| Author | Message | ||
     Hkwan |
Just in case some of you have not came across the post "Chafing is not pretty", just want to drop a note that you might want to look at the wiring by taking off the airbox cover/airbox. The wires, cables near or on the cylinders might very well be chafed. I think the best thing to do is just to do some PM (preventive maintainance) and just put wire loom on the wires that have no sleeves protecting them. | ||
| Ingemar  |
I asume you looked and found your wires have rubbed against something or melted? | ||
| Odie  |
Don't forget to look up the thread I started also- "You might want to fix this" Later...Odie | ||
| Hkwan |
Ingemar, not melted, but surely sign of rubbing, almost all the way through the insulation down to the copper wire. | ||
| Ingemar |
Yeah, I guess I will have to check it too. Electrical wires are good, I checked those a few months ago, as well as the spark wires. Idle cable is giving me the buggers. I need to take it off, lube it and route it in such a way that it adjusts normally. Winter projects .... | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Ingemar, Why and where would you lube the idle cable? The idle cable is not routed through a housing (like clutch or throttle). The plastic is like coated onto the cable. Mine is also chafed, exposing the metal. I think routing the idle cable over a 5/16" or 3/8" silicon hose will do the trick. It only needs to cover the area that's rubbing on the engine. | ||
| Hkwan |
Just slip a wire loom over the entire length of the idle cable. Kinda tight space but doable with the tank off. | ||
| Keith  |
When I replaced my intake manifold seals, I found the injector and TPS wires were rubbing the right hand side of my frame. I put spiral wrap over the wires. Keith | ||
| Ingemar |
Why and where would you lube the idle cable? The idle cable is not routed through a housing I had it in my hands and would swear it's routed through a housing. I'll look at it when I start my winter projects, because the way it adjusts now is just crazy. I can turn it a full turn, and when I let go it will simply pop back to where it was. Giving it more than a full turn will have it go "cruunk" and then it suddenly idles at 2500rpm .... | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Ingemar, the black plastic material on the cable is a plastic coating/jacket stuck to the metal cable part. But I think I know what happening to your idle cable. The cable lost flexibility due to the plastic coating becoming hard/brittle, or the worn out plastic part, which becomes more flexible than the rest, creating a low radius (sharp) bend. The threaded part and the hex head part are situated at almost perpendicular to each other. The cable thus has to loop or curve almost 90 degrees. If the curvature becomes sharp, especially near the threaded part, it will wobble too much as it turns, meaning that it will be biased to a position that provides the least pressure (causing a full turn). Hence, fine adjustment can't be made. I had a similar problem, the thing will come back to the same position after a ride. I believe taking off the idle cable, straightening it out, sanding the worn plastic part lightly or even removing the plastic jacket, and putting a silicon plastic tubing loosely around it and putting the idle cable back will solve this problem. That's my next project. Just be careful to not lose the spring at the threaded end. |
