| Author | Message | ||
     Barkandbite  |
Guys: My LSL (Showa) Gold steering damper showed up from across the pond today from Trojan. They're closed, so I thought I'd shoot this out to my fellow Badwebbers. There's a single page of "instructions" which really aren't instructions at all given the translation from German -- they are really some pictures and a couple of "pointers." I've attached a link to it below: http://www.packetfilter.com/buell/lsl-damper.gif I can figure out the gist of what is needed for installation, but there are two things bothering me: 1) It seems to intimate that in order to accomodate the fork clamp, one needs to move the fork down in the triples and lower yoke such that the top of the fork is flush with the top triple tree. It says (specifically) "Move the stanchions through the top and bottom yoke. The upper edge of the top yoke and the top of the stanchion must be flush-mounted." Right now, the forks are through the upper triple tree (Heli) by two lines. Won't lowering the forks into the yokes cause a dramatic handling difference? Didn't someone here do this and immediately reverse it given the ill handling it caused? 2) There are no instructions as to how to actually adjust the damper from "min" to "max" I assume it's as easy as turning the knob, but I'd like to know which direction. All in all, the quality of the product looks good, but the lack of installation instructions really sucks. While I acknowledge the first warning on the sheet "...if you are not a trained motorcycle mechanic stop now. Ask a local motorcycle shop to do the work for you..." I do *all* the work on my scoot myself, and I think I can do this jest fine  I just figured if I spend this much $$ on a product, it ought to come with some semblance of instructions that answer ALL my questions. Chris | ||
| Ingemar  |
I don't understand the part about lowering the forks. If you don't do that it shouldn't prevent installation, right? The install should be straightforward. I can't remember who it was, but someone else on here has that damper too and I thought he said the install was easy. Figuring out what stiffens and what lessens damping is easy enough ... Just try it out It is indeed as easy as turning the knob. I reckon clockwise would stiffen it. Good luck with the install and make a nice pic when your done! I have mine on order and hopefully I get it before next riding season ( to Matt) Ingemar. | ||
| Bud  |
me thinks the lowering is to have a flat piece off fork outer tube to mount the fork clamp ? did you have problems getting the damper though the mounting clamp ? or did you remove the decall's ?? | ||
| Barkandbite |
Bud: That's right -- it looks like you have to lower the forks in order to provide an equal-radius (the forks taper) under the lower yoke for the mounting bracket to attach to. That is, right under the lower yoke, the fork tube begins to taper and the fork clamp that attaches to the damper rod needs an equal radius to mate to. By lowering the forks, you gain the added amount needed to do so. I'm not sure I need to flush the forks to get there, but I'll measure. Back to the point -- doesn't lowering the forks jack the rake and affect handling? I seem to recall someone said they dropped their forks and it handled like crap -- essentially making the steering very quick and inducing wobble. However, perhaps that's acceptable since the wobble will be cancelled by the damper? Hmmmm. I am mocking stuff up now and haven't mounted anything. Chris On edit: I just searched for some threads on "lowering" the forks...seems WyckedFlesh did this...but I think there might be a semantics issue at play. I may actually be talking about "raising" the forks relative to everyone else's description. From my perspective I am being asked to lower the point/depth at which the top of the forks flush with the triples. It seems that others like in this thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show.cgi?tpc=32777&post=322531#POST322531 are really talking about the opposite; dropping the point at which the triples/forks meet. Either way, this has got to affect handling. (Message edited by Barkandbite on December 11, 2004) | ||
| Ortegakid  |
CB, Will deff affect handling, slowing the turn in, and may make it not as fun to ride,how much(in mm),do you think it will change? | ||
| Wyckedflesh  |
Bark, no, what I had done was the reverse of what they are saying. Lowering the forks into the triples will SLOW up the steering not make it quicker. Since it is the same thing you do when you install the Crossroads bars on the S I can tell you it is something you won't really notice. Just make the bike feel that tad bit more stable at highspeeds. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
