| Author | Message | ||
     Al3x |
Hey guys, I got a 2004 xb12s with a mutt motor. Not exactly sure what the last owner did, but I now have something slapping around inside. Right now I'm either going to try and fix it or swap it for a motor that hasn't been dicked with. I found a 2007 motor for sale on ebay. I've been doing a little bit of research and it seems it will slip right in. I'll be able to use the old wiring harness and throttle body, ect. So is this possible? If so, what should I look out for? The only part that is different I've found so far is the oil feed lines. Any information would be fantastic. Thanks guys. | ||
| Ishampadron |
I went from an 03 to an 07 XB9. The things you'll need are, an updated swing arm with oil lines and fender. I'm guessing you have the 65t wheel pulley, if so your belt will match up. You'll need the new motor sprocket cover. Make sure the injectors on the new motor are clean and spray correctly. Mine were fouled. I think your TB is the same the only thing that is different is the TPS on the 07 is a weird year and you can only use OEM replacements. While you have the motor sitting I would replace the TB gaskets to to be safe. The rest is all plug and pray. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Don't forget that there were a few 2007 engines that had bad crank bearings that didn't show up til 35,000 miles sometimes. If you mention this to the seller, perhaps you could chisel down the price? I don't think anyone here determined a sure fire method of predicting what batch of engines were bad so you would have to just roll the dice. I'm pretty sure that there a good number of 2007 bikes out there with lots and lots of miles. | ||
| Froggy |
It was the 12s with the bad cranks, not the 9s. | ||
| Al3x |
Awesome, thanks for the info guys. I'll give an update when she's fixed/new motor. | ||
| Dualsportdad |
unfortunately that is not the case. my 2007 xb9sx currently has a 05 engine because the 07 crank failed @ 22k miles. i would steer clear of all 2007 engines. | ||
| Froggy |
I never said that the 9 can't have a crank failure, but it was only the 07 12 cranks that had a bad batch from the factory. I've seen examples of 9s and 12s other various years that failed. | ||
| Anonymous |
07 was a bad year for HDs in general. Saw 07 XL1200 crank failures and 07 Twin Cam crank failures in my time at Pikes Peak HD. | ||
| Phelan |
That was me, didn't mean to post as anonymous, sorry. | ||
| Ducbsa |
You guys stop! My 2007 XB12S is going good! | ||
| Sagehawk |
Ditto to what ducbsa said! If you put it out there, it could happen! I just follow what the advice from dark horse about driveability and not worry. Btw, if I put uellymae on the market, I would not not go down on my price to a buyer on the crankshaft note. Bike wouldnt be broke at the time . Buyer is buying a used machine and they would take on the what if's. Just saying! | ||
| Al3x |
Ok the 07 motor was in rough shape and with your feedback I scraped the idea. I've found a 2004 XB12R motor. I've looked around and so far looks like the motor will fit right in with no issue. Is there anything I should know or search for on swapping a 04 XB12S motor with a 04 XB12R motor. Last question if it dose fit with no issue. I`m going a with the Drummer SS Exhaust on the bike. Having a reprogrammed ECM for the XB12S. I`m assuming its good for the XB12R motor of the same year? | ||
| Froggy |
The only difference between the R and S motor is the decal on the timing cover. Everything else is identical, so it is literally just labor to remove and replace the engine. The ECM is identical too. | ||
| Al3x |
Thanks for the info Froggy. I'll update when she`s back up and running. | ||
| Al3x |
Hey Guys, thank you for all the info I picked up a xb12r motor and she fit right in. Taking care of all the oil leaks now. However the "new" motor has a ticking noise I think from the top end. Filled it with oil and ran it for 20-30mins. changed the oil the ticking noise has reduced in noise around 75%, but still ticks. After more idle time and a 2nd oil change after fixing some small leaks I did take it out for a quick 10min test drive, everything feels amazing compared the old engine. I am not taking it out until I figure out this ticking. Should I let it idle more or have someone take a look at it? | ||
| Skipbarberman |
Just one, or both cylinders? If it can be isolated to one cylinder, I would pull the valve cover and see what's going on. If I had to guess, based on what information you've provided, there is a lifter clearance problem. The valve train is 'self-adjusting' but requires adequate oil pressure. The fact that changing the oil has helped, indicates that there could be a partially collapsed lifter, or something loose, causing excessive clearance in the valve train. The lifter will attempt to 'pump-up' to close that clearance, but only to a point (read limit). So, short answer - if only in one cylinder, pull that valve cover. Either a partially collapsed lifter that won't pump-up to take up proper clearance, or excessive clearance because something is loose. If the clacking is in both cylinder heads, I'd check the oil pump. | ||
| Skipbarberman |
Another thought - Not sure what oil weight you are running, but you should try a 10w-40. If the previous owner wasn't diligent on oil changes; either duration or type of oil and there was 'coking' or breakdown, the tiny holes in the lifters can get plugged, causing lack of 'pump-up' or failure to properly bleed down. Sometimes, a lighter weight oil change performed under the proper conditions can fix this. Synthetic oils can prevent this from happening as they are typically more stable than conventional oils, and, have better detergent packages to clean the sludge out. Walmart generally stocks Mobil 10w-40 and 20w50 V-Twin synthetic for ~$10/quart. This is what I run now, (10w-40 crankcase, 20w-50 gearbox) and have had good results, FWIW. Hope this helps. - Sean (Message edited by skipbarberman on April 25, 2019) | ||
| Al3x |
Skip thanks for the input I will try the 10w-40. I also have a few people telling me I have nothing to worry about and might be getting too emotional. Witch maybe true, I've put a lot into my baby this last year. However we are talking about HD folks with bikes that leak oil or dont run. So I made 2 quick videos, let me know what you think. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cIvwRMk6ZVo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhEQz-hznrA | ||
| Skipbarberman |
Can't really hear anything abnormal. I think you're fine. I like the 10w-40 better for the engine. Many of the 'old timers' think the thicker oil is better. Many studies show that the lighter oils flow better and subsequently remove heat better. I tend to agree. | ||
| Al3x |
Ok I was just freaking over nothing. Had a guy say the same thing and also recommended 10w-40. I will definitely try the 10w-40 thanks again for the all the information. |
