| Author | Message | ||
     Doncasto |
Steveb: I have used it on my Motto Guzzi with some success although I did have to remove the petcocks after a while and clean off some Kreem residue that has closed off the flow through the valves. The in line filters kept the crud out of the carbs, and since the initial cleaning it has not happened again. Don | ||
| Bomber |
Steve . . .. I used Kreem (or it's grandaddy) on a number of steel tanks, 2 aluminum ones with no problem . . . . . . wasn't sure about the plasticy tanks we've got, tho . . . . . product reps ARE a good source of information, of course, but not as good as someone (like on this board?) who's tried it themselves . . . perhaps I'll go looking fro a gorrilla . . . . . as always, thanks, all | ||
| Bullitt |
I thought the first step when using Kreem was the strong acid stuff that cleaned and etched the metal in the tank, so the last part would stick. Do they make a formula that does away with this step? I never had good luck with the stuff anyway - once a year big hunks of it would start falling off inside the tank. or maybe I was trying to save tanks that were really too far gone. | ||
| Blake |
Kreem works GREAT on steel tanks IF you follow the instructions (remove ALL hardware including petcock, soapy wash, rinse, acid etch, neutralize, coat, drain, cure. I wouldn't use it in a plastic tank. I would doubt that it would have any beneficial effect on preventing the label bubbling problem anyway. It would probably only reduce fuel capacity. Bottom line, fagetaboudit. | ||
| Steveb |
Thanks all for your peachy Kreemy replies. Steveb | ||
| Jerome |
Can somebody tell me if a X1 windscreen is a direct bolt-on for a M2 Cyclone or if there is also a need to replace the dash board (I have the dual-dash from Buell on my Cyclone, with both speedo and tacho into a symetric aluminum plate) by the asymetric version of the X1 ? I'm also curious to hear comments about the added wind protection provided by the X1 windscreen compared to the M2 one. Just by eyes the X1 version seems a bit more protective and with still a reasonable surface. I don't want to put a big fairing, just to get a little bit more protection when cruising at 80-90 mph. | ||
| Peter |
Jerome, No, the dash will need to be changed too. | ||
| Bull |
All, Has anyone tried to fit an older (the narrow style) tailsection and seat on an M2'99. I'd prefer to do mods if any on the tailsection rather than the frame... If so, does anyone have a tailsection and seat to sell (I guess it's easier if the stuff's in Europe) Cheers and Merry Christmas Guys /Jojje | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
Hi all, I have a spare set of body work for my '97 M2. In the New Year I fancy having a go at painting it all. I plan to sand down the tank to get rid of the decals and then prime over the remains of the existing paint that is left. Anyone have any hints or comments about this? I am willing to learn, I aren't going to paint my "original" body work! Thanks Steve http://ukbeg.com steve@ukbeg.com | ||
| Rippin |
Steve, Be sure to use the proper anti-static plastic cleaner before you prime or anything. Just know from a couple do overs on bumpers of cars. Plastics can be a funnie thing to paint sometimes. A little extra goes a long ways. Ryan | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
Ryan, Is this something I need to get from a paints vendor then? I was intending to use an Alcohol based cleaner. Thanks for the help! Steve | ||
| Rippin |
Steve, Yes. I'm positive all major mfg. paint companies have them. PPG, Sikkens, Dupont, Valspar, Martin Seniour. All have some sort of cleaner. I'll check tomorrow at work and see what the Marting Seniour product is. I'll let ya know on my lunch break. Ryan | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
Cheers Ryan, that'll be very helpful, I'll make sure I get the right cleaner along with the primer and stuff. Regards Steve. | ||
| Rippin |
Steve, Sorry I couldn't get back. My system went down and just got it up again. Anyway if there is a NAPA store (they should carry Martin Senour products)available to you the aerosal can numbers are 6385 for the Plastic Cleaner/Antistatic prep and the plastic primer # is 6246. I hope this helps. Ryan | ||
| Steveshakeshaft |
Cheers Ryan, that is most helpful. All the best for a Happy and prosperous (Buellin') New Year! Regards Steve http://ukbeg.com steve@ukbeg.com | ||
| Jst |
Does anyone know if Buell/HD sells touch up paint for the "natural" color engine cases? I'm getting ready to do a cam cover trim and would like to match the color if possible. | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Okay it's time to fix the "road rash" that my packs (98 S3T) incurred during a high side last summer. I need to sand the pack lids down and have them re-painted, BUT I'm not at all certain of exactly HOW to do this. What grit of sandpaper should I start out with? Where should I end up? Also, does anyone have any suggestions on what I could use to fill the gouges our wonderful Wyoming Concrete left behind? TIA! | ||
