Author |
Message |
Ted
| Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2004 - 06:07 pm: |
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A lot of Xb9'ers have drilled out the airbox for more air. Would this negate the need to get a 12 airbox? It would seem to me that drilling holes in a stock box ,more air would pass ,than through a 12 ? |
Odie
| Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2004 - 06:30 pm: |
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Ted, what you are after is the dimple that is on the underside of the 12 airbox lid. Improves airflow/velocity, blah, blah, blah. Worth the few bucks for the 9's. Cut away the airbox when you get it and you will see a huge difference in the way your bike runs and acellerates....Odie |
Lpowel02
| Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2004 - 06:35 pm: |
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the "funnel" shape molded into a 12 airbox that is placed above the velocity stack makes a difference...tho noone has tested precisely how much of a difference. A drilled 12 airbox will get a you a better result than a drilled 9 |
Lpowel02
| Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2004 - 06:36 pm: |
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Odie...you beat me to it... |
Starter
| Posted on Tuesday, November 09, 2004 - 10:30 pm: |
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Plus the drill airbox makes the bike roar. And I mean ROAR with intake noise. |
Racertroy
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 09:08 am: |
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i've heard it's possible to drill too many holes in the 12 retro-fit...ideal is 7 holes, 3/8", in the top (not in the filter area)...dyno results by those in the know (read: not me!) confirm gains in the 3-4 hp range when combined with Buell Race Filter...i've got one on order and hope to confirm in the next month or so...will advise ciao, --ts |
Ingemar
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 11:58 am: |
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If you plan on drilling it full of holes, spare yourself some time and remove the cover. Just leave the cone over the airfilter and secure it. |
Glitch
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 12:05 pm: |
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What Ingemar said. I had mine drilled at first, now I've done the Odie intake mod (heat shield & cut out air box), the difference is amazing. Dyno Saturday. |
Racertroy
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 12:22 pm: |
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i'm intriguied...do you have a pic of the suspended vortex cone mod? thanks, --ts |
Cowtown
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 12:25 pm: |
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The fit of the filter to the air box base and cut away funnel is so tight you could probably get away without securing it. But just incase, a single nut and bolt like Odie used is fine, hate to have the thing come loose and bounce around inside the air box cover. I used 2 nuts and bolts just because I had 2 holes to fill after rerouting the puke tubes. IMO puke tubes have no business inside the air filter. |
Glitch
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 12:36 pm: |
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IMO puke tubes have no business inside the air filter. I'm with ya there, makes a mess of the throttle body. |
Ted
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 01:08 pm: |
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Great info , thanks! |
Glitch
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 01:16 pm: |
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Ted, if you decide to move (NOT remove) the puke tubes, be sure they have some sort of catch can, and are still acting as a vent. They are there for a reason, just in the wrong place IMHO. |
M1combat
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 01:42 pm: |
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What ARE you guys doing to re-route the puke tubes? |
Glitch
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 02:23 pm: |
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I used a "T" and then a small piece of left over tube to a catch can. Then wire tied it in place under the airbox bottom. If you need help with a catch can just do a search for catch can, make sure to point the search engine to the Knowledge Vault. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 02:38 pm: |
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After spending several years putzing with that stupid venting arrangement on my Cyclone, I am happy to just route it back into the intake again, especially with the substantially lower pukage factor of the XB heads. I got tired of leaving little oil spots everywhere I went, or draining catch cans, and generally just having more non standard tubes laying around bothering me, or spraying oil over my clothing and driveway. I used some velcro cable ties and o-rings to fasten my cut off cover down. Holding up fine so far. Pictures of it posted around here somewhere... |
Ingemar
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 02:39 pm: |
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I drilled a hole in my swing arm and reroute the puked oil back into the system .... just kidding guys!! |
Cowtown
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 03:18 pm: |
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Here’s how I ran the breathers. I turned the valves so they are pointed at each other along the right side of the frame. I ran a hose between them with a T in the middle pointing down. I cut just enough hose to use as a connector to attach another T with the ends pointing down and forward. I ran a clear hose, so I can see when any oil collects, down a couple of inches past the frame and plugged it. I ran another hose forward and up over the rocker cover following the curve of the frame along the front and then back along the left side of the frame and attached a crankcase filter behind the coil. |
Lovematt
| Posted on Wednesday, November 10, 2004 - 07:49 pm: |
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I just used a couple of pieces of foam on top of the 12 air filter cover to hold it down. Bought a couple of those big sponges used for paint cleaning (figure 8 shape) for about 3 dollars and shaved one of them to fit the inside of the airbox cover (what you see). When I put the airbox cover on to bolt it down there is about a 3" gap...just shove it down and then put the bolts in. I found the difference in acceleration especially improved from 4000-6000 RPM. This is on a 9 with a stock muffler drilled out a bit with four 3/8" holes in it...no other mods done other than the Pro-Series plugs. (Message edited by lovematt on November 10, 2004) |
Hogs
| Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 12:55 pm: |
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Just a few pictures of mine... Works Great and sounds betterrrrrrrrr... Air box inner is basically the same as Odies and cowtown... Just have foam on top of mine to hold it down... Seems okay to date...
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Glitch
| Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 01:11 pm: |
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Wow Hogs! That is impressive. |
Odie
| Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 01:16 pm: |
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Hogs, that cover looks sweet! I am doing something similar this winter. Should look good...Odie |
Ingemar
| Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 02:32 pm: |
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HOGS! THAT ROCKS MAN! Can you post pictures of the inside? How did ya attach them? Is it plastic? Way cool! Ingemar. |
Racertroy
| Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 02:43 pm: |
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great innovation guys...very impressive...do you have any feedback on performance...dyno or seat-of-the-pants? |
Hogs
| Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 05:42 pm: |
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Hey guys thanks.... Hey Ingemar its aluminum its sold through performance shops for those that want to use it for their front grills in their car bumpers you know like honda's etc. etc its Ractive the company...they sell stuff for cars like air intakes, strut braces etc.etc ..8" by 4' enough to do two buells real light and tough grill... part # maybe =142065... Just rough up the plastic with 80 grit etc. inside about a 1/4 inch or so around your opening and use a good fast setup 2 part epoxy (one that will mate those two materials) etc., overlap your grill that 1/4" on the inside all is done get it anywheres at car supplies shops... cost = $30.00 and a lot of time... Been Highway Tested all is GooD :-) |
Lpowel02
| Posted on Thursday, November 11, 2004 - 05:56 pm: |
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Hogs...very nice...I like it |
Henrik
| Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 09:56 am: |
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Hogs; so you "just" laid out and cut the hole in the cover and sanded/buffed the edges? What did you use to do the cutting? Henrik |
Ted
| Posted on Friday, November 12, 2004 - 01:36 pm: |
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cool. kind of a cro-magnon CityX ! Must make for a loud intake ..? |
Hogs
| Posted on Friday, December 10, 2004 - 01:52 pm: |
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Hahahah rough edges there were lotssssssss have to hand file all of then after first rough cutting :-)) |
Wahmbush
| Posted on Saturday, October 08, 2005 - 02:17 pm: |
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Hogs...sorry bout the pm...after sent read the rest of your post and found the answer... |