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Mattc55
| Posted on Saturday, February 17, 2018 - 08:24 pm: |
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Hello Everyone! I am back on board, on the board. I had an M2 that I rode for a year or so, traded it off for a family vehicle and am now able to get back to what I love; riding! I just purchased a 2004 XB12R for 2,600. I was told mechanically it was fine, just had some cosmetic flaws. While I found this mostly to be true, once I got the bike home and really got to inspect it, I found a major problem. Where the bolt is supposed to go through my clutch linkage into the primary has been wallered out immensely and has been replaced by a normal bolt with washers.... I am at a crossroads here; Can it be helicoiled? Should I see if someone can tig the hole shut and re-tap it? Buy new linkage and use the second, higher hole? As you will see in my pictures, the bushing that goes inside my linkage is also gone and has been ground on by the regular washer this kid had installed. The bolt will go in actually stay put for a while (I made it around town without figuring it out obviously) but it is just asking to fall out with one decent ride. Any advice would help! Then, onto more issues.. Regardless I am still more than pleased with the bike and will post pics once it's cleaned up! Thank you guys so much.
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Greg_e
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 12:09 am: |
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It looks like there should be enough for a helicoil, I'd get one and look to see how much metal will be left. To fix the lever, you may need to drill and put in a larger diameter bushing or pick up a used lever. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 12:11 am: |
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Also, don't punch all the way through when doing the thread insert or it will leak. Welding would probably be best, but could warp the cover. |
Skipbarberman
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 09:21 am: |
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Clean it out REALLY good with brake clean and a brush, and take some more pics. I think there is enough there to fix/hold, but I want to really see how 'boogered' the threads are. Also, it looks like never-seize (anti-seize compound) on there.....bad idea. I did that when I initially went through my bike, and on the first ride, the fasteners fell out in a corner. You actually need threadlocker on that stuff due to the use/vibration. I'd try to restore it to the stock pivot bolt; either by using oversize bushings or replacing the lever. On the case, I'd heli-coil or replace the cover. not really a big deal, just extremely annoying. I'm continually amazed at how people repair things that keep their asses off the asphalt. (Message edited by skipbarberman on February 18, 2018) |
Skipbarberman
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 09:25 am: |
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That lever is fine I suspect.....that looks like the black bushing in there, just coated with never-seize. I think you'll be OK. Again, CLEAN everything really well, and take some more pics. |
1_mike
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 12:12 pm: |
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Yea, as has been said, clean the hole, tap and install a helicoil. Go slowly putting the helicoil threads into the aluminum casting. You may need to modify the Helicoil tap by flattening or removing all unneeded material on the end of the tap to get the threads deep enough. A little light grind stone or belt sanding will fix this. Use a fine file and carefully clean the roughed up "flat" surfaces. Deburr everything well. Clean everything, reassemble. Use some lite grease on the fastener, bushing, torque to factory spec. All should be fine. I would not hesitate to do this repair this way on my own daily driver bike. Mike |
Mattc55
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 04:08 pm: |
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Skip, I tried to take pictures but of course, couldn't get them as clear as I wish. I suspect half of the threads remaining are "good", first half all boogered up. I do not have a pivot bolt, all this guy had holding it together was a 1/2" bolt and 1 washer... Luckily the bushing is still intact like Skip said, just a little tore up! I have never helicoiled into aluminum, hope all goes well..
