| Author | Message | ||
     Blake |
Rocket, LOL, actually you got it totally boofed my friend.  I knew what you meant, if only you weren't pissed, you'd have got it right.  But Ryan is primarily interested in the high speed cruising, so two pulleys and a few hundred $$ might serve him well. | ||
| Rippin |
Well actually your both right. I do not want to loose any low end because I do alot of two up riding and can definately use it. Plus you can see the group that I ride with all have fairly good power and don't let the ol BMER fool ya. He's had a good chunk done and he can ride like the wind. I guess age has to do with it Ed is 58. | ||
| Rippin |
Here we are a couple Saturdays ago getting ready for a little 350 miler up to New Diggins Wi.  | ||
| Rocketman |
Blake Someone appears to have hacked my password. You wouldn't know anything about that would you Nah, course not....... Anyways, you was right. AMERICAN pulleys !!!!!!!!! Rocket in England | ||
| Blake |
Rocket: No pw hacking here! Just the almighty power of a bored moderator. Get it, bored/board? Moderator? bahahahahah heh hmm.  See what I mean? | ||
| Iggy |
so the tranny is finally gonna get opened to look at my dogs. shop #1 refused to acknowledge my bikes problem. shop #2 will never get my business, so shop #3 has it and things currently seem ok. will be interesting to see when the bike returns to me. i should've spent the ext warr money on tools and done the work mysef just venting iG | ||
| Blake |
iG: What is the problem? | ||
| Iggy |
i've got the shifting dog/slip outta low gear prob or at least that what it seems like. i'd love to be back on that bike (with a good tranny). it's a lot more fun when you aren't worried about losing power in a turn at 30 and then getting it all right back. also it's really nice out today - 74 and sunny. but i've still got my old 82 kz1100, so life isn't totally bumming. iG | ||
| V2win |
Does anyone here have experience with Baker's smooth shift kit? | ||
| Aaron |
Yes. There's a discussion about it above. | ||
| Aaron |
oops, that post archived it. | ||
| Henrik |
Tranny upgrades: well it's not in the cards for me to go with a Baker 6-speed, so I was thinking of installing the Baker Smooth Shift kit (possibly the reverse model) along with the Y2K 2nd gear and possibly the late model shift detent plate. Any comments for or against that upgrade? Now, I'm a decent shade tree mechanic and have most of the necessary tools. But I have never been that far into the motor. Is this a project better left for the experts - in other words, what are my odds of messing things up? Thanks Henrik | ||
| Aaron |
It's simple. Don't even hesitate. | ||
| Al_Lighton |
Yea, Henrik, even *I* did it, and I'm an average shadetree mechanic at best. It wasn't hard at all. A couple big sockets, an impact wrench, a pair of retaining ring expansion pliers, and something to lock up the primary chain are the only "special" tools. I think the only risk you have of messing things up is if you don't degrease the threads for the nut on on the main shaft and the clutch and don't loctite them. You DON'T want those coming loose. It's a very straightforward job. If you follow the manual step by step, it will have you do a couple things you don't need to. One was pulling the drive pully on the right side of the bike, the other was removing a shaft off the trap door. Or at least that was true in my S1W manual. My false neutrals that I was having with the kit have decreased somewhat. I'm not sure if my shifting technique adapted to the new shifter, or if I just had less assembly lube than required and it just took some time to get primary oil into all the right nooks and crannies. In either case, I'm quite happy with the smooth shift kit. When I get on my wifes S3, shifting is SO much more work. The S1W is like butter.... Al | ||
| Jmartz |
Henrik: I agree the project is simple. Once the primary guts are out the "cassette" pulls out leaving behind 1/2 of the 5th set. The newer taller (lower numerical ratio) 2nd gear is a great choice. The transmission is clunky in general because it has no synchronizers. The speed of the gears seems to aid in the transion from one to another. In earlier models 2nd to 3rd is the clunkiest. With the new 2nd gear, 1st to 2nd becomes the clunkiest which is a better place for a shitty transition since unless you come to a full stop you won't doing much of while riding. Don't have any experience with the Baker drum parts but you could try this: Inspect you drum and carefullly grind down with a Dremel any high spots on the apexes. Make sure the pins rotate freely and the forks slide smoothly. That is as good as its going to get. Jose | ||
| Bushmasta |
I have 00 S3. Does anyone else get that pretty load clunk when putting the there bike in 1st? It is a pretty harsh clunk, sometimes if i don't apply firm quick pressure i get a series of clicks before it engages into 1st and the clunk. I mainly ride w/ rice burners who think i might have a transmission problem. It seems to shift alright just that load clunk or the series of clinking. If apply quick firm pressure all i get is that audible clunk. Not sure if this is normal. Any ideas? thanks for your help. | ||
