take. Is there someone I can call to help expedite this stuff? I commute on this thing all year and I haven't ridden in over a week!
v/r Tony
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Al_Lighton
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2001 - 09:50 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Tony,
If you aren't getting proper attention, you can call Buell customer service at 414-343-8400. John wil be able to confirm that the parts your dealer says are on order are, in fact, on order, and may be able to tell you approximately when they will ship. John has broken thru more than a couple parts delivery logjams for me. Although since I started relying on Modesto Buell for all my parts, I haven't needed to exercise that option.

My experience so far has been that most of my parts delivery problems were traceable back to how/if the dealer ordering it correctly, not the factory.

Al
Al
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Tonyinvabeach
Posted on Tuesday, October 09, 2001 - 04:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Al and Buell,
Many thanks to Al for the Buell customer service number and John at Buell customer service. Both parts are on their way...I guess that means I'm eating crow right now. Thanks again guys!!
v/r TD
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Bull
Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2001 - 10:44 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi Guys,
I need a quick answer... I'm looking for a race ignition and I've been offered a Screamin' Eagle performance ignition (part #32633-96) which is supposed to be the same as the Buell race ignition. Since I'm not an expert on this I would like somone to tell me if this is right. I've heard that the Buell race ignition is the best and I would probably regret bying the second best...

Thanks in advance/ Jojje
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V2win
Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2001 - 04:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bull,
Be carefull. You may get some preignition with the screamin eagle unit. They work well on stock low compression sportsters and pre 97 Buells. After 97, the compression went up and that requires a less aggressive advance.
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V2win
Posted on Wednesday, October 17, 2001 - 04:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here are the race module specs used on the carbed bikes.
  • 1000rpm = 20
  • 1250rpm = 21
  • 1500rpm = 21
  • 1750rpm = 23
  • 2000rpm = 24
  • 2500rpm = 26
  • 3000rpm = 28
  • 3500rpm = 32
  • 4000rpm = 35
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Oz666
Posted on Sunday, October 28, 2001 - 10:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Hi all,

To anyone interested, magnecor is running a "special" on ignition wires for Buells (and HD). Several sizes and colours are available.
I found my S3T wires had some HUGE rub marks (about 1/3 of the wire diameter missing) when I pulled the tank to install a tank mask. The bike had less than 8000 miles on it.
Go to

http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/main.htm

and click the "special offers" on the left. Regardless, the site has some valuable info...

Oz
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Road_Thing
Posted on Wednesday, November 07, 2001 - 08:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Here's a question for you ignition experts:

I bought an S2 with a Dyna shift light installed. The light works great at the high end, but it flickers on and off below 3000 RPM. Dyna's tech support (very helpful and prompt in responding to e-mail, btw) suggests that the problem could be due to a "multi-fire" ignition, like the MSD automotive units where each spark event is actually a series of sparks. Sounds logical to me.

Here's the question: Is the stock S2 ignition a "multi-fire" unit?

thanks,

r_t
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Jmartz
Posted on Thursday, November 08, 2001 - 08:15 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

R_T:

No es
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Road_Thing
Posted on Thursday, November 08, 2001 - 09:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Gracias, amigo. Sabe porque mi luz no trabaja?
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Jmartz
Posted on Thursday, November 08, 2001 - 01:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

R_T:

Do you mean the shift light?
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Sparky
Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2001 - 04:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm posting this here because I'm not sure what else it could be. 3 times now my S3 has quit running during moderate rain on the freeway. The first time I was running an ultra high performance Jacobs ignition system, the next time I was running only a Screaming Eagle coil and Jacobs wires, today the same coil but with SE wires.

I have always used dielectric grease on the wire's boots at the spark plugs & coil, but admit that I haven't kept the wires clean inside the boots. Perhaps it might have been shorting out through residual grime at the plugs terminals but I'm not sure. The tach didn't go goofy so I'm positive the coil was receiving ignition pulses properly.

When I got home today I tried to drown the ignition with spray from the garden hose, but that didn't faze it. Kept on running! Anybody have a similar problem?

BTW I ran the Jacobs unit on my S1 from Calif to Milwaukee & back through some extremely heavy rains and not a problem.

Sparky
96S1, 98S3
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Blake
Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2001 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Kickstand safety switch, bit me back in '98. Would it run okay in neutral, or with the clutch pulled in?
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Sparky
Posted on Thursday, November 29, 2001 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I thought it might be one of those but when that happened to my S1, I noticed that the tach went immediately to 0 when the engine died but then pulling in the clutch resumed ignition along with the rpm reading. Today the tach was fine but the ignition was cutting out. Not a complete shut off at first but intermittent ignition followed shortly by eventual flame out. Clutch no help.

I'm wondering if water can short out the ignition pulses to the coil. I noticed that the 2 coil wires are in a tubing sleeve about 4" from the coil and they form a slight U shaped loop where water did collect in the sleeve. Assuming the wire insulation is intact I would not think this is the problem. On the other hand...

So I cleaned up the coil terminals, installed fresh spark plugs & reinstalled the Jacobs wires which fit so snugly on the spark plugs, they recommend that you burp air of the boot out when installing them. Now I need to find another storm.

