| Author | Message | ||
     M1combat  |
I don't have a digital camera or I would have taken pics... The bike is an "R". I placed the techlusion just in front of the battery under the seat. I ran the FI and O2 wires (looking at the bike from standing behind it) to the left and around the lower section of the tail section. It runs out the left side of the "battery compartment" into the tail section bodywork right about where the trunk mechanism is at and forward. I loosened the left side of the body work and ran it out the left side of the body work right about where the other cables are. After that it goes under the left side of the suspension mount (in between the two supports on the left side and then to the throttle body. The O2 wire gets connected there and the injector wires continue through and drop down the right side of the TB. I removed the right side air scoop and plugged in the injector wires from the bottom. I'm waiting for my K&N to dry right now as I just cleaned it. I will now go put the bike back together and tune it  . Total install time so far has been about 70 minutes but that includes one cigarette and a filter cleaning. All in all a pretty simple install. I used two of the zip ties that they send due to cutting existing zip ties (one for the O2 and one to capture the injector wires to the upper portion of the fuel rail (I cut an original there as well)). I'll most likely use one more under the seat and the other just to the left of the suspension mount just to keep the TFI wires together. | ||
| Ingemar |
how is it ???  | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Has anybody tried the TFI with the race ECM,12 airbox and the DRUMMER? (XB9R) Have a TFI coming soon,and am looking for a starting point.......Thanks Charlie | ||
| M1combat |
Quite nice... I am very certain I am not pulling all of the potential out of the techlusion... After the first tune (of two so far) I had a bit of hesitation right at 3K (This was after performing standard AFV procedure) but only when I was close to 3K and rolled on the throttle. At 2500 it was great, at 3500 it was great. 4K-6K was "quite nice" . I brought her in and turned the acceleration pump down about 40 minutes and turned the RPM pot to ~3700 (The difference in thrust at 3750 and 4250 was noticeable in third while pulling through that range). That seemed to smooth out everything pretty good. 1500-3K has a bit more power. I would hazard a guess at about 2-4%... Just feelable, but it's there. From 2500 to 4500 is quite smooth but I can tell that it is ready to build a decent bit more power as it gets towards 4K. From 3500 to 6K is very nice and pulls a good deal harder. The whole band is quite smooth. Pulling out of a corner from ~2800 in second headed up a hill made me realize that the amount of power that has been added requires some more grip with the knees. I found myself actually using the bars just a bit and the front got a tad wiggly. That was the first time I really remember using my hand to actually hold on. I'm sure I'll get used to it . I used to get small roll on wheelies in first starting from about 3200-3500 RPM. Keep in mind I'm at 5000' Elev. Now from the same RPM's I can carry it about 1' off the ground until I need second. I can now get the front off the ground in second at about 4K w/o using any clutch at all. Just drop the throttle a little, roll it on quick and tug the bars. I can't wait to get a new pipe... I'll have it Dyno tuned at that point. | ||
| Trenchtractor  |
'but that includes one cigarette and a filter cleaning' But obviously not at the same time... | ||
| Tatsu |
I have that set up on a 12R Charlie and it so rocks at stock settings on the TFI. | ||
| Odie  |
M1, I have had my TFI on for some time now but finally got a chance to ride a good twisty road close by yesterday for the first time. I agree with you about powering out of the curves. Absolutely night and day! Very quickly out of the curves now. I'm lovin' it....Odie P.S. I still have some hesitation issues here and there but I'm slowly messing with them to get them smoothed out. | ||
| Odie |
By the way, I'm running at 6 3:30 8:30 and 6 o'clock positions. That was tuned on a dyno but with out A/F sniffer. See "Techlusion Dyno Run" thread....Odie | ||
| M1combat |
What RPM range do you figure six o'clock on the RPM pot corresponds to? I have mine at about 3:45 (I was aiming for about 3750 RPM's). I'm running at 2 on the third pot ATM, but I'm still running the stock exhaust. I'll turn number three up tomorrow and see what happens. I'm thinking if I go too far I'll end up with a bit of a stumble at about 4K-4200 and maybe be alright above that. I'm not sure how far too far is, but I'm thinking I won't get near six o'clock. | ||
| 12bolt  |
How much is the Techlusion? | ||
| Cataract2 |
Has anybody tried the TFI with the race ECM,12 airbox and the DRUMMER? (XB9R) Have a TFI coming soon,and am looking for a starting point.......Thanks Charlie I have, I'm using the settings Green 3, Yellow 6, Red, 4, RPM 7 I will tell you that I still need to fine tune it so give me time to play with it. I have the next two days off to mess around. | ||
| Odie |
12bolt, $248 from Dobeck......Odie | ||
| Odie |
M1, I quote from the Dobeck website: " RPM Switch Pot: All Harley and Metric V-Twins- Sets the RPM that the green and yellow fuel turns off and the red (main jet) turns on. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to about 70% of redline (for example a Harley-Davidson Roadking redline is 5800 RPM and 4000 is 70% of redline) which would be 4:00 o'clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching the green and yellow light to go out at the chosen RPM. | ||
| Odie |
