| Author | Message | ||
     Pcmodeler  |
OK, this may sound like a stupid question, cause it is, but the last three bikes I've all owned all fully disengaged the clutch when I pulled it in. My Firebolt doesn't and I'm guessing it probably needs to be adjusted. Be aware, I have never actually driven this bike. Bought it used and it had some damage. Thought the reason I couldn't pull the clutch in all of the way was because the clutch lever was broken when I bought it, but I replaced it and it still doesn't allow me to disengage. Don't see a tension adjustment know on the lever. | ||
| T9r  |
That would be page 1-21 Clutch Adjustment in your Service Manual. Start there. | ||
| M1combat  |
If you haven't ridden it... How do you know it doesn't fully disengage? | ||
| Pcmodeler |
I've got a service manual on order but haven't gotten it yet. I can tell it don't fully disengage because when I sit on the bike, pull in the clutch lever, I am not able to push the bike forward or backward. I need to put it in neutral. | ||
| Spyder12s  |
that seems to be a commen act of these bikes that I have seen anyway if they sit they get "sticky" ..not a big deal once you start it will be better ..also if the lever was broke the cable may be streched ..not to expensive to replace ... | ||
| T9r |
Ditto Spyders comment... These bikes are not like most inline 4 cylinder Jap bikes. They are NOT easy to move around, bike off, in gear and clutch lever pulled in. When you remove the cover on the left side of the primary, you will see the adjustment. Pull the clutch lever and you see the action that occurs. One thing to keep in mind... KEEP the cables lubricated, it will make a world of difference. Enjoy | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
PC, That's normal. The bike will not freely roll by engaging the clutch because of the fluid friction (wet clutch) when the engine is not fully warmed up. As soon as the engine is fully warmed up, you will be able to roll the bike by pulling the clutch lever. You will also see that when you put it in 1st gear from neutral, when it is not warmed up, it will lurch the bike slightly. All normal for XBs. | ||
| Pcmodeler |
So, should I warm the bike up prior to riding? The weather has been in the 40's recently (about 50 in the garage) so it's been a bit cold. | ||
| Mikej  |
Yep, warm the bike up a bit first. If it's really cold you might have to shut it off and put it into gear and then restart it until the tranny lube gets warmed up some. | ||
| Glitch  |
PC, edit your profile to tell more about yourself and where you're from ect... 40 and 50 degrees ani't nuthin' You need to get some seat time bad! Once you get to know your machine some of the mystery will be replaced with an ear to ear grin! Now! Go out and play in the street! | ||
| Midknyte |
Ok, I've got a question now. Everyone and everywhere, says to allow these bikes to warm up upon start before taking off. But I see no mention of how long. Not even in the owners manual. A minute? Two? Five? What is sufficient / good...? | ||
| Pcmodeler |
Get some time bad??? I haven't ridden a bike in about 10 years. The old story of selling the last one I had in the fall with the intention of getting something new. Spring came and went 10 times. Previous bikes were a Honda CX 500 Deluxe, Yamaha FJ 600 and Suzuki GS700ES. Just listing those bikes should tell you how long ago my last ride was. They were all made in the 80's. I have to install some parts on my car (waiting on some springs) so that I can get the car out of the garage. Then I can install some parts on my bike and maybe take it for a few circles around the cul de sac. I also need to put my helmet back together. I decided to paint it last night. | ||
| Daves |
Depends on the temp. I let all my Buell and HD bikes warm up until the cylinders are hot to the touch. On the HD's I feel the rocker covers but on the XB you can't do that easily so I reach down on the left(non exhaust)side and touch the cylinders. | ||
| Mikej |
On a 'tuber the general rule of thumb is to warm the engine until you feel the rocker covers get warm to the touch, this ensures all or most of the cylinder heat expansion has happened and other stuff to ensure that once you whack the throttle you won't get parts moving around much more than they're supposed to move. I've been told that one of the reasons for base gasket leaks is from running a cold engine hard. I don't know how easy it is on an XB to feel the rocker cover temp with a bare hand while sitting on the seat. | ||
| Fullpower  |
this is not that big of a deal. the bike will warm up just fine while you are putting on your earplugs, helmet, gloves, and leaving your driveway. you can ride the bike immediately after starting it just take it easy for a few miles.there is no magic number of seconds or minutes during which your bike has to idle, just dont flog it cold. to get a real good seal the head gasket relies on the heat expanded cylinder pressure, so you dont want to be doing full throttle runs up to redline with a cold engine, but on the other hand you are not going to damage the motor putting through your neighbohood at 2100 rpm either. when you ride the bike you will develop a feel for what it likes. | ||
| Wyckedflesh  |
Its even worse when you put the EnergyOne MFG Race clutch in  If its not in nuetral I know if I ate my wheaties in the morning...Even if I am in a hurry and start the bike in gear it will lurch forward. | ||
| Jeremyh  |
i also experience this dragging clutch but it is only when the bike is cold. i can roll it around all day long with it in gear and clutch pulled as long as it is warmed up. | ||
| Sparky  |
I have found a technique that lessens the clunk of dropping into first gear on a cold morning or nearly always completely eliminates the clunk for the afternoon's ride home from work. Do this: after the engine has warmed up for a couple of minutes and before shifting into first gear, pull in the clutch lever and give the engine about 5 or so quick revs from idle. Then without releasing the lever, shift into first. If you're expecting a clunk or lurch, you'll be pleasantly surprised. I guess what happens is that the relatively viscous trans oil helps hold back the clutch plates conected to the gears while the rapidly accelerating engine driven plates break free from the stiction(?) of the oil film. This is similar to breaking the clutch plates free by pushing the cold bike in gear with the clutch pulled in only the engine is doing the work.  | ||
| Hkwan |
Going back to the topic of dragging clutch while the bike is off/cold and clutch lever pulled in - I also noticed for the first time tonight that I can hardly push the bike forward or backward when it is in gear with clutch lever squeezed. Yesterday morning, 40deg F, rode it for about 10 min, had it sit for about 35min and then tried to start the bike in first gear, clutch lever squeezed, and the bike stalled. 2nd time hitting the ignition was fine. Is this normal? The bike had to be a little bit warm at that time, correct? My F4i doesn't do that. Is it because the tranny share the same oil reservoir as the motor on that bike? |
