| Author | Message | ||
     Xb_blaster |
Sooooo replaced my rocker box seals and got everything back together. I didn't reset the TPS when I put it back together and she would run when I gave it throttle but then slowly die. Backed all the way out and set the TPS to ~5 to 6 degrees and now it won't run at all. I'll get one cylinder to fire then that's it. Please help me because it has been in the 50s here in Colorado and I'm dying not being on my bike. | ||
| Shoggin |
It doesn't sound like anything a TPS re-set would do. Any details? I guess I can assume it's an XB-something, probably DDFI-2 the way you describe the procedure. Do you have any diagnostic tools? ECMDroid? What else have you checked? | ||
| 1_mike |
Would be helpful to know exactly what you are working on. I'd guess not everyone's crystal ball is working right now. Mike | ||
| Xb_blaster |
It’s a 2007 XB12scg, I have ecm droid and not sure what else to check. It would run before I loosened up the tps. | ||
| Shoggin |
Well, as long as we are still completely guessing: Fouled plugs, intake seal leak, out of gas, wiccans, locusts... | ||
| Shoggin |
XB blaster, the #1 rule is, 'Your answer can only be as good as your question.' We would love to help you, but If you don't understand that ^^^, then taking it to your local V-twin repair shop is the best idea. It will save you time, frustration, and money, before you start throwing parts at total guesses  | ||
| Skipbarberman |
Check your plug wires. Make sure that they are snapped down on top of the plugs. Use Dielectric grease to slide them on. The Throttle Body, TPS sensor, battery and all are common to both cylinders. If one is not firing, it has to be localized to the cylinder. Now, of course I'm guessing, like everyone else. Don't freak out, retrace your steps, and take your time. | ||
| Xb_blaster |
Everything is plugged in, all points are sealed and torqued. Again I’ll explain, the 2007 XB12SCG I own had the rear cylinder rocker box seal leaking. I replaced it. Once all back together the motorcycle would start, and run for a short time but then it would slowly die and I had not touched the TPS/idle adjuster. So I backed that out as the manual said to do, now it will not run and only 1 cylinder while fire. I have ECM Droid and a Buelltooth, OEM map, not out of gas, everything on my bike is in working order, as it was before I took it apart. Is there a way to load a video on here to show y’all what I mean? | ||
| Swanthog |
Hi, Xb_blaster. Upload your video to YouTube and share the link here. Thanks. | ||
| Firemanjim |
What did you unplug to replace that gasket? Bet a sensor not plugged in, or plug wire not connected properly. Which cyl fires? And explain your tps reset procedure in detail. | ||
| Xb_blaster |
I don't mean to sound hostile, but it ran before. There is nothing not plugged in, I'm not an idiot when it comes to mechanics. The motorcycle would run before I adjusted the TPS. That is after I put it all back together. Just need help getting the TPS just right. | ||
| Xb_blaster |
https://youtu.be/Im-BxXJqUoA https://youtu.be/hrmpPfwv04o Here are the videos with as good a description I can give. | ||
| Smorris |
Could the idle adjustment cable snapped or become unscrewed, just a guess | ||
| Xb_blaster |
It's still on there, tore back into it today. All cables are where they should be, everything is plugged in. Checked my voltage on battery and it's barely above 12 off a charger. Think that's it? Don't wanna buy a new one for no reason | ||
| Xb_blaster |
Put in a new battery, still not firing. | ||
| Steveford |
Do this: get maximum slop in the throttle cables hook up your ECMSpy cable to the bike, get it to connect to the ECM, back out the adjuster cable on the L/H side of the bike until the TPS VOLTAGE goes as far down as it's going to, back off 1.5 additional turns, snap the throttle open and closed 3X, hold the throttle grip closed and hit Reset TPS, Reset AFV. Screw in adjuster cable on L/H side of bike until it reads 5.2-5.6V, take slop out of throttle cables, start bike, run it until it hits 320F, set idle to 1050-1100, disconnect program from ECM and you're done. If it won't run after that throw in new spark plugs, these bikes foul them quickly if you do a lot of starts without the motor getting up to operating temperature. P.S. I don't have a shop manual in front of me but I'm pretty sure the initial voltage for start up is correct. (Message edited by SteveFord on March 27, 2019) | ||
| Smorris |
also don't put a 50 AMP charge into your new battery | ||
| Griffmeister |
+1 on changing the plugs, in fact do that first. If it was running on one cylinder before then it’s a good bet that one plug is already dead. Repeat attempts may have already killed the remaining one. One other thing, a while back when I had to rotate my engine, I did not fully seat the rubber intake on the throttle body as well as putting the big snap-ring back in a different position than it was. Took a test ride, got just past the driveway and died. Got it started again but could not throttle up above idle. Was able to creep back up the driveway and pulled the air box back off. Corrected the two things that I mentioned and it was fine after that. I can’t really explain it, it didn’t look like it could affect anything, but it worked. Just a thought to look past the obvious, just in case. | ||
| Steveford |
I did that with the intake rubber velocity stack, at full throttle it would just fall flat on its face. | ||
| Skipbarberman |
With the intake boot off, it creates a vacuum leak, causing an extremely lean condition at idle....wont run once you twist the throttle and open the throttle plate. | ||
| Xb_blaster |
It runs!! So somehow when I double checked everything was plugged in, I missed the ignition coil. I must've kinked it or something because the wire on the plug was solid but to the coil was kinked or off or something. But now it runs. It smells a lot like fuel now though. Could I have slightly flooded it a little when I was twisting the throttle trying to get it to run? I haven't been able to take it for a ride just yet, that'll happen next weekend. | ||
| Griffmeister |
Oh boy, it’s firing on both cylinders? You could easily have some excess fuel vapor hanging around, just make sure there’s no leaks. The next time you go to fire it up, be ready to ride and take it out for a good run to get up to full temperature. Otherwise you could still risk fouling out with a cool engine. | ||
| Shoggin |
XB Blaster: "Everything is plugged in, all points are sealed and torqued. Again I’ll explain,..." "I don't mean to sound hostile, but it ran before. There is nothing not plugged in, I'm not an idiot when it comes to mechanics..." "... tore back into it today. All cables are where they should be, everything is plugged in. .." and now. "...So somehow when I double checked everything was plugged in, I missed the ignition coil...." Oh jeez...  I'm not being a jerk. Even real mechanics make mistakes. I'm making the point that it is VERY hard to help you, if you won't take the advise that you are asking for. And Griffmeister is right, probably flooded from all the attempts to start it. Opening the throttle on a fuel injected Buell adds air, not gas, but repeated attempts to start will absolutely flood it. Your DDFI-2 bike doesn't have the cool 'spark plug cleaning feature' that the later DDFI-3 bikes have, so you have to pull the plugs clean and dry them well. Go ahead and give it a little crank with the plugs out to purge the wet fuel from the cylinders. Re-intall and start it. Then ride it (not idle it) to full operating temp before shutting it off. Always. Good luck man. | ||
| Skipbarberman |
"Check your plug wires. .... If one is not firing, it has to be localized to the cylinder." Hmmm....Sounds familiar. Even a blind squirrel like me finds a nut some days... XB Blaster - Don't sweat it, just remember this next time. |
