| Author | Message | ||
     Xbullet |
What’s the stock height for the tubes themselves? How many lines showing above the top triple tree? 2007 XB9R I’ve searched. I’ve googled. I don’t have a service manual handy. I’ve found all the other stock settings and aggressive handling settings by weight (and I’ll gladly share them). But nowhere does anyone talk about fork height in the trees... | ||
| Tpehak |
Fork height is fixed and not adjustable, there is a metal o-ring in the groove on the fork tube is hard stopped by the step in the top tree bracket when you slide the tube inside the top tree bracket. When you slide the tube into the tree bracket you have to make sure you slide it all way in up to the hard stop. You can download service manual here https://www.buellmods.com  Here is size for 2009 Buell XB for reference. 2007 might differ.  (Message edited by TPEHAK on December 06, 2020) | ||
| Xbullet |
Thanks a million! | ||
| 1_mike |
Then how come I was able to drop my forks a bit..? As I recall, I dropped them in my bike .25". It's very easy to remove the metal "o-ring", and put the forks where ever you want them. Mike | ||
| Tpehak |
It is not safe to remove the o-ring because of the fork tube can slide in some cases. That o-ring prevents such accident. There is also a chance you will not align properly the left and right tubes height without the o-rings if you rely on something else instead of the machined step inside of the top tree bracket. The top face of the top tree for instance can not be used as datum plane for alignment of the tubes because of it is cast powder coated surface, not machined, left and right sides of the top tree bracket can differ significantly, and as result left and right tubes will have different height and will cause front wheel bearing wear and drag, front fork binding and wear, handling issues, etc. (Message edited by TPEHAK on December 09, 2020) | ||
| Skipbarberman |
Tpehak - I would say 'recommended', not required. The rest of the motorcycle world has provisions for this; installing the axle and squaring before tightening/torquing the triple clamps. The snap rings simply make this an easier process, creating a 'stop point' for fork tube insertion into the top clamp. There are no such provisions for the bottom clamp of the triple tree, and without proper torque on the steering stem prior to installation of the forks, that too could cause the binding you refer to. There are specific steps that need to be taken in specific order, in assembling a front end that are universal in motorcycle repair. | ||
| Shoggin |
Exactly what he said ^^^^^  | ||
| Tpehak |
That's obsolete unsafe technique, Buell invented the best way of attaching front fork. | ||
| _buelligan_ |
Wait! Shut the front door, Tpehak just complemented something about Buell! | ||
| Shoggin |
I don't think Buell invented that particular cost cutting MFG technique. But hey, I've been wrong before... | ||
| Phelan |
Many manufacturers, including Buell, put compression dampening adjustment in one fork and rebound dampening in the other. Harley even put cartridge internals in one fork and damper rod internals in the other, on some of the touring models. Meaning the triple trees and axle sufficiently equalize offset forces between the separate forks. In other words, if you can't see a difference in fork height, you probably won't feel it either. | ||
| Shoggin |
I wouldn't think you'd feel that small a difference in springs or pre-load either. |