Thanks,
Sparky
96S1, 98S3
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Scotty
Posted on Tuesday, December 25, 2001 - 12:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I got Buell Pro-Series Platinum split plugs for X-mas. Can anyone tell me if they use the standard gap. If not what do I gap them at?.
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Racinswifty
Posted on Tuesday, December 25, 2001 - 02:59 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Don't gap platinum plugs. throw them in! Only gap regular plugs.
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Blake
Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2001 - 12:19 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

They come pre gapped. I wish they offered standard platinum plugs. The splitfire thing is ridiculous.
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Scotty
Posted on Wednesday, December 26, 2001 - 05:34 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ops, I gapped then to .040. Think that they came at .026 or something. Time to pull them back out of the bike.
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1998s1w
Posted on Thursday, January 03, 2002 - 09:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

i want to throw a fireball HI4E ignition on my bike is that possible?

1998 S1W
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Sparky
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 02:36 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I rode the S3 in the rain one more time after I inspected, cleaned & dielectric treated the ignition wires and... the bike stalled again in the same location on the freeway as the last time! This time though, as I was coasting along to a stop, I opened the gas cap momentarily and the engine fired right up. I applied mouth pressure/vacuum to the tank vent hose and it seemed to offer no resistance. I was hoping it would be blocked but, alas, it didn't seem to be. Perhaps the tank vent check valve was stuck enough to starve the float bowl and then I freed it with my experiment? I don't know for sure.

My thinking right now is that I don't have an ignition problem and it's more of a fuel delivery problem. For starters, I think I'll gut the tank vent valve. Any other suggestions?

Has anyone had a similar experience with their tank vents?

Sparky
96S1, 98S3
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Buelliedan
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 03:35 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Blake,

NGK has platinum plugs for our Buells. Part number is : DPR9EVX-9

Price is about $9 each.
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Henrik
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 08:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sparky: I realize that you've pretty much eliminated electrical issues as being the problem - however, should it turn out to be electrical, I heard good things about this stuff on the Long Distance Rider list. Several had opened and treated their Valentine One with it, and were now able to ride through torrential downpours w/o problems with their radar detector.

Hope you find the problem.

Henrik
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Sparky
Posted on Friday, January 04, 2002 - 11:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks, Henrik. Well hey, if the stuff works on distributor caps, I should try it on the entire coil as I've only treated the High Voltage terminal posts with dielectric so far.

I think I'll carry a spare spark plug in my pocket so that the next time it quits, I can tell if it has spark or not!

Sparky
96S1, 98S3
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Ara
Posted on Saturday, January 05, 2002 - 08:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sparky: Have you had the fuel tank vent recall done yet?
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Bluzm2
Posted on Sunday, January 06, 2002 - 01:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

OK Folks,
How do you pull the pins out of the Deutsch connector for the cam position sensor.
I'm trying to remove my cam cover and can't get the damn pins out!
I have removed the locking "pin" from the inside of the connector but am having problems getting the 3 pins out.

It's cold in the garage, I have 2 PC's on the fritz that need to be running today. It's snowing again.
I running very short on patience right now. Frustration factor very high. Figured I'd ask for advise before I broke something!

Thanks in advance.

Brad :(
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Sparky
Posted on Monday, January 07, 2002 - 02:09 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Pulled out the tank vent and lo and behold - it's broken. And it's the recalled item too. Supposedly if the tank is on its side the vent valve closes to prevent gas from coming out and when it's righted it should open. Mine stays closed when uprighted... sometimes. They should've left it simple. So I'm sure this has been the source of my mysterious shutdowns in the rain lately. Weird why it doesn't happen when dry.

I temporarily wired the valve open so I can ride until I get a new one. Thanks for all your inputs.

Sparky
96S1, 98S3
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Pmcburney
Posted on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 01:58 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Coming back from my favourite ride today, when my X1 starts to run
out of fuel... seems I forgot just how much fuel it uses when
pushing hard (D'oh!).

I make it (just) to coffee shop on the top of the mountain and
harangue all and sundry that are gathered (8 or 9 UJM riders) for
some fuel to get me to the nearest servo.

After some shenanigans with a TRX850 radiator overflow pipe and a
drink bottle, I get just enough fuel into the X1 to get me to where
I have to go, and then...
Bike starts and idles, but won't pull away...? ie. as soon as I
release the clutch, with the bike in gear, it just stops!
First thing I check is the side-stand cutout... but it seems OK,
then I check the clutch-lever switch, and it also seems to be
working as normal.

Anyhoo, I McGuyver'ed up a paper clip as a short in the cable to the
clutch lever switch, and it runs as it should. For now.

The $64,000 question now is, WTF is wrong!?
Is it fuel and/or the lack of related, or did the switch go out in
sympathy?


Any info about some such same experience greatly appreciated...
Paul
Brisbane, Australia
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Blake
Posted on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 12:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I think you have identified the problem. One of the two safety switches has a problem. Try shorting the kickstand switch after removing the clutch switch to isolate the problematic switch. Send the $64 to me in Texas. :)
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Road_Thing
Posted on Friday, January 11, 2002 - 06:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And send the $63,936 remainder to me!
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