| Author | Message | ||
     Tleighbell |
Rotating engine because i have to drill out an exhaust stud on rear cylinder., The one closest to the outside, and of course, higher up. Can't drop the engine quite enough to get a drill in there. Need to drop it down another 1/2" or so. Not sure what is holding it up. could be wiring harness or oil lines but they are not stretched tight enough to be taking that load. Any ideas? | ||
| Tpehak |
If you followed ALL the steps from service manual for engine rotation procedure you can't drop it lower than the front tire. Go through the steps list one more time. And be extremely careful when you will rotate it back because of you can easily cut wires or breather hoses or squish and break the breather valves buy the engine and the frame if you will not pay attention. (Message edited by TPEHAK on August 02, 2020) | ||
| Tleighbell |
thanks. I found a lot of tension on the throttle cable, not mentioned in the manual. Removed the throttle cable but not getting much more downward rotation. I think i have about as much downward rotation as in your picture. I just need a little more to be able to get a straight shot in there with a drill, assuming i can find a 1/8" drill bit about 5 inches long! other wise have to drop close to another inch to get a drill chuck in there. Has anyone been able to do this without removing the head? | ||
| Fredrikrosen |
Not possible to weld a bolt on the broken stud to get it out? | ||
| Ducbsa |
One of these with a hex shank bit? https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-MAXFIT-Right-An gle-Magnetic-Attachment-DWARA60/308436444?mtc=Shop ping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCESSORIES-M ulti-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessories_LIA&cm _mmc=Shopping-B-F_D25T-G-D25T-25_7_POWER_TOOL_ACCE SSORIES-Multi-NA-Feed-LIA-NA-NA-PowerToolAccessori es_LIA-71700000043746545-58700004596952413-9270004 9573927185&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3fby8Iq A6wIVBYzICh3f5AreEAQYAiABEgKc3PD_BwE | ||
| Tleighbell |
Thanks guys, good suggestions. i'll have to take a look see. | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
The oil line running to the swingarm keeps the engine from rotating any further, assuming you pulled the front isolator mount to allow you to clear the front tire. | ||
| Tleighbell |
Thanks Mike. I suspected that could be it. Is it one line in particular? Feed line? return line or just remove both? i have already removed the breather line. | ||
| Professorbarnhouse |
would a small right angle drill or a die grinder with a 1/8" collet be able to fit in the space you have? Harbor freight tools has some pretty inexpensive pneumatic ones. | ||
| Cupcake_mike |
I dont remember which line it is, but I saw it when I did my first rotation (to drill out the front exhaust studs) and noticed that the one running behind the rear exhaust mount does hold up any further rotation. | ||
| Tleighbell |
Thanks Mike and Professor. I have thought about a right angle drill etc. and will look into it. There is a bit of room there. as for the oil line, there still seems to be some slack but i might try undoing the P clamps that clamp the line to the swing arm to get a little more slack. | ||
| Tleighbell |
Update. First for anyone who is interested in drilling out a rear exhaust stud, i discovered that the stud is much easier to access with the engine rotated than i thought. Because of the angle of the stud, the 1/4" drill bit stuck into the Jim's Jig comes out just under the frame. There is not enough room for a drill chuck but with a drill extension, you can use a regular drill. Here is the problem. all the drill extensions i have seen are for impact drills and only take a drill with a 1/4" hex shank. I bought a titanium drill bit with a hex shank and it does not seem to be up to the job of drilling out the stud. I think it needs a cobalt drill bit but i can't seem to find a 1/4" cobalt drill bit with a 1/4" hex shank at least not without buying a complete set which is pricey. Suggestions? | ||
| Tpehak |
You probably need to remove the engine from the frame and do not use drill extension because of it does not allow you to control the drill. You need the drill as short as possible to have precise control. Long drill with extension even with guide jig might wobble and ruin the hole. You also need to use counterclockwise drill for this work. (Message edited by TPEHAK on October 05, 2020) | ||
| Kz6fittycent |
That's only if you're hoping to catch the remaining bit of stud and remove it. You can totally use a CW drill to do all of this if you're not worried about removing the stud. That is to say, you've said, "Screw this! I'm putting in a heli-coil or time-cert!!" because all efforts to remove the stupid stud have failed and you're tired of the anxiety of trying. If I break any more exhaust studs, I'll give removing it a try - exactly ONE. Then I'm grabbing my heli-coil kit and getting it done. | ||
| Tleighbell |
My super machinist friend told me today to just pull the head and take it to a machine shop before I create a bigger problem. Guess that's what i'll do. | ||
| Griffmeister |
“Just” he says. | ||
| Shoggin |
I have been very lucky using a quality left hand drill set quite a few times on exhaust manifold studs. More often than not, the bit bites in and the stud unwinds perfectly from the hole. Chase the threads with a thread chaser (NOT a tap) and Bob's yer uncle! YMMV.... | ||
| Tleighbell |
Thanks Shoggin. Guess it can't hurt to try. I'll report back. I did soak it in PB Blaster for a few days so here's hoping. | ||
| Zacks |
Try Kroil. Not cheap. Amazing results |
