| Author | Message | ||
     Swanthog |
I purchased this Toby steering damper for the '06 Uly to help with front wheel deflection travelling over baby-heads off road. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TOBY-Motorcycle-Steering-Damper-Stabilizer-for-Buell-XB12X-2006-2010/282826817891 I ran into a problem with the installation and this is the resolution offered by the manufacturer: "You must make a 6.7 mm diameter hole of a depth of 23.0 mm and then tap M8 to the big washer see picture number 3. Best regards Michel Toby" He is talking about drilling and tapping the front motor mount isolator bolt. Seems this would severely weaken the bolt. What do you all think?  | ||
| Audiowize |
That's certainly going to weaken the bolt, but you'd need some substantial engineering knowledge and knowledge of what kind of load that isolator bolt sees to know if it's going to be much of an issue. A big part of the challenge of a part like this on a Buell is that you can't really attach it to the engine, so the attachment points are limited. | ||
| Teeps |
Even if it didn't involve drilling and tapping the bolt to attach the other end of the damper. I would not be comfortable putting the isolater bolt under any sort of shear force. | ||
| Swanthog |
Thanks, all. There is a guy with substantial machining ability that created his own , similar, damper: https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?53843 -DIY-Cheap-steering-damper Reading the thread, he hasn't had any issues and a couple of users have commercially available dampers that use this same method without issue. I didn't see the LSL unit until today but it seems popular with Buellers and hasn't had any issues: https://www.custom-chrome-europe.com/en/682819.htm l | ||
| Shoggin |
I did exactly that steering damper mod on the STT about 25K miles ago with ZERO issues with the exception that I needed to add a set screw so the fork clamp wouldn't rotate. Has not budged since. I also used O-rings on both sides of the rod ends to stop the unit from flopping around and protect it a bit from the weather. One of the best $40 mods I've done and REALLY helps off-road. The damper isn't that much of a shear load, remember you still need to steer it! LOL. (Message edited by shoggin on October 04, 2019) (Message edited by shoggin on October 04, 2019) | ||
| Tpehak |
It will be fine. Just make sure you are drilling your hole perfectly centered and vertical. (Message edited by Tpehak on October 04, 2019) | ||
| Teeps |
Being an expert in machining does not necessarily make a person a good engineer. But, as other's here have said; you'll be fine. Just saying I'd not want to be on the bike if the isolator bolt broke... | ||
| 1_mike |
NO...it will NOT weaken the bolt by removing material from the center. One caveat, said hole cannot be too large..! The rear axle in 11,000hp Top Fuel and Funny Car axles are...hollow..! You can buy specialty axles for your hot rod that are...hollow. You can buy bolts that are...hollow. One thing I would do is to make sure the first thread on the tap has a "gradual" ramp on it. That is, no sharp points on the first thread. As Tpehak said, centered and straight as possible. No such thing as Perfect..! Mike P.s. - I worked in the Aerospace Industry for over 35 years. Most of it in the Testing of parts capacity. So yea, I have some experience with this type thing. | ||
| Shoggin |
Seems counter-intuitive but tubing usually has a stronger resistance to deflection than solid rod. I would have no problem (obviously) drilling a small threaded hole in that isolator bolt.  | ||
| Teeps |
Don't disagree with the 2 posts above. I just don't think the isolator bolt was designed to take a side load. This is the only steering damper system I've seen that uses the isolator bolt; which makes me wonder how much development went into its design. | ||
| 1_mike |
While I may agree to a small extent about the side load (and a fastener with a hole down the center)...IF...it were a solid connection, taking instant shock side loads. It is not, it's a soft shock absorber taking small input, highly damped side loads. Plus, I doubt the new fastener is all that long. All it has to be is about 1.5 times the diameter to be at full strength, which normally equals 4 to 5 threads deep. Again, much of this has to do with the diameter of the shocks attachment fastener. Which I doubt is that large, removing much original material from the engine mount fastener. Maybe 1/4" or 5/16" dia. ? I changed my mount once, a LONG time back, don't recall what the shank diameter of the motor mount fastener is.?? Mike | ||
| Skipbarberman |
For that very reason, I went with the GPR for my Firebolt. That, and I can adjust tension from the top clamp while I ride. (Message edited by skipbarberman on October 07, 2019) | ||
| 1_mike |
P.s. - Just reread the original post. 6.7mm, or slightly larger than 1/4". This is also a very good indicator of what the actual side load's will be...light..! Mike | ||
| Phelan |
LSL also uses the isolator bolt in one style of kit they offer. I've ran them without issue as well. |
