| Author | Message | ||
     Jmartz |
Tripper: Can you post that website? 4 valves, independent runners (2 carbs)? or not? Jose | ||
| Tripper |
www.maxtengines.com Thanx for the rundown Sam. Keep us posted, and return with a Dyno graph. We'd like to know the bad parts also if you have troubles to overcome. DaveT | ||
| Swon |
The website is: (maxtengines.com). The intake manifold is a dual carb plenum style. You can see through it. Both carbs bolt on to a common airbox. One carb on each side of the bike. Indiviual runners are not possible the ports are too big for that. I hope this helps explain the setup a little better. Sam | ||
| Swon |
As I mentioned there are issues with this project. When I got the heads I realized there was a problem and contacted various people including the manufacturer. I have never felt comfortable with that cast stock engine motor mount. We feel that the stock Buell cast aluminum front motor mount is the limiting factor. We believe that it can be overcome by simply not using it. We will replace it with a new billet mount. Also, we do not feel comfortable welding on the heads, Jim Feuling who designed the heads has been contacted about welding a block onto them and concurs. We could be wrong and I will freely admit it. The front motor mount bracket (built from steel by Max T Engines) will be modified with a shelf for the head to sit down on. It will also be tapped for 2 more bolts (7/16"). One up through the shelf and another will be drilled through the exhaust flange and the head will be tapped for it. This steel bracket bolts to the Buell front motor mount (that we will change)then through the exhaust flange into the head. I believe I will use a limiting strap as a safety precaution. If it breaks we were wrong and will start over and change the design back to the stock type mount and weld new blocks to the head. We believe the performance gains outweigh the setbacks but only time will tell. Sam | ||
| Dynodave |
I puchased the 4-Valve heads as soon as I found out about them on the Web. I costed the project out and I think that it will cost over $5000 to complete it, including the cost of the heads. And I am starting with an engine that has already had the lowers upgraded to S&S. Duncan at Yankee Enginuity wants to weld the mounts to the heads. Duncan has been setting these heads up for well over a decade, so welded mounts it will be. The way that the MaxT mount is cantilevered, it will snap the bolts. I ditched the alum/pot metal front mount in favor of a steel one about 40,000 miles ago. I have snapped at least 6 bolts on the front mounts; one on the steel mount, too. In all cases, except the steel, of course, the bolt failure also caused the mount to fail. On the steel mount, the bolt head had snapped off but the mount not only did not break but remained in place. Aircraft grade bolts solved the bolt failure problem, but the point is that I am very sensitive to front mount strength issues!!! | ||
| Mikej |
'95 S2 front engine mount isolator doohickey. I'm about to replace mine as I'm getting a "thunk" over some bumps occaisionally. I've got a new osolator/mount, and I've got a new long bolt, and I've got the S2 service manual, and I've got my '00 M2 service manual. I've read thru the S2 manual, but recall some changes about the "proper" procedure in the last year or so for changing the front mount. Also, the dealer wrench said the job would take about 2 hours of shop time if they did it, and that they can include a metal plate to help support or keep the mount from hitting the frame for those who do lots of hard-landing wheelies. So, should I just follow the S2 procedure in the service manual, should I pay for two hours of shop time, or can someone provide me with the current procedure (text or .pdf) to change out the front mount? Thanks. Right now I'm thinking it's just set the rear of the bike on a swingarm stand, put a scissor jack under the front shock mount to relieve the weight on the upper mount, loosen the long main mount bolt, remove the two flange bolts on the mount, remove the main long bolt, fish out the mount, snake in the new mount, monkey with the alignment and insert the new long bolt, reinstall the two flange bolts and torque them down, torque the main long bolt, remove the scissor jack, set the bike down off the swingarm stand, go for a test ride. But I could be wrong. I'm thinking I'll either attack this next weekend, or will visit the dealership and slurp their coffee while they slurp my wallet doing the work for me. Thanks. (Hope I haven't asked this already, I remember posting about the "thunking", but don't recall reading a followup on the proper procedure for replacing the mount/isolator.) MikeJ (In Wisconsin where the rains and Autumn have finally arrived.) | ||
| Jmartz |
Mike: There was something about the washer being circular in earlier models and it would hit the frame. JOSE | ||
| Blake |
Aaron: Re: Steel versus paper rockerbox gaskets... You (and others) were correct; as steel based gaskets are the official factory solution to leaky rockerboxes, I humbly concede. GULP. The crow goes down okay when smothered with left-over turkey gravy.  | ||
| Aaron |
That's okay ... never argue with me again and I'll forgive you  | ||
| Blake |
Hey! Don't make me come up there! (at least not until springtime)  | ||
