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Seeeu911
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 02:33 pm: |
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Seeeu911
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 02:35 pm: |
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Seeeu911
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 02:40 pm: |
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Clamps: a pain the arse. I went with the Buell factory slip mount in the front held by a stainless screw clamp. Simple and easy. To adress the concern raised by Al and pole vaulting I had both the header and the can sized to a very very tight fit at a local muffler shop then I drilled a 3/8 hole to secure can to header. ( after test fitting of course). I used exhaust sealant and for over kill a huge 2.5" x 4" stainless clamp. the rear is standard issue sinlge clamp. : |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 02:43 pm: |
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Seeeu911
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 02:45 pm: |
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: A view from the underside. From the top you really have to look to see. |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 02:46 pm: |
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Seeeu911
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 02:48 pm: |
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Seeeu911
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 02:50 pm: |
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but wait..there's more: my dog who kept me company. : |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 03:07 pm: |
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A summary: my goal was to duplicate the factory race pipe and can setup with hp and torque to match. Price a major factor. ( I need to save money for dancers at the sacborg meet in the middle hosted by Lurch in April ) The original Daytona Boss is a great sound. Smooth and polished not brassy sounding. For a stock pipe it works better and generates more power than most. (see Battle2Win) Downside is the clamp set up and the install. Loki is the only one who ever got it right. I've broken 2 front and 1 rear clamps. I wanted the D&D but do not like the look or price frankly. I re read all the posts on exhausts and took Aaron’s advice on careful installation with every thing in sync. So far 50 miles no rattles or looseness. I used new clamps, new retainer rings, nuts and gaskets. Plus sealant and locktite. This pipe by stainless specialties is very very nice. Very heavy gauge stainless steel and quality build. I just love the sound! NOT too loud. Noticeable more dB at idle, but deeper a true bass. Wonderful. The Dyno run will be the test for me. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 06:24 pm: |
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Don, That looks GREAT! Nice job. I'll bet they sell a few more very shortly. BTW, What you going to do with the "old" Boss? (hint, hint) Brad |
Spike
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 09:10 pm: |
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Don, _Very_ impressive. As soon as I locate a cheap used header I'll be giving stainless specialties a call. Be sure to post the results of the dyno runs. Spike '99 Cyclone |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 11:03 pm: |
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Thanks Brad and Mike for the kind words. Did not get to do a Dyno run today. Had to get dressed up for the company xmas party with the wife. I'll get the Dyno results later during the week. Also, while I was researching the welding on the cracked race header, I found a shop in Orlando who makes custom exhaust mufflers. In showing what I need welded, we got to talking and the shop guy was genuinely surprised at the high $ Buell gets for the race pipe. He told me that if I did not like the welding/repair result that he would make a stainless header up from scratch for me. Duplicating the basic factory race pipe set up. He quoted off the cuff of $225 or so. Any interest ? I'll get his info and post it here. |
Loki
| Posted on Saturday, December 15, 2001 - 11:18 pm: |
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Don, It's the really big rabbits foot I carry. That and the buddist monk I got on retainer.... Pop the info up on the shop anyway. Loki |
Peter
| Posted on Sunday, December 16, 2001 - 04:57 pm: |
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New style IDS Supertrapp with updated exhaust hanger on 2-1/2" headers. I normally check the exhaust nuts each day, but I got lazy and hadn't done it for a few weeks...... PPiA |
Blake
| Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 01:00 am: |
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Donn: Hey man! Thanks for such a thorough and interesting article. Would it help if they lengthened the inlet of the muffler? Seems like a longer overlap between header and inlet would give the front connection area more integrity. |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 04:50 am: |
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Peter:, ouch. Well it looks like the repiar is professional grade work, drill jig and all. By the way your head looks clean, very light deposits and nice color on the valves. Blake, Thanks for the feed back. Too much information ? sorry so long. Stainless and I chose the inlet length based on a measurment of the header and the area that was sized by the factory for the slip on. See picture below. Anyone know the inlet length of the Race Header ? : Blake I think that your question is a good point. Currently 2.5" but perhaps 3" would be better. When sliped together there is no free play or slip. I used the screw because I hated pole vaulting in gym class and figured I'd like it even less on the bike. |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 05:00 am: |