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Greg_e
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 04:47 pm: |
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Helicoil in aluminum was a standard thing in Beetle motors to hold the cylinder studs in place. |
Phelan
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 05:04 pm: |
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I have an 06 primary cover in good condition with shift shaft, if you end up needing to re0lace it and want to update to the larger diameter shift shaft as well for firmer shifts and less likelihood of bending. $100+shipping for the primary cover and shift shaft. I also have Cometic gaskets for the swap for another $30. |
Mattc55
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 05:20 pm: |
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Oh; And A stupid question I suppose... What size would I tap it out to? If I have to go to larger diameter I suppose the stock bolt and linkage will no longer work? Phelan, if I botch the helicoil, I will take you up on the entire set! I will have to do a little research to see if the 06 will fit, but if it will that sounds like a good deal. |
Ducbsa
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 05:32 pm: |
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Helicoil kits come with the special tap you need for the helicoil thread form, maybe also the special diameter tap drill, but I don't remember from when I used one. This company http://www.essentracomponents.com/en-us/psearch?pr oductId=77759&categoryId=140058&imperial-metric-70 00000000000000050=imperial&facet=ads_f171501_ntk_c s%253A%25225%252F16-18%2522 has inserts that use standard taps and drills, but I don't know if they have stainless versions that would be good to have. |
Phelan
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 05:38 pm: |
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06-10 primary cover will fit 03-05 bikes if you change out the shift shaft, which I am including with the cover. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 07:22 pm: |
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Make sure to take the cover off the engine before you try to drill it. |
Shoggin
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 07:48 pm: |
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It is a simple job for any mechanic, and he will already own the tools so it might be cheaper to just bring a 6 pack to your local garage and ask for help nicely. I had the same issue with the STT (that had been dropped a LOT) so the hole was messed up. Instead of a whole new cover (or the heli-coil), I drilled, tapped to a much larger 3/8"-16 and used a bolt with a shoulder that fit in the levers bushing without the sleeve. It works perfectly and is MUCH stronger because its bigger and you can seat the bolt to a higher torque without stiffening the lever pivot at all because of the shoulder. Like this one:https://goo.gl/images/r78bJh (Message edited by shoggin on February 18, 2018) |
Mattc55
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 08:42 pm: |
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Dang Shoggin, just might have to try that; I will attempt the helicoil and if that fails, may just tap it larger as you said. Thank you guys for the great input, i'll report back this week! |
Shoggin
| Posted on Sunday, February 18, 2018 - 09:54 pm: |
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There is plenty of meat there and its much easier, requiring only a normal (5/16") drill bit and regular 3/8"-16 tap. If you attempt it yourself (easy job) Mark how deep the hole is with a smaller bit and put a tape mark on the 5/16" bit to make sure you don't go to far. |
Ducbsa
| Posted on Monday, February 19, 2018 - 05:38 am: |
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Good plan. Better hardware stores have those bolts, so you may not need to order it. |
Shoggin
| Posted on Monday, February 19, 2018 - 03:44 pm: |
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True Value or Ace for sure. The hole in the primary is plenty deep for the standard shouldered bolt thread length. Take your shifter with you to make sure the smooth part of the shoulder is the right diameter and the length is slightly longer, so when you torque the bolt its not binding up the lever. You can use "wave washers" (also from Ace) to take up a little extra play.
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Greg_e
| Posted on Monday, February 19, 2018 - 05:02 pm: |
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Nice force gauge, does it work well and with both upshift and downshift? |
Ducbsa
| Posted on Monday, February 19, 2018 - 05:52 pm: |
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OMG, there's a severed foot under your bike! |
Shoggin
| Posted on Monday, February 19, 2018 - 06:17 pm: |
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Not a force gauge, just a 'pull' switch (Dynojet 4-113). Any '08-up (DDFI-3) ECM has it built in. It won't rev-match downshifting, you'd need ride by wire throttle to make that effective. You can enable it using ECMDroid (free and the easiest), ECMSpy, or Tunerpro. I found the info at Buelltooth.com Seriously... I'd say it is the BEST mod I've done to her. Makes riding so much fun! And this I did for under $50 total yesterday This guy did a better job on BuellXB: https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?53843-DIY-Cheap-steering-damper LOVE it, so far! Sorry for the hijack..... (Message edited by shoggin on February 19, 2018) |
Shoggin
| Posted on Monday, February 19, 2018 - 06:19 pm: |
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Ducbsa: Flip flops in February, don't be a hater So Cal FTW! LOL! |
Mattc55
| Posted on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 - 08:20 pm: |
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Problem solved! I probably over-engineered this, but let's just say.. it's super solid. Went with a fine thread 3/8, with locknut for extra measure... I appreciate all of your input and help; That's the reason I joined this forum years ago, and still only use this one! Also, side note, should this thread have been posted in the tech knowledge area? I don't want to clutter up the wrong area of the forum! |
Skipbarberman
| Posted on Tuesday, February 27, 2018 - 08:32 pm: |
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I'd think you were fine posting here..... Congrats on getting 'er back in the game. This really is the best one, isn't it? |
Mattc55
| Posted on Wednesday, February 28, 2018 - 11:56 am: |
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Hands down; I thought my m2 was fast... |
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