| Author | Message | ||
     Barkandbite  |
With all the suspension setting questions that come up here, I'm surprised this hasn't been addressed in detail before. I'm going to ask a couple of questions that I *assumed* I knew the answer to but it seems that everyone has an opinion. 1) When setting the preload on the front forks and the setting calls for 4 lines showing, does that mean that one should set it on the FIFTH line (covered by the housing) or the THIRD line. That is, is the one line that the fork ends on considered "showing?" The picture in the manual indicates that 4 lines showing is the default but only three are actually visible. 2) When setting compression on the front forks, the manual suggests that you turn the adjuster clockwise until it "bottoms." I'd like a better definition of "bottoming" because neither of my forks are in agreement with how far I need to go until I can't go down any further. For example, the fork on the left "bottoms" where the brass adjuster is flush with the aluminum housing. The right fork has about an 1/8" of an inch when I've got it pretty well torqued. This bothers me because they are obviously not starting from the same point and thus the settings will not match. Where do you guys "bottom" out the little brass adjuster to? Just where it starts to bind or do you go until you can't muscle it anymore? This has me worried because perhaps I've been doing it wrong all along... Chris | ||
| M1combat  |
1. The fourth line is showing. It's at the same level as the top triple clamp... Maybe a little higher. The key is to make sure they are the same. 2. As far as turning it tight enough that you can't muscle it anymore... The manual says to not do that as I recall. Personally, I turn them until they seat. Both of mine feel the same. They both bottom at different angles to the rider, but they both feel the same and they are at pretty much the same height when bottomed. | ||
| Wyckedflesh  |
1) You set the line so that it is just visible as it exits the top of the fork tube. 2)Bottoming means you turn it til it stops. Not tight, just as it comes to a stop. Where it stops is where you use to start your measurement. As long as you bottom the adjuster, then count turns out from bottom then both will be equal. Thread pitch is still thread pitch so each adjuster will open the same amount as long as you keep your references straight. For instance one of mine almost lines up with the dot on the blue ring but the other is off by 1/4 turn. So for the one I use the dot, and the other I use 1/4 turn of the dot as the starting point. | ||
| Barkandbite |
Wycked/M1: That's what I'm referring to...you both seem to be saying similar but slightly different things. M1 says he turns them until they "seat" and Wycked, you say that you turn until it "stops...not tight, just as it comes to a stop." Neither of those seem to align with the term "bottom" but I ended up basically going by feel...I rotate clockwise until I feel the adjuster start to grab (stop.) Then I count out the measurements. This occurs at different points on the two forks, but it is what it is. The brass bits end up being different heights when I use the methods above, but as Wycked points out, his alignments are off, also. OK, I don't feel so bad  Thanks fellas. LSL Dampner is on. Going testing tomorrow. Chris | ||
| M1combat |
Hmmm... mine are both pointed directly at the dot when "seated". One of them does seem to have some extra friction for the last 1/4 to 1/2 turn but it's not seated. I wouldn't imagine it takes any more than 1 lb of torque to get through that extra friction. I think the factory seats them (by their definition, which is the one that counts) and then hits them with a punch to make the dot. I think the dot should be the "seated" point on all of the forks... | ||
| Wyckedflesh |
Seated can mean bottomed, the main thing is you turn the adjuster until it stops, then adjust outward and count the turns. | ||
| Ingemar  |
I turned compression and rebound clockwise holding my screwdriver with three fingertips. For the size of that brass thingy, that's about all the torque you would want to put on there. Closed is closed, it doesn't need any more than that IMO. | ||
| M1combat |
On the money. No "torque" required at all. I think the manual mentions destruction of parts if you close it too tight... Just seat the damn thing. |