| S320002 |
Bush, The clunk sounds like hell but is normal. Quick firm pressure is the way to go. | ||
| Djkaplan |
Hell, you've got a good transmission if that's all you're complaining about. Pull the clutch in and give the throttle a couple to quick blips. The longer you hold the clutch in the less clunk you will get when you drop into first. It's probably not good for the tranny, but slight pressure on the shifter (not enough to shift) with the clutch in before you actually toe the bike into gear practically guarantees no clunk on my bike. Some of the earlier Buells I have seen clunk VERY loudly when dropped into first. The shift from first to second is atrocious on my bike (00 M2). Second to third isn't as bad and the last two shifts are like butter. I have a feeling I'm going to be Sportster transmission experienced in the near future. | ||
| Blake |
Bushy expert: I assume you are talking about shifting from neutral to 1st gear while at a stop. If so I'd say this is normal for most Buells, but it can be almost entirely mitigated simply by blipping the throttle just prior to shifting from neutral to 1st gear just like you should also be doing when downshifting into a corner. Some other factors to consider... Ensure that your idle is not above the minimum specified (950 for carbed bikes, 1050? for fuellies), and that your clutch is properly adjusted. You should only have a slight amount of play in your clutch lever, around 1/4" at the tip of the lever, or between 1/16" and 1/8" between cable ferrule and lever assembly. Check to ensure your tranny is not overfilled with oil. Also, the clunk is usually much worse when your tranny is cold. Try the throttle blip/shift technique, check/adjust all the above then let us know if your clunk is still there. Blake | ||
| Ara |
Bush: My '97 S3 does it, too. (Actually it's a '98 motor in a '97 frame, but that's another story.) It's much worse when it's cold, and absolutely startling on the rare occasions when I ride without ear plugs. My bike is completely healthy in every respect, clutch is adjusted properly, and slightly less than a quart of Sport Trans is in the primary. Must be a common problem. Blake & DJ: Thanks for the throttle-blip trick. I'll try it! As long as we're "there", is there somthing significantly better than Sport Trans? Russ | ||
| Djkaplan |
I'm going to try Redline Shockproof Heavy if I can ever find it. | ||
| Pilk |
My X1 seems to like Mobile 1, it seems to shift smoother since I switched. It could just be that my tranny is just getting broken in also. Pilk | ||
| Ara |
Pilk: I've never seen a Mobil 1 product for manual transmissions. What's it called on the lable? Does it come in various weights/viscosities? I've been searching for a Sport Trans replacement for years! I'm sold on Mobil 1 15w-50 in the engine. The prospect of an equally good product for the transmission has me all giddy! ;-) Russ | ||
| Bushmasta |
thanks Blake and others. yes, it is worse when the bike is cold, but the putting of the throttle prior to the shift does help. Thanks, just wanted to ensure it was normal, ride safe. | ||
| Buelliedan |
Ara, Your primary uses gear lube. Any good synthetic gear lube(Mobil 1,Redline Amsoil) will work great in our Buells. 75w90 seems to be a good choic of viscosity. | ||
| Pilk |
Mobile 1 gear lube available at wally word. 75w90. Pilk | ||
| Blake |
How does HD/Buell get away with not specifying a grade for tranny lube. As I understand it, by requiring the sole use of Sport Trans fluid, HD/Buell if pressed would need to provide Sport Trans free of charge. Anyone know for sure about that? Blake | ||
| Mikej |
I'll have to check, but I'm fairly certain that I read in the service or owners manual about recommended viscosity of gear lube for the tranny/primary. | ||
| Blake |
Mike: Actually they say just the opposite. My owners manuals and service manual all say to "Use only SPORT-TRANS FLUID (Part No. 98854-96 quart size or Part No. 98855-96 gallon size)." From page 1-6 of the '99/'00 Cyclone M2 Service Manual. I recognize that this is a HUGE money issue for HD, just like their engine oil. Somehow HD had to concede giving up the engine lube specifications, why not the tranny? Any consumer law advocates out there? If I could find a copy of the supposed law, applicable in Texas, that requires manufacturers to provide at no cost any exclusive maintenance item/material that they dictate as required to uphold warranty, I'd be tempted to ride on over to my dealer and ask for my free two quarts of Sport-Trans for this week's scheduled maintenance activities. Blake | ||
| Mikej |
Thanks Blake. I claim fuzzy_memory_itis due to a cold/flu/virus I'm fighting as the reason for my brain-fade. I'd say brain-fart, but I'm at work and they don't like that here. I wonder if I can get new tires from H-D/Buell as well, or are they not as specific on those as they are with the SportTrans lube. |
