| Author | Message | ||
     Cirwin2010 |
2006 XB12Ss I unfortunately learned about the known (but unknown to me) issue with the owner's manual torque specs for the oil drain plug. The threads have stripped right out. I purchased the appropriate Time-Sert oil pan repair kit and Time-Sert 6020 thread locker. My shop is picking up the bike sometime next week (they are changing my tires and fork oil anyways) and I am giving them the kit to make the repair. I will provide them with instructions on how to handle it such as, flush out the swing arm with oil to remove remaining metal fragments and to torque the bolt down to 12 ft-lbs once complete. I could do this myself, but they have better tools, a lift, and the know how. Is there anything I should be worried about or am I about covered? (Message edited by cirwin2010 on April 18, 2019) | ||
| 1_mike |
Use heavy grease on the drill and tap, go VERY slowly when turning them. Clean, clean, clean. Did I mention...clean the inside of the swing arm ? Mike | ||
| Firemanjim |
That plug is a standard oil plug and any decent automotive store will have oversize plugs to go right in. Had to repair several bikes for folks that had this happen. | ||
| Fresnobuell |
Personally, I would do this myself. I trust the shops about as far as I can throw my motorcycle. IMHO, the majority of them do the minimum and sometimes less if the possible damage can be plausibly denied, difficult to prove and/or it occurs "down the road" so to speak. It takes me a LONG time to do things, but at least I know it's done thoroughly and correctly. Plus I learn about my motorcycle and it's really a labor of love. How are you going to know if they leave a shaving or two in the swingarm? | ||
| Skipbarberman |
Ever since racing, NO ONE touches my bikes. When I would change tires for guys at the track, I was always as focused and with the appropriate attention to detail that I would want, hurtling down the front straight at 155. I'm amazed now - with what bikes cost, and what shops charge, the work that people think is acceptable. Clearly, I'm getting old. | ||
| Dualbuells |
Since I'm new to XB family(I just purchased 08' X12STT) I've purchased the manual, what is the correct torque requirements for the oil change process? | ||
| Tpehak |
I apply thread sealant and tighten the oil plugs by hand with no any tools and no wrenches. Even torquing plug by bare hand you can easily squish and even damage the plug o-ring. So tighten the oil plugs just by hand nice and snug. If you will follow the manual torque you will damage the o-ring and likely strip the hole threads. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMuEHcP6iws&featur e=youtu.be I also drilled holes in my oil plugs and secured them with safety wire. https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?52521 -Complete-oil-change&p=579448&viewfull=1#post57944 8 | ||
| Cirwin2010 |
This update is long over due, but I got this fixed. I bought the Time-sert kit for repair and thread-locker for the insert. My shop took care of the install since they had a lift and were already going to be installing new tires and changing fork oil. I have put a few hundred miles on it so far and it has held up nicely. The shop did replace the original drain plug with something else. I think they picked up a new plug at a HD shop. It looks a little odd since the o-ring appears to be permanently attached to the plug. It has an orange disk around it right before the threading. | ||
| Griffmeister |
I have always thought that the drain hole was improperly machined. Normally any ORB fitting will allow the proper o-ring to seat fully without damage no matter how tight you make it. Of course, with aluminum threads, tight is a relative term. I have been tempted to open the seat slightly with a tapered reamer to give the o-ring someplace to sit. Has anyone tried this? | ||
| Tpehak |
Maybe there is not enough material to maintain side sealed o-ring interface. This is thin aluminum part. I also see no reason for this since the existing design works with no leaks. | ||
| Pdksh |
Yikes, I stripped the oil drain plug on my Honda Accord. Totally blows! I feel for the original poster. I have also screwed up countless o-rings on my Buell drain plugs. After replacing my drain pan I now pretty much hand tighten my drain bolts and monitor after the first couple of rides. The oil isn’t under pressure | ||
| Teeps |
I changed the oil in my '06 Ulysses 20 times in 40k miles. Always used the recommended thread sealant, reused o'ring until it showed signs of damage and torqued the bolt to 12lb/ft. Never leaked; never came loose. | ||
| Elff |
Both of my drain plugs are drilled so I can safety wire them after I reinstall them. I use thread sealant as well |
