| Author | Message | ||
     Mnscrounger |
My local shop (Simply Street Bikes) is hesitant to take a look at my bike for my rough running issue. After telling them what all I've done, they didn't think they had the resources or experience to get into the ECM. I've been through the manual (RR of head temp, fuel filter and pump, line pressure test,ECM test swap, coil test, compression test, manifold leak test...) and am still stumped. They recommend the dealership have a look. Whose the better shop, St. Paul or Wild Prairie? Are there any outstanding Buell techs working independently around town? I don't want a shop to just trow parts at it until it runs. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
The better shop? My garage. Seriously. What are the problems you are having? Describe with as much detail as you can. Brad | ||
| Mnscrounger |
Thanks for your interest. The bike starts and idles ok with the idle screw in a couple turns. With no load, the bike will rev fine but sounds like its got a weak spark, or a fouled plug. The coil tested ok, and I replaced the wires with no change. It goes down the road in the lower gears ok as long as I don't accelerate hard. At cruise it has more noise from the intake than usual (probably from needing the throttle opened up more) In fourth or fifth gear it has a definite stumble that prevents it from getting much above 3000 rpm. After getting it warm I tried disconnecting the front plug, then the rear, both ways affected the idle. (both cylinders are less than 40 deg. F. apart in temp, so I'm confident both are firing) the only error code is the fuel pump/low fuel pressure code 33. I replaced the pump and screen since I had it out to inspect anyway, and the screen was dirty, but the before and after pressure test was a solid 46-55 psi. It could be an injector issue, but both at the same time? Because its both cylinders, and not likely in the ECM (as proven in the swap), I suspect it is a sensor issue that is not showing up on the internal diagnostics. I'm thinking a tech with the knowledge to get into the ECM and see the parameters would be able to properly diagnose the problem. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
This could be a simple as the ETS (Engine Temp Sensor) On yours I think it's down in the chimney of the rear cylinder. When they go bad the bike does real weird things. Are you reading the codes with ECM Spy or something else? I'd be happy to plug it in and take a peek. Brad | ||
| Mnscrounger |
I gave up last week and took it in to St Paul HD. While I never would have found the actual problem, it is at least a consolation that my troubleshooting methods were correct, and no other issues were found on the Scanalyzer. It turns out my Supertrapp had a broken internal weld, causing the baffle to move back, and plug the outlet. The cam position sensor was on the borderline for spec, so while they had the bike, they replaced it and set the static timing. I had them temporarily kluge up a solution to the baffle issue, as I wasn't going to spend 575 on a new Supertrapp without first researching other options on Badweb. The bike runs like the beast I know and love once again. It must have been fate, because after I hung up with the shop, I logged in to Badweb to look for used exhausts as a temporary solution until I decided what to do. There, at the top of the parts thread, was a 2 hour old post from DINUNS for a brand new S3 Supertrapp for 250 bucks less. I just got it this morning, and it will probably be on within a week. Thanks for your interest and offer to help. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
Steve, I may be able to help you out with the broken Supertrapp. We can probably weld it up with no problem. I have a TIG and could do it if it's a repairable break. Besides, I like meeting other local Buell folks! BTW, SPHD can do good work depending on the tech that gets the job. Some bleed orange and black and won't touch a Buell. They are the bastard step children... Brad | ||
| Mnscrounger |
I may take you up on the offer. The classified thread I bought the muffler on had a post from Buell guru Al Lighton mentioning my new one may need a preemptive weld job before installation. I had planned to open up the old one to see what could be done anyway, so we may get together depending on whether we can get life's schedules coordinated, and how cheap you value your time. | ||
| Bluzm2 |
If you got the old style, you MUST get the weld reinforced. It WILL come apart. My riding buddy IAMike had it happen on his S3 when we were in Colorado back in the day. In fact Al was there too! Ask him about his ride down Mount Baker some time...  Brad |
