| Author | Message | ||
     Truk |
I have the service manual. I have read the service manual. I understand that the belt is delicate, so things must be done right to avoid damaging the belt. I also understand that in most cases if there was a better way they would have told us.... but just in case.... my question. Are there any tricks or shortcuts you have learned in which you are able to safely change the rear tire without going through the entire procedures listed in the service manual, and again, most importantly not risk damaging the bike or belt in any way? Thanks for your input | ||
| Lovematt |
Go SLOW. I take off the brake caliper and using a bungee cord to hold it up from the license plate bracket (undo little bolt holding hose onto swingarm). This may not be required but gives more room. Finally if you loosen all the little bolts holding the belt cover together to make it able to move around, that will make things easier. You don't need to take them off...just take out the screws so that the covers are loose and floppy. Use a rear stand (or jack it up), loosen the pinch bolt on right side, unscrew the rear axle about 15 turns so the belt loosens (axle is tapered inside), take off idler pulley bracket next, and then kind of work the wheel out. If the covers are loose and you go slow you should not have a problem. I have done this several times and I have the stock belt on the same bike/year as you. | ||
| Truk |
Thanks Matt | ||
| Chainsaw |
First time I changed the belt, removing the idler pulley was a PITA. I ended up taking a broom stick and tapping it off from the opposite side of the bike. i have since drilled the holes just a touch bigger. No more problem. Oh yeah, do not bend or twist the belt! | ||
| Whitetrashxb |
um, i didn't remove the caliper or idler pulley to remove the belt/rear wheel. | ||
| Lovematt |
I agree that it can be done without taking off the caliper or idler pulley...I just decided to do that to keep everything loose and easy as possible. That way there should not be any reason to use anything but fingertips to move things around if needed...not much chance of damage that way. | ||
| Whitetrashxb |
agreed  | ||
| Truk |
Again, thanks. This helped a lot | ||
| Truk |
Thanks, this helped a lot | ||
| Scitz |
I don't know if making the holes on your Idler pulley bigger is such a great idea. When you start to unscrew the rear axle it's tapered and will begin to relieve tension on the idler pulley so you and then remove it. I followed the manual for removing the rear wheel and it only took a little over 30 minutes. While I was doing it though I thought if I ever get stuck with a flat I just calling someone. | ||
| Bcordb3 |
I have read a lot of the "How to" threads. This is how the threads should be, meaning helpful, not demeaning. No egos involved, just good information. Good going! | ||
| Lovematt |
I wouldn't drill the holes any larger...I will tell you what I did though: I lightly sanded with 3000 grit sandpaper with a piece rolled up..maybe three back/forth movements to get any burrs off of there. Then I took a rag with Mothers Polish rolled up and polished it out a bit. This makes it "slide better"...big difference. Finally when removing the idler pulley I push up on the belt a bit from underneath to remove the pressure on the wheel...comes right out with a little jiggling. |