| Blake |
DN: You really wanna do that yourself? Should be a REAL easy (read inexpensive) job for your local body shop. What will take you countless hours will take a pro only an hour or so total. | ||
| Road_Thing |
DN: Blake is, as usual, correct. Unless you already have compressed air and the necessary tools (sanders and spray guns) you'll be time and $$ ahead to have it done professionally. If you really want to be hands-on, find a friendly counter person at an auto paint supply shop and ask for their help. In my experience, they'll be more than happy to walk you through the process. I'd suggest Bondo for repairing the gouges, unless they're all the way through the lids (then they'd be holes, right?) Probably start with 80 grit on a jitterbug or random orbital sander. Take the repaired surface down to 120 before you start shooting primer-surfacer. Once it's primed and blocked out, take the primer down to 400 wet, then shoot a coat of sealer followed immediately by your color and clear coat. If you hold your mouth just right, you might not need to sand your final coat of clear, but I usually don't get that lucky. Start with 600 wet, finish with 1000 wet and rub the sh*it out of it until you're happy with the shine. Your bike is black, right? It's gotta be perfect. Plan on lots of rubbing... Then quit falling down so you won't have to do it over! r-t | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
The paint is going to be applied by a pro, a painter I am NOT. I was just gathering ideas on how I might prepare the surface BEFORE I bring it to my friendly paint applier.  You gave me exactly what I was looking for Road_Thing, the only thing that worries me is starting with 80 grit. Isn't that gonna gouge the crap out of the plastic? Letting a professional handle the whole job would be easier, but a LOT less fun... | ||
| Milehi |
DN, I don't know if this will help... But, when I melted holes in the bottom of the Givi Bags on my Bandit I purchased a two part Plastic fender repair kit. I mixed the stuff up and applied, waited 20 minutes and sanded it down to the proper shape and contours. It's held up quite well and was easy to work with. | ||
| Rapid49 |
DOES ANYBODY KNOW WHAT IT WOULD TAKE TO MODIFY A S1 TO ACCEPT A SEAT FROM A X1 OR A M2 ? | ||
| Blake |
Rapid49: Why not just add the twin tail made for an S1? It's about the same as a '97/'98 M2 seat from what I have seen. | ||
| Road_Thing |
DN: You can start with a finer grit if 80 seems too strong. Th finer grit will eventually take you to the same place, it just takes longer! r-t | ||
| Ducboy |
BULL the '97-'98 M-2 tailpiece and seat will bolt right on to your 1999 M-2 with no modifications. It will look even better if you also use the 1997 fuel tank. The only problem is the seat is much less comfortable and the fuel tank holds less. The Corbin seat for the 1997 is even worse so don't waste your money on that. (I have one for sale). if you want more info on the swap or the Corbin, email me off-line sboyd@nycap.rr.com | ||
| Rapid49 |
I have a 98 S1 that I would like to put a bigger seat on . Does anyone know where I can get a twintail or any info on how to install a seat from a X1 or M2. Also what modifications would be involved? I appreciate any input. I am also looking for info on a kit that hinges the windscreen for storage behind. I saw this on the web somewhere but now I cant' find it. Thanx! | ||
| Blake |
Get a twin tail from Sport Twin or your local dealer. It's a Buell factory accessory. | ||
| Mikej |
Corrosion prevention/protection: I know this was discussed some time back during the LSR What is available to protect bikes owned or rode in salty corrosive environments (like Wisconsin in the winter, Bonneville anytime, the Pacific NorthWest on the coast anytime, and elsewhere with a high salt/air content)? If you lived in such an environment, what would you do to your bike to protect it? This would entail air filters, exposed metals, wheel bearings, drive belts and/or chains, and so on. Just curious as I am starting to look longrange at living near a salted locale. Thanks for any replies. MikeJ. | ||
| Aaron |
I use Salt-Away. It's basically a soap that's supposedly designed to neutralize and remove salt. I coat the bikes and the underside of the truck and trailer before leaving, then wash it off with the same stuff again when I get back. Seems to work pretty good. There were a few nooks and crannys on the bike where I saw some corrosion setting in, but not bad. There's a competing product called Salt-X. I haven't tried it. AW | ||
| Dark_Ninja |
Anyone know what the factory paint code would be for a BLACK 1998 S3T? Is it the magic black listed about? And even further, does anyone know what this would translate to in a powder coat color? Also, does anyone have any intelligent questions that I could ask the shop that is going to do the powder coating work? I'm going to do my rims and swingarm if anyone is curious. |
