| Author | Message | ||
     Cirwin2010 |
Like many before me, I trusted the bike manual torque specs and stripped the oil plug threading. I had a trusted shop use the Time-sert kit I provided them along with some Time-sert thread locker. They had more tools and lift to help with the process hence why I did not do it myself (plus other work to be done on the bike). I am not entirely sure why, but they installed a different oil plug with a wide base that matches the one in the link. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-65267-AutoGrade-Drai n-Plug/dp/B000C10EW6/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords =1%2F2x20+oil+plug&qid=1616550088&sr=8-12 They also used a copper washer rather than a rubber o-ring. Since the repair 2 years ago it has leaked a drop of oil once every few weeks to every few months. I changed the oil a few days ago, but changed the washer with an o-ring since I did not understand its purpose. The bike leaked 1-2 drops a day after doing this. I drained the oil and reinstalled the copper washer, but there still seems to be a bit of a leak, albeit slower this time. I am not sure exactly where the problem lies. I do not know if the leak is between the Time-sert threads and the bolt or if it is between the Time-sert and the swing arm. Maybe the wide head on the bolt is causing clearance issues with the swingarm since the surrounding surface is angled, preventing a good seal with the washer and o-ring. I have the old bolt, I might try installing that depending on how bad the leak is. If anyone has any suggestions or experience with this sort of issue it would be very helpful! P.S. In case anyone is wondering why I waited two years to change my oil, it was because I didn't ride in 2020 and my bike seemed to have burnt off most of the oil anyways and needed a refill. Track day might have had something to do with that? | ||
| Tpehak |
I would not rely on seal between the timesert and the swing arm and would find a plug with o-ring with diameter bigger than the timesert diameter to seal the swing arm and the plug faces. I would also install safety wire on such plug. | ||
| Griffmeister |
If they used the thread locker that you gave them then the time-sert should be sealed. If they forgot that could be the problem. As far as orings go, they are not meant to seal a flat surface. There needs to be a taper or a groove to hold the oring in place where just the outer edge actually does the sealing. However, there are some hydraulic fittings that use a thin washer that fits the outside diameter of the oring to prevent it from being crushed. You might be able to simulate this by taking your drain plug and oring to a hardware store to match up a thin washer. Of course a little pipe dope on the drain plug threads can help seal them as well as provide some vibration resistance. As far as the head of the plug being too wide, could always do the old trick of paint or marker around drain hole then install bare drain plug to see if the color comes off any high spots. | ||
| Teeps |
I would seal the outside rim of the time sert/swing arm with jb weld. Applied like when caulking a seam. Knock off any high spots of jb weld as needed. Then use non hardening thread sealer, such as Permatex 59214, to seal the drain bolt. | ||
| Ducbsa |
Griff, is this what you meant? https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/126/3437 https://www.jegs.com/p/Earls/Earls-Stat-O-Seal-Sea ling-Washers/1538544/10002/-1?itemPerPage=60&pno=1 | ||
| Cirwin2010 |
Adding a follow up to my post. The plug started leaking again with the washer installed. I decided to try reinstalling the original plug with an o-ring and that seems to have worked! It has been almost a day now and there is no evidence of oil leaking out. If the leak does come back, I will keep what was mentioned in this thread in mind. Thank for your replies. I am hoping the issue all along was a poor bolt and gasket match. | ||
| Cirwin2010 |
Also, in reply to Tpehak, what is the purpose of a safety wire? I have seen that mentioned a few times on this forum. Is it just to prevent the bolt from loosening so it does not need to be torqued on too tight? | ||
| Teeps |
Cirwin2010 Posted on Thursday, March 25, 2021 Also, in reply to Tpehak, what is the purpose of a safety wire? I have seen that mentioned a few times on this forum. Is it just to prevent the bolt from loosening so it does not need to be torqued on too tight? from wiki: Safety wire or locking-wire is a type of positive locking device that prevents fasteners from falling out due to vibration and other forces. The presence of safety wiring may also serve to indicate that the fasteners have been properly tightened. Fasteners should be torqued to the recommended value set by the engineers. An exception: Buell XB cast aluminum swing arm drain bolt. 30ft/lb is too much. If you use the thread sealant on the drain bolt, as recommended by Buell. The chance of the bolt vibrating loose, when torqued to way less than recommended is slim to none. I always torqued the drain bolt on my Ulysses to 12ft/lb and used sealant. Never had one loosen by vibration. | ||
| Cirwin2010 |
Thanks for the information. I may attempt to install a safety wire before my next track day. I don't really trust my torque wrench (especially with the motorcycle). For the drain bolt I torque it by hand so it just squashes the o-ring and felt snug without cranking on it. I really should get myself a new wrench. My currently one is one of these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL1NS?tag=garagetoo ladvisor-20) which was probably too big for working on the bike anyways. Anyone have a suggested wrench that won't completely break the bank? | ||
| Griffmeister |
Ducbsa, I had forgotten about those washers but they are one piece and do require a fairly smooth and true surface to work well. We used those on nitrogen filled accumulators and they worked quite well. This was what I had in mind, http://45.55.163.233/product/4m12f8omxs/ It has a normal oring with a removable washer around it, you can use the washer if the mating surface is flat or remove it if there’s a taper. | ||
| 2cylinderbill |
Just bought a used Snap-On TQFR250 on eBay. It was reasonable for a fine tool in good shape but since everyone's bank is different, YMMV. There are a couple of other ones out there now and probably at any given time. I might have to have S-O calibrate it is the only downside to buying used. Needed it for the rear wheel nut on a Multistrada. Big sucker. 240nm. (Message edited by 2CylinderBill on March 25, 2021) | ||
| Ducbsa |
Ah, just use the German standard: Gutenteit! |
