| Author | Message | ||
     Robxb  |
I was wondering if anyone on here changed their entire exhaust system, can and headers. I'm putting the race kit on my 12r and trying to figure out how long the whole thing should take to do, including dropping the engine down to get to the back bolts of the header pipe. TY | ||
| BadS1  |
Rob if your doing the race kit you won't need remove your header you'll be using it.You should be able to do the whloe deal in a couple hours and then bring the bike to get a TPS reset. | ||
| Robxb |
I'm replacing my stock header with a ceramic coated one. That's why I said the entire exhaust. | ||
| Lpd22 |
Wouldnt it be easier to go in from under the seat, shock and fan to get to the headers? instead of dropping the engine down. I plan on taking my headers off to get them ceramic coated, but i would first try going through the shock and fan first. Just a suggestion. keep me posted on how it goes. | ||
| Robxb |
It's getting done by the dealership by my place. I want to look over all the wires and cables for any chaffing. I can go there and check it out while there doing it. Due to work being so busy I don't have the time to do it myself. | ||
| Newxb9er |
Ok, so for clarification, you're trying to see if they are charging you too much to swap the header, and install the can? Just to clarify! Let me know. I want to put the ceramics on, but wondering if I should do it or have the dealership do it! | ||
| Robxb |
bikes not done yet, it's still there.I'm just wondering what a reasonable time is, so when I go there I have a little background info. | ||
| Shawn_9r  |
robxb, Are you getting new a header? Or are you removing yours and sending it out? Considering selling the old one? Lazyme21 did it awhile back and posted a step by step (I don't think it was by the manual) but it worked for him. Look under "header removal" posted Aug 30 10:58pm. Shawn | ||
| Robxb |
I have the new one all ready. I have to send my stock one back to get my core charge of $200.00 back, unless you want it for that price ? | ||
| Shawn_9r |
Thank you for the offer... but I think I'll pass. I will just have to do without my bike for a couple weeks. Thanks again. Shawn | ||
| Robxb |
Shawn, found that post. thank you. but after reading that and a few others, it seems that the header bolts tend to loosen up. I wounder if it would be smart to double up the bolt if theres room an the stud ?? to prevent it from backing off ?? just an idea | ||
| Robxb |
btw cool paint job | ||
| Reepicheep  |
I was one of the ones originally mentioning double nutting exhaust header studs, and after conversations with Aaron, and experience on my own bikes, I now retract that recommendation. Once the tubers went to the new (read: good) front mount, the mysterious creeping header nuts stopped their wandering ways, and just stayed put. I did leave my Cyclone double nutted all the way until I traded it in, but not for the extra strength, it just made it *REALLY* easy to glance down there and see that two nuts were still there. With one nut, it was harder to see. With two nuts, the second nut was only on the stud by about half it's threads, so it worked like a canary in a coal mine to let me know bad things were afoot. | ||
| 2k4xb12  |
I have the new one all ready. I have to send my stock one back to get my core charge of $200.00 back, unless you want it for that price ? Isn't list only like $185? | ||
| Slaughter  |
Chiming in uninvited here... I ended up losing and breaking studs so often that I replaced them with ARP high strength studs, used high temperature self-locking nuts (had to do a minimum buy of 100 nuts so if anybody wants 4 - email me your address and I'll mail em free) - better than double nutting If you DO put in heli-coils, the studs can back out more easily than when screwed into the aluminum by the way Actually, if you just use a 1/4 drive u-jointed extension, you can reach ALL the rear nuts. Just check them each time you think of it depending on how often you're riding. DON'T overtorque. You don't need more than 10-ish ftxlb on the nuts. What seems to break the studs is one side loosening and then the opposite side stud breaks. I've actually safety-wired the studs on the racebike too - but may ditch that and just check to make sure they're not loosening at the beginning of each weekend. I've removed my pipes, drilled/tapped/helicoiled the top rear flange stud, re-mounted the exhaust all in about 4 hours. | ||
| Lpd22 |
Slaughter, Which way did you do it? removing the shock, fan, and o2 sensor or did you drop the engine? | ||
| Gsxr_is_gone |
Hi Slaughter I would like some of those nuts, in fact I would like about 20. Will be glade to pay you for them. Brant | ||
| Reepicheep |
Thanks for the real world datapoints Slaughter, that is very helpful. When mine broke, I just retapped the aluminum and put in a new stud and it worked ok, but I was always thinking I should have put in a heli-coil while I was in there. Sounds like you *really* solved the problem! | ||
| Jerseyguy  |
Slaughter - I did it like you did with a 1/4 inch U joint and extension. It was a pain but doable. The part I don't like is not being able to get my torque wrench on those nuts for a proper reading. The U joint is on a very extreme angle (especially on the lower rear nut) which will mess up the reading. I just used my mechanic's feel and kept it on the lighter side because I heard of snapped studs. I am a bit concerned about it loosening up with heat cycles. You can't even see that lower nut. I was not able to change the rear exhaust gasket either. If I had it to do again, I'd take the time to rotate the engine. | ||
| Slaughter |
Reepicheep, I tried to clean up the threads but being ham-handed, I buggered them up so badly I just went straight to helocoil the next time. I just got off the track today - first day of a 3 day weekend with practice tomorrow and racing Sunday - and the latest stud/nut job seems to be holding up so far. Those nuts are cheap - about $12 per hundred. I'll see if I can remember the name of the company selling them - they're nationwide... something like Fastenal (I'll get back on that) Any of you can email me using the following address and I'll send some of those nuts out - and for something like 11 cents each, it's just not worth exchanging money Any of you want some, get me your mailing address by email and early in the week, I'll mail some our. Really no biggie. qed2 at mindspring (dot) com | ||
| Robxb |
well, pipe is on and done. It was a total of 6 hours for the entire job newxb9er. It was done on wed and I picked it up last night. Too bad the weather was s%*##y and I took it straight home. (Message edited by robxb on January 15, 2005) | ||
| Newxb9er |
Thanks Rob. Did they charge you 6 complete hours? | ||
| Shawn_9r |
Robxb... new pic with it on yet? Shawn | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Rob, If the mechanic did it by the book, I don't think that's an outrageous time. | ||
| Robxb |
yes, the 6 hours was from start to finish including test ride. I'm at work now, so I'll post the pics later. Steve, I have the stock pipe at my place if you still want it. Also, William's got the charter in yesterday so we are now legit. | ||
| Robxb |
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| Robxb |
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| Robxb |
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| Odie  |
Robxb, if Steve doesn't want your stock pipe I'm interested!! What's your price?? Thanks, Odie | ||
| Robxb |
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| Robxb |
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| Robxb |
I'm sure he will, but if not your next in line. | ||
| Shawn_9r |
That sure looks sweet... | ||
| Odie |
Cool....thanks, Odie. | ||
| Robxb |
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| 2k4xb12 |
Robert -- how much do you want for it? I can't see spending more than list, so if you have a $200 deposit on it, you should probably send it back... Steve. | ||
| Robxb |
I was planning on it. The $200.00 was the core charge. |