12bolt, I found a place called cruisercustomizing.com that lists them for $169 with free shipping but they didn't list the 1045-ST for the Buells. You may want to call them and see if they can get it. That's a great price. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Cataract 2 Thanks for the reply,it sounds like a good place for me to start. Right now Im looking at to much white stuff to think about getting a bike out.Maybe I'll be able to work with it after Daytona (middle of march).Thanks again............Charlie | ||
| M1combat |
So that would be about 5:15 for a nine and about 4:45 for a twelve... Maybe I'll turn mine up to 4-1/4, but it seems to work very well the way it is. | ||
| Daves  |
10% off from me! Dave | ||
| M1combat |
I doubt they'll hsve the 1045ST for that price and they aren't a sponsor. BTW... Thanks Dave . | ||
| Blake |
Thank you M1! | ||
| Opto |
This was after performing standard AFV procedure. M1, do you have the Technoresearch tool to reset the AFV? I am really keen to find out if or how much the AFV changes after fitting the Techlusion...because it appears that it modifies the O2 sensor output to stop the check engine light coming on, or for other reasons, like keeping the AFV from shifting. Since running megasquirt, if the fuel mixture is a bit rich, I get an O2 code and check engine light because the ecm thinks the O2 sensor is having a fit. Interesting stuff, if I then switch the fuel injectors over to the ecm (on the run) the ecm continues to deliver fuel in open loop only. Anyway, I'm digressing, have fun tuning the bike. | ||
| Odie |
I doubt they would have it either as they are mostly metric cruiser type. DaveS would be your best deal I'm sure....Odie....just throwing info out there.... | ||
| 2k4xb12  |
To all the guys changing the value of the fourth (RPM) pot -- this is what I found on the Technoresearch site: the rpm is preset for the buell's. The fourth pot is used for closed loop voltage for the o2 sensor. It is designed to satisfy the ECU so that enrichment will not be defeated by the o2 sensor trying to lean out the mixture. (Message edited by 2k4xb12 on January 23, 2005) | ||
| M1combat |
Interesting... That's not what it says in my "manual" for the TFI. I'll have to send them some e-mail. | ||
| M1combat |
Opto - I do not have a techno-Research tool (yet). I meant running at about 3200 for ten minutes. | ||
| M1combat |
This was posted my an administrator on the techlusion support forum - "Green Fuel Pot: (functions like a fuel mixture screw on a carburetor) Adjusts for the motorcycle’s fuel requirements during light load operation, from idle through legal highway cruising speeds and steady throttle, at or below the rpm set by your rpm set pot. We have found that manufacturers have generally leaned out the fuel mixtures for emissions to a specific rpm (see below). To set this pot, make sure the motorcycle is up to a full operating temperature, then while in neutral, pick a fast idle that is not easy to hold a steady rpm (V-twins 1800-2200 rpm and multiple cylinders 2500-3000 rpm), hold the throttle at that spot and then slowly and evenly turn the green pot clockwise from its minimum setting, while listening to the exhaust sound. You should hear the exhaust sound change form an irregular and uneven sound to an even and smooth one. You may also see an increase in rpm as you increase fuel, and if you continue to increase fuel past this point to where the revs start to fall back away, then you can stop and start returning the pot screw back to a point half way between where the exhaust note first smoothed out and the point where the highest rpm starts to fall away. Yellow Fuel Pot: (functions like an accelerator pump) This fuel adjustment adds fuel into the fuel map whenever the throttle is opened rapidly. This pot needs to be adjusted from test riding, by performing brisk roll-ons in a specific gear, and by always starting at the exact same rpm. Try one clock position increases between roll-on tests until you can’t feel any more improvement, and then go back to the last setting that improvement was noticed. Some models won’t require as much fuel as others, so while increasing the yellow by one clock position increments if the motorcycle starts to decrease in throttle response, then turn the yellow back one and a half clock positions Red Fuel Pot: (functions like a main jet on a carburetor) This fuel adjustment adds fuel under large load conditions and is generally required when either air intake or quality exhaust system changes occur. This addition happens automatically using our unique load sensing technology, and similar to the road test procedure listed above in yellow fuel, test riding while increasing red fuel will find an optimum setting. RPM Switch Pot: All (except Harley/Metric V-twins) Sets the rpm that the green fuel turns off. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to 4:30 o’clock for 600cc and above multi cylinder sport bikes. Each clock position of this pot equates to about 1000 rpm’s, so 4,500 rpm’s would be half way between 4 and 5 o’clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green light to go out at the chosen rpm. All Harley and Metric V-twins Sets the rpm that the green and yellow fuel turns off and the red (main jet) turns on. This adjustment is achieved by setting the pot to about 70% of redline (for example a Harley-Davidson Roadking redline is 5800 rpm and 4000 is 70% of redline) which would be 4:00 o’clock. Verify this setting by revving the bike in neutral and watching for the green and yellow light to go out at the chosen rpm." I think I'm on the right track. I did start a thread on those forums though just to be certain and I'll post the results here. I think that 4:45 is the "correct" base setting for a 12, and 5:15 for a 9. | ||
| M1combat |
Judging from my understanding of how the TFI seems to work, I would say that the FIRST pot is more likely the one that attenuates the O2 sensor voltage... | ||
| 12bolt |
Thanks guys. Looks like I'll be saving up for a while! |
