Author |
Message |
Wells01
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 05:49 am: |
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Hi, Ive purchased some bar end indicators so I can remove the standard ones from my XB9S. I've realized that the will flash at twice the normal rate as there is only on bulb in the circuit. Can i put a resistor in the circuit to slow them back down, what value would it need to be. Regards David Wells |
U4euh
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 09:57 pm: |
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Did you remove the rear signals also?? |
Jabrien00
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 10:17 pm: |
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what would happen if it is flashing too fast would it damage anything inside the circuit? |
U4euh
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 11:03 pm: |
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I wouldn't think damage would be done as less wattage is being drawn. I am by far not a tech. just my thoughts. I know someone else with more knowledge will chime in soon. |
12bolt
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 11:13 pm: |
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If the reason your lights are flashing faster is because your new system uses one bulb instead of two (half the resistance) I would say you could use a resistor in series about the same resistance as one bulb. Without seeing the schematics of the circuit or having a lot more info I don't think I can answer that correctly. There are however a fews guys on here pretty keen on electronics so maybe someone will pipe up. |
1313
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 11:46 pm: |
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I know it is a different animal, but I did something similar with my V-Rod. I removed all 4 turn signals and installed the Kellermann bar end turn signals on it. I did not notice any change in the rate of flashing. And man, are those suckers BRIGHT! 1313 |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Monday, January 10, 2005 - 11:55 pm: |
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The flasher on the bike is a standard automotive style flasher that is designed to increase it's flash rate when a bulb has burned out, thus notifying the cager that he has a burned out bulb. It's a feature, not a bug, for automotive applications, but it's a pain in the butt for doing what you're doing as well as for converting to LED turn signals. James is close, but not quite correct. Your turn signals are in parallel, so having an open on one is the same as doubling the resistance that the flasher sees, not halving it. The overall current flowing goes down. See how a turn signal flasher works here, which will explain why lower current causes it to flash faster (less current=less heat) A resistor that simulates the bulb in the unused turn signal wires will restore the flash rate, but beware, there is much heat to be dissipated with this approach. The resistor is then in parallel, not series. For more than you ever wanted to know about flashers, see here There are other flashers available from the auto parts store that don't have the rate changing feature. I'm sure they aren't very expensive. Flashers have been built like the above for years, but solid state technology can do it better and cheaper, and doesn't need to be current dependent to control rate. Now, if you want to get fancy, we sell this cool little doo dad: See here Your turn signals won't flash at twice the rate, but it does much more than that (and should for the price). It does: 1) auto turn signal cancellation (Selectable time-outs are 15, 30, and 45 seconds. At the end of the selected time-out, the flashing stops). 2) Running light conversion-your turn signals can be on all the time when not flashing, with three selectable intensities 3) 4 way flasher- A true emergency flasher for when stopped on the side of the road 4) Brake override-you can hook it up so that application of the brake suspends the timeout function Al (Message edited by al_lighton on January 11, 2005) |
12bolt
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 12:13 am: |
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Al, thanks for the info and the great links. I didn't realize are flashers were so antiquated! I figured they would be using some sort of R/C circuit to do the flashing. Thanks again James |
Odie
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 12:14 am: |
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Wells01, when I put aftermarket signals (small, LED ones, front and rear) on my wifes Sporty I had to install a load equalizer due to the change from incandescent to LED. It was about $24 and everything worked fine. I bought mine from J.P. Cycles. Odie |
Stoobr2
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 11:46 am: |
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I fitted Kellermann micro1000 turn signals to my 9s and had the same problem. It was solved by fitting a Hella universal flasher unit 12v 10-200w. The wires in the XB's connector block needed de-pinning and re-arranging for it to fit (mounting bracket included) and work properly. Zodiac part number #237304 it states on the box. Hella part number 4 AZ 003 787-001. |
Odie
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 12:55 pm: |
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Al, how big is that signal minder dealie? Odie |
Cataract2
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 02:19 pm: |
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Was wondering if I replace mine with LED bulbs in the stock turn signals if I'll have the quick flash problem. |
Whitetrashxb
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 02:49 pm: |
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i replaced mine w/ some of those 'fake' LEDs, when i only changed out the first 2, the rapid flashing occured. After changing the rear 2 as well, the fuse blows every time i hit the flasher... still haven't figured out what the best solution would be.. james |
P0p0k0pf
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 03:33 pm: |
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Hey Al- I've been eyeing that light controller. What other components come in that kit? Is it a new left-hand switch assy. as well? I don't see what that controller box has to do w/ 7/8" bars... |
Davefl
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 03:54 pm: |
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I think the connection to 7/8"bars is that they all used the same turn signal flasher. the S2 had 1"bars and used Harley self canceling flashers. |
Bluefirebolt
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 04:45 pm: |
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I=U:R and R=U:I so42watts:12volt=3,5 R=U:I so 12:3,5 =3,4285714... this makes a rersistance of +/- 3,5 Ohms that answers your question. about 3.5 Ohms resistance you'll need to make them flash normaly. |
Al_lighton
| Posted on Tuesday, January 11, 2005 - 08:04 pm: |
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Odie, About 2"x1.5"x1", not including the connectors pins. They are in the standard pattern, so it mates right where the standard flasher does. If you don't do the running light conversion/brake light timout suspender, you simply plug it in where your flasher is and you're done. If you want the running light conversion it comes iwtht he wire and the connector to activate that function. Same with the brake light timeout. You just need to figure out yourself where to tap those lines in. It has some dip switches for setting the basic functions, all the rest are soft functions (i.e. four sequential right had turns activates flasher mode, etc). If you want to get fancy, you elimnate the push buttons in the control pod and add two little springs they provide to make your switch self centering. It's a cool little unit. I'm not sure about the flasher circuit on an S2, I'll need to look into that. Al Al |
Wells01
| Posted on Thursday, January 13, 2005 - 09:55 am: |
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Thanks 3.5ohm resistors did the trick. For those that are interested I got the signals here. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/mcycle-1/mcycle-1.html#gen53 8 Bullseye indicators. Cheers |
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