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Last picture, I promise. Here is the inlet of the new can compared to the Daytona Boss. I asked that the new inlet not be slotted for clamping, because I'd be using a screw and band clamp. The boss inlet is 2.5" length also. : |
S2carl
| Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 12:16 pm: |
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Seeeu911, I'd be very interested in the Orlando shops race header for that price. If they do make them, see if they can make the flare at the exhaust port ends more like the stock flare, not like the race header flare. I hear that the race header flare make it more difficult to get a good seal that the stock header flare. Also, great work on the muffler. Looks great. Carl |
Spike
| Posted on Monday, December 17, 2001 - 07:03 pm: |
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Peter, Would you say the IDS caused the broken exhaust stud? I was hoping to order mine in the next week or so. Spike '99 Cyclone |
Peter
| Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2001 - 04:23 am: |
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Spike, I doubt it very much. It's the most solid looking muffler that I've seen for them. Whenever I take my exhaust off (which I've done a lot of times since I bought it) I have had to check the tightness of the nuts until enough corrosion/gunk etc had formed in the threads to stop them loosening. For some reason (brain fade) I didn't do it after the first day when I fitted the IDS muffler. I blame myself for this one. I'm going to make the middle mount (Aaron's fix) for it. PPiA |
Bullitt
| Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2001 - 10:01 am: |
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Donn - I've got some time off this week and would really like to see your bike in person. Are you having it dynoed at Orl H-D? I've never had mine on a dyno and would like to get a pull before I change cams anyway. Kevin |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Tuesday, December 18, 2001 - 10:33 am: |
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Kevin, my last dyno at HD was free. Without one of thier weekend free dyno run parties they have the cost is $56.00 per hour. A little stiff. I was planning to use B&S Cycle on 441 in Orlando about 4 or 5 miles from Olando HD. $25.00 for 3 runs, no tuning. I was plannng on Thursday this week. Ping me off line and we can hook up. I'm a regular at Steak and Shake on Thursday night on 436/Aloma It is awesome. 300 bikes at times. Fun. http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cfcycle Also Central Fla Riders group has a great social crowd, and lots of organized sport bike rides every sunday am. They ar planning a North Fla track day just for the group. |
Josh
| Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2001 - 10:56 am: |
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Donn, Earlier you quoted a price of $189 for that muffler. Stainless just emailed me back with a price of $289. Was that a typo on your part? At that price I'd rather get the D&D for $25 more. Josh |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2001 - 04:27 pm: |
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Josh, I don't know. I am surprised. Please note, I don't work for Stainless. I really like them and thier products, thats it. Thier catalog #14 states $189.00 Lou told me $150, I paid $160.00 (cause I did not have exact change so WTF) I spoke to a potential customer of his today, at Lou's request and gave the guy my info on the can. I will call Lou and report back to you what he states. |
Josh
| Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2001 - 04:33 pm: |
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John Burger emailed me the price. At $189 I'd order today. At $160 I'd buy 2 ;) Thanks, Josh |
Bullitt
| Posted on Wednesday, December 19, 2001 - 10:22 pm: |
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Donn - you're not going to believe this - my bike died today. Drat. The ignition fuse pops - no idea why yet - anyway she definetely won't be making any dyno pulls tomorrow. If I'm lucky, I'll isolate and fix it in time to catch you up at S+S. I'd really like to hear what the custom exhaust setup sounds like. Kevin |
Seeeu911
| Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 10:49 am: |
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Kevin: sorry bout the bike. Hope you can make it to S&S tonight. call me 407 538 4489 anytime. All: I took a race header for a S1W to get final prcing for custom job. hope to get final price after one is completed next week. Anyone have a Race header for X-1 not currently using I could borrow ? Race Can price: Josh, I spoke to Lou this am. Price is $189.00 plus reassonable for shiping. exactly like the one in the pictures above. |
Ccryder
| Posted on Thursday, December 20, 2001 - 11:51 am: |
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Donn: DoOn't worry about the too many words or pictures, you have done a great job. Now for the acid test, dyno time. I would like to see one picture of the right side to show how thwy route around the various goodies. Next how about the race header for 99' and up model year, with/ without bung for 02 sensor (you could probably get by with bung only and just a plug for 02 challenged Buelligans). TIA Neil S. |
Bullitt
| Posted on Friday, December 21, 2001 - 12:18 am: |
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Just came from listening to Donn's custom exhaust setup. Wow. Two words - "Basso Profundo"! This is easily the best sounding Buell exhaust I have ever heard. Very deep sounding without any of that tinny resonance. BTW, Blake, you were right. That bike is a work of art. I was stunned. Kevin |
Josh
| Posted on Friday, December 21, 2001 - 10:16 am: |
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race muffler has a 2" inlet, the body is 13.5" long, and the diameter is about 4.4" (note that I believe it's slightly oval) Donn, it looks to me like your muffler isn't parallel to the ground? It looks like the rear is angled down a little. A trick of the light? or does the "z" bracket need to be shortened a little to raise that end up? Josh |