I thought this thing was suppose to be easier than the Woodcraft/Hyperpro kit, which only requires grinding a small amount of the front flanges. I installed my Woodcraft/Hyperpro steering damper in about 2 hours, no fork adjustment of any kind. | ||
| Barkandbite |
It's not that it's difficult since it's a few bolts and such but I was surprised about having to relocate the fork position -- I really don't want to slow turn-in at the expense of installation.  I'm removing the forks anyway to have the fork oil changed, so it's not really an inconvenience, but I'm quite interested in what this is going to do to the handling. If it sucks, off it comes. Will let you all know... Chris | ||
| Forcebuell |
Bark,I have the damper you talk of installed on my bike ,I had enough place available for the fork clamp to secure properly with out having to relocate forks in the trees.If you need any help just ring Matt at Trojan where you bought it from. | ||
| Barkandbite |
Force: I will certainly call Matt. He was closed when I got it, but since lots of folks are considering this purchase, like the good Badwebber I am, I am sharing. It's not like anyone really needs "help" installing this, I just want to understand what the trade-offs are in handling. SO, how many lines on the forks do you have showing? I also notice you're not running the stock triples, eh? Are your lower yokes stock or are they different, also? Chris (Message edited by Barkandbite on December 12, 2004) | ||
| Forcebuell |
The whole triple tree setup is a bkg item and has tapered roller bearings instead of the standard type which gets rid of the annoying working loose and causing head shake!The damper made a difference by eliminating the twitchyness of my xb9s under hard load,I'm sure you'll feel the difference even on the lowest setting.As far as lines on the forks I cant remember and my bike is stored for winter at the moment,I'll check and let you know Stef   | ||
| Barkandbite |
Thanks, Stef. Damn that TiForce looks good...only wish it didn't lose the valence... Chris | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Force, Can you elaborate on your triple tree setup. Can't tell from the photo, but is it a stock? You mentioned "bkg" item. What's that? | ||
| Forcebuell |
The upper and lower yolks have been replaced by billet alliminium ones,this includes the shaft linking top and bottom yolks.Look on hillbillymotors.com for BKG triple trees.  | ||
| Trojan  |
Sorry we were closed when you tried to call. There is no need to move the fork legs at all when fitting the LSL damper kit, as there should be enough 54mm section fork leg to attach the clamp to without any changes being made. I have fitted this before without further mods (see pic). Adjustment is made by just turning the knurled piece on the end of the damper shaft. Anti-clockwise is minimum damping and clockwise maximum.  Hi Ingemar, sorry for the delay on yours. It should be here this week I think. | ||
| Blake |
Anony post and reply removed. Appeared to be a commercial non-sponsor post.  | ||
| M1combat  |
I just looked at my firebolt... It looks like I would not have to lower the forks through the triples at all. If you look at the fork w/o the damper in that pic, you will see that there's about 1/4" of flat area before the fork begins to taper. Mine is exactly like that from the factory. | ||
| Barkandbite |
Thanks Matt. I think I can squeeze it in there as I do have about a 1/4 on the boundary of the taper...just like the picture shows on the leg that does not have the bracket mounted to. Just to be clear, Matt, how many lines do you have showing on the forks above the triples? Either way, consider this feedback as the instructions clearly describe flushing the top of the forks against the yokes... Thanks, CHris | ||
| Trojan |
Hi Chris, I will take a good look at the instructions with the next batch and re-write if necessary. Thanks for the feedback. If you find that you do have to lower the forks very slightly (no more than 5mm should be needed)through the yokes you shouldn't run into any handling problems. Raising the forks through the yokes though is a slightly different matter and you would have to be very careful as it can become very twitchy indeed. As the forks have retaining rings around the top of the legs to prevent upward movement all stock bikes should be the same regarding the amount of rings showing. I have removed the retaining rings on ours and raised the forks slightly to quicken the steering so can't remember what ours was when stock. (Message edited by trojan on December 14, 2004) | ||
| Barkandbite |
Coolio, thanks Matt. I'm getting the forks serviced this weekend so I'll get the damper installed shortly. Let you know how she handles. Chris |
