Author |
Message |
Hkwan
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 01:58 pm: |
|
Just want to get couple of pointers from you who have done it: 1) Do I need to put the bike on rear stand to keep the reservoir level so when I unscrew the two screws for the cover, the fluid doesn't come out right the way? Or should I just keep the bike on the side stand? 2) Should I have the handle bar turn all the way to the right to have easy access or just keep it straight (or even have it turned to the right to have the reservoir leveled better)? 3) I'm planning to extract the old fluid out of the reservoir and add new fluid to the top before bleeding. Good idea? 4) My brake lever is relatively mushy (comparing to the F4i's), shouldn't the XB's brake feel as solid as any other bike after the brake fluid bleed? 5) Welcome any other advice that you can throw my way. Thank you. |
Henrik
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 02:39 pm: |
|
Henry; I did a write-up on my brake bleeding method As per your other questions: 1) & 2) I can ususally get the reservoir (of the S2 and the SV) level with the bike on the side stand by turning the handlebars to where the reservoir lid is most level. But I prefer putting the bike on a rear stand. 3) see above link 4) I haven't tried bleeding the XB yet, but my brake lever on both SV and S2 are rock hard. There were at some point some rumbling in a mag review of the XB, about the XB front caliber having a bit of flex - don't know about that myself. If true, that could contribute to a "softer" feel. Don't think it would affect brake function much for street riding. Hope this helps Henrik |
Hkwan
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 03:14 pm: |
|
Thank you Henrik very much! Also, has anyone used this product - Speed Bleeder? http://www.speedbleeder.com/images/sbani.gif |
Captainplanet
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 04:29 pm: |
|
Henry, I've used those speed bleeders on cars. I like them. They basically let the air pump out but not get back in. Probably not necessary on a bike though since you can pretty much reach the bleeder easily. Couldn't hurt though. (Message edited by captainplanet on January 10, 2005) |
Lpowel02
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 04:55 pm: |
|
Henrik...great write up. I hadn't seen it before. Your method makes it sound pretty simple. |
Wyckedflesh
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 06:04 pm: |
|
It works very well for the XB as I have used his method. The #1 thing is to make sure you pull all the fittings and rewrap then with teflon tape. Works real well for the rear brake as well. |
Hkwan
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 06:24 pm: |
|
When re-tightening the fitting's, how much torque approximately should I apply on the fittings? I don't want to strip the suckers. |
Ben_jamminvfcc
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 06:36 pm: |
|
The speedbleeders are sweet 'cause then all you need to do is loosen them a 1/4 turn, and pump the lever whilst adding new fluid in till you're only left with new fluid and no bubbles. Much faster than the oldschool method. |
Hkwan
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 07:49 pm: |
|
Ben, do you know what the Part no. is for the Speed Bleeder? |
Henrik
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 08:57 am: |
|
I've tried the speed bleeders but went back to stock nipples. The speed bleeders prevent the back and forth pumping of brake fluid, that I find to be crucial to getting *all* the air out of the system. I'm probably a bit more ... persistent - yeah that's the word ... about brake bleeding, but the result to me is worth a bit of extra effort. Including a banjo bolt with a bleeder nipple on the master cylinder. Tightening the fitting? I go for just tight. Don't crank on them. I use a tiny box wrench to prevent going overboard. Although RRW recommended using an open ended wrench to prevent you from accidentally leaving the wrench hanging on the caliper. Henrik |
Henrik
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 09:25 am: |
|
Much faster than the old school method Whaddaya mean Old School? Young whipper snappper Unfortunately, pumping fluid from the top down, hoping that air trapped in said fluid will *not* float to the top - and stay there - can be an exercise in futility. I prefer to make gravity work for rather than against me With modern brake systems and steel braided lines, it is possible to achieve a rock hard brake lever. If you have any sponginess at all in your lever, there is likely still air in the system. Henrik (I realize that you by Old School may mean squeeze - loosen - tighten - release. Just funnin' with ya' ) |
Glitch
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 09:32 am: |
|
squeeze - loosen - tighten - release. Sounds like more fun to do it this way! |
Aldaytona
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 09:44 am: |
|
Most Important: Be sure to cover all the plastic pieces around the master cylinder, windshield too for those with the "R" models. You'll be glad you did! |
Hkwan
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 12:45 pm: |
|
So, I will take it that no one from here has used a Speedbleeder on a XB yet,huh.... |
Hkwan
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 01:47 pm: |
|
Henrik, you wouldn't remember the part no. on the Speedbleeder you've used, do you? Also, do you want to sell that to me? Just wondering... |
M1combat
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 02:15 pm: |
|
Wouldn't that be loosen - squeeze - tighten - release? |
Henrik
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 02:53 pm: |
|
Henry; it's awhile ago, so I don't know of a part number. I think I may have given them away. Sorry. M1; if you don't begin the sequence by squeezing lightly, you run the risk of sucking air back into the system when you loosen the bleeder nipple. Henrik |
M1combat
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 02:55 pm: |
|
Gotcha... Thanks . |
Hkwan
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 05:05 pm: |
|
Henrik, did you just called up Speedbleeder and they did the research for you or did you have to go through some research yourself before calling them, remember? Also, for everyone - have you tried this "trick" where you tie down the brake lever over night to get rid of the sponge feeling from your brake? I've done it on my other bike and have done it on the XB, it works. Basically you just have the brake lever tied down for a period of time and the air in the system would escape to the top of what not and the mushy feeling would be gone for a while... Many people have tried it and it works. |
Henrik
| Posted on Wednesday, January 12, 2005 - 09:21 am: |
|
I believe I bought directly from Speedbleeder. Can't remember the process of finding the right thread size?? Henrik |
Bomber
| Posted on Wednesday, January 12, 2005 - 02:31 pm: |
|
I use a velcro strip to tie dowen the lever overnight from time to time -- it DOES help for a bit, but, since the sponginess returns (at least in my case), (my BRAKES case ;-} ), I'm gonna uise a version of Henrik's procedure this winter after the rebuild -- I ain't even gonna ASK where a non-med pro can pick up the needed syringe, tho -- not these days (big grin) |
Ben_jamminvfcc
| Posted on Sunday, January 16, 2005 - 02:46 am: |
|
Anyone ever hooked up clear plastic tubing to the bleeder nipple and run the tubing into a an old sprayer(like on a windex bottle)? It's like...poor man's vacuum pump. I know a few people that completely remove their brake assembly and suspend it in the air, straightening out the lines, and allowing them to gravity bleed, that's effective but time consuming. Tapping the lines with a wrench periodically is useful, but squeeze, loosen, tighten(while still compressing the lever).....it's old school, but it works... I just find the wrench work tedious. |
Wyckedflesh
| Posted on Sunday, January 16, 2005 - 10:59 am: |
|
I ain't even gonna ASK where a non-med pro can pick up the needed syringe, tho -- not these days (big grin) BBQ aisle at Home Depot/Lowes...look for "Turkey Marinade Injector" |
Henrik
| Posted on Tuesday, January 18, 2005 - 08:35 am: |
|
"Turkey Marinade Injector" or ... http://www.midstateswoolgrowers.com/acatalog/Online_Catalog_Instruments_6.html Henrik |
|