| Tripper |
Had a buddy arrive at my house with leaky rocker box. We sent him directly to the dealer with instructions to be SURE they know about the steel gaskets. They did, put them on under warranty, and they pinched the gasket during the repair. They did not do a test ride, so the owner had oil all over his pants when he got home. Some things never change. | ||
| Rick_A |
Anybody use roller rockers in their engine? Are they worth the $350?? I'm just wondering 'cause I have my rocker boxes apart and am putting 'er back together next week. Now is the time...I'd like to know! | ||
| Pammy |
Roller rockers are great.They take the side load off of the valves/guides. Changing the lift and duration of the cams also changes the geometry of travel for the stock rockers. The rollers help with this situation as well. Anyway, I recommend them | ||
| Pammy |
I meant valves/guide seals...jeez if I only had a brain. | ||
| Rippin |
Pam, Which ones would you say are the best for the buck? I to am considering them since I'm changing cams finally. Andrews N-6. Thanks Ryan | ||
| Jmartz |
Rippin: I use the SEII cams they have a bit more lift than the N6's and are essentially the exhaust biased duration profile. I've had the Jims RR in my bike now over 30,000 miles. I really like then and they are 40g lighter than stock. j | ||
| Hulkss |
I just received my Nallin Racing 1250cc Big Bore Kit in the mail. If you have one, please drop me an e-mail. I would like to discuss a few things about the parts with someone who has them also. Thanks. Brad | ||
| Rick_A |
Hey Pammy, thanks. It's nice to actually get a reply every now and then.  Do all roller rockers require adjustable pushrods for installation? | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Brad wrote: I just received my Nallin Racing 1250cc Big Bore Kit in the mail. If you have one, please drop me an e-mail. I would like to discuss a few things about the parts with someone who has them also. Congrats' Brad, Why not discuss it all here? That way we can all learn at the same time and pace. Cheers, -JW:>) | ||
| Pammy |
Rippin, Andrews cams are great...they make many profiles for many applications. Rick, you don't have to use the adjustable pushrods but it would be a good idea...for the future if nothing else. Adaptable to many cam profiles. | ||
| Rick_A |
Nice, thanks! I was wondering 'cause the S&S rollers specify their use | ||
| Rempss |
Does anyone have the page in the parts manual; 1999 X1, but all will probably work, of the gearcase cover bolts they can scan & email? Four sizes & I don't want to remove them all to size up for black replacments. Thanks, Jeff - jeff0517@msn.com | ||
| Blake |
Brad: What Jim said! | ||
| Rippin |
Pammy, I have N-6's. Had them in my '99 M2. They seamed to work great. Andrews said if I send the #2 cams they would swap the pinion driven gears for free since they willnot work in my '01 M2. Thanks again Ryan | ||
| Hulkss |
OK, about the 1250 kit. I ordered the 1250 kit along with Stage 1 ported Thunderstorm heads. I got everything I ordered and the parts look great. The Hurricane pistons made by CP look fantastic. I was shipped standard piston rings by mistake. I had ordered a gapless top ring set. One area of concern - the oil drain holes in the cylinders do not line up with the holes in the gaskets (I assume the Cometic steel gaskets are correct). The holes are displaced outboard nearly half a diameter. If I had flat aluminum or copper gaskets (instead of the embossed steel ones) I guess I could file the end of the hole inboard a bit and make the hole in the gasket oblong to surround both the cylinder and crankcase passages. What do you think? I called Nallin Racing but nobody was there who could help on Friday. Brian should be back Monday. Here is a photo. Brad  | ||
| Rippin |
Brad, Ran into somewhat the same problem last winter(there's that word). Had James basegaskets when I put Wiesco in the '99. Took three different tries to get ones that fit properly. Ryan | ||
| Jim_Witt |
Brad asked: What do you think? Brad, I'm not the expert here, but I did ask you to bring this to an open discussion. So, in my opinion get the right gaskets. Plus I'd never file the aluminum or copper gaskets if that were the option. Since you have a digital camera, you should throughlly document your entire installation and post it on the BBS if Blake has no objection. S'later, -JW:>) | ||
| V2win |
Brad, Talk to Aaron. I seem to remember him saying that one could not use "pigtails" with AAC cylinders because the oil draing holes were slightly different. I could be wrong. Check with him. | ||
| Blake |
Objection?? Hell, please please post it here! | ||
| Aaron |
Brad ... sorry it took so long to respond, I've been busy lately ... me thinks you got the wrong gasket ... take a look ...  1250 kit cyl with supplied Cometic gasket  1250 kit cyl with stock gasket  1250 kit cyl with James steel gasket Looks like you got a stock cylinder gasket. The Cometic gaskets Brian sent to me with the 1250 kit do not have that raised lip that your has. And they fit the cyl fine. For some reason, these Millenium cyls have the drain hole in a different place from a stock cylinder. This prevents the use of pigtails with them. But I've had no trouble with the oil drain, apparently the holes match well enough to work. AW |
