| Author | Message | ||
     Nick |
Hi, I said I'd let the board know what I thought of the CityX once it arrived. Well, it's rained nearly everyday, but I have been out a couple of times. On Sat, it even stayed dry for me. As I'm keeping it below 3K, I can't get a good feel for the motor, but it pulls nice below this. Strange how much travel there is in the throttle after riding GSXR's and the like. When does the motor pull hard? I guess it's when the revs are way higher than 3K. The handling seems superb, but again, wet weather has prevented mucho lean angle. Two problems so far: 1) Neutral is almost always impossible to get (I have had 2 Triumphs previously, so I know agricultural units......). The shop adjusted the primary chain and adjusted the clutch (from the bottom end) and it's a bit better. 2) Cold starts. Or not starts. As in it doesn't, easily. Took 5 attempts once cold (4C) morning. Been told it should get better. Other than that, the bike rules! Added heated grips (I'm an old '29' now....). Anyone noticed seat moves around a little? Might have to fix it somehow. Purchased some Harley 100 corrosion protector too. Spray it on metaly bits after washing to stop em turning to poo. Will see if it works as I plan on riding through the cold cold salty winter. | ||
| Ingemar |
Good to hear you like the bike. Finding neutrals will get much better after the break in period, and will get smoother over time. Once you switch to Mobil 1 or similar after a few thousand miles it should get a bit better too. In fact, shifting in general gets better. An overfilled primary can cause shifting trouble too. I never had problems with cold starts. I got my bike in the middle of winter when it was freezing my butt off (-8C). One push and it was running. Don't twist the throttle and wait until the engine light goes out. | ||
| Reepicheep |
It does really light up above 3000 RPM. Breakin period was a bear for me as well. I also pulled the snorkel (not the velocity stack), which helped. Also, for some reason, after I was finally able to get about 1000 miles on it and ride it hard a few times (not abuse it, nor leave it at redline, but wind it back up and down through the rev range a number of times on a long rides) it seemed to make more power, sound louder, and run better all around as well. | ||
| Nick |
Superb! Should I pull the snorkel now? Or wait until after the 1000 service? I guess there's plenty of previous posts on the snorkel on here, so I won't ask for an explanation! | ||
| Cowboyup |
When you are in first gear and trying to get to neutral, give the throttle a tiny blip and it goes right in. I have also encountered the starting problem you described. If it doesn't start on the first try, it seems to take quite a few attempts. When you go to start it on a first try make sure you don't let off the starter button too quickly, obviously you don't want to hold it down too long either. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I did my first 500 mile oil change first, then pulled it. It would be easy enough to put back in, so no big deal either way. If I were close to taking it in for a service, I would probably wait until after to pull it. No big deal, just one less thing to explain or fuss over. It's not a huge difference, at least with the stock air filter. Probably a more pronounced difference with the K&N / Race filter. Only time I have had it fussy to start is if I turn it over before the fuel pump comes up to pressure. (Message edited by reepicheep on October 25, 2004) | ||
| Bomber |
the gearbox will likely get more cooperative as it is used -- the unit on my tuber kept getting more and more foot friendly up through about 10K miles, although I wouldn't be surprised to hear the XB series "break in" more rapidly -- primary and clutch adjustment make HUGE diferences, and a good synth primary lube helps too good luck with the break in period -- it's a bear, but worth it! | ||
| Countryx |
Break in? What break in?  Yep... a little touchy getting it into neutral. I use the same trick my wife does on her Sportster...advance the throttle and get the RPM's up a little as you pull the lever up. And it will slide right in...just like the wife's...  | ||
| Xb9er |
Primary fluid level is critical. You should be able to find Neutral first time every time from Day 1. It isn't dependent on break-in. If you follow exactly the way to check the primary fluid level in the Manuals (the directions suck so just find out what the diaphragm clutch spring looks like and fill it up to the bottom of that thing), it will cure this problem immediately. It comes out to about 28 or 29 ounces of fluid. If your bike is new or the dealer changed the fluid, don't be so sure that they didn't just dump in an entire quart. I mean, they charge you for a quart and it's just easy to put in a quart (in fact 1 quart is listed as the primary/trans fluid CAPACITY, which may be true if it is totally dry). If you still have SportTrans in yours, just get rid of it now (regardless of mileage) and use Mobil, H-D or other synthetic oil/gear oil. | ||
| Starter |
Just ride the bike. Don't worry about that break-in garbage. They already beat the crap outta the motor on your behalf before it left the engine plant to make sure it worked. As for neutral it takes a little getting used to the character of the H-D gearbox but you'll soon be able to click it no problems at all. This overfilling of the tranmission seems to be non existant on mine as I dumped the whole quart in till it was nearly leaking out the clutch window (don't worry the bike was upright) and I have never had any of the symptoms listed on this board and the service manual. Paid for it may as well use it....... | ||
| Rigga |
nick......these bikes take some bedding in,and after a gsxr it will feel strange,i too have had triumphs and the buell gearbox does even feel rougher than those.....give it time and all will be well.....primary chain will bed in a lot over the first couple of thousand miles,it will need regular check and adjust until grooves are worn in the guide surface and its all bedded in nicely,very simple to do though....this makes a big difference to gear selection and finding neutral....also change the gearbox oil to something better..got silkolene twin power in mine,though you will find many recomended oils... improved it no end,will do clutchless changes now when needed,although 1st to 2nd is still clunky,and i guess always will be...i too put the whole quart of oil in and no problems at all,bike was very warm when i drained it though..get it run in as soon as possible and you will really get to enjoy the motor once you can fully use it.......always puts a huge smile on my face after a ride even with the weather we have in the uk at the moment.......poss the best bike ive owned?...no question,bloody brilliant mate | ||
| M1combat |
Yeah, just to re-itterate... A few thousand miles, full synth oil and properly adjusted primary chain and she shifts like a Benelli (shotgun that is...). I liken it to a high quality trigger on a fire-arm, but just a tad on the heavy side. The trigger is a very good trigger, just not touchy or "light". The first thing I learned with it is to not try to baby it into gear. Just plain put it in gear. This is ONLY an issue in the least bit between first and second. All the others work flawlessly every time, and I think that in 9660 miles on my 12 I've missed second four or five times. All of them were more my fault if you ask me. | ||
| Jpl9sx |
It was impossible to enter neutral with the bike running when I first bought the CityX. Saw the comment regarding the primary level in the manual and mentioned it to to the dealer at 1K service. Funny part is that I watched the mechanic also try to get neutral and he gave up after about five tries. After the service I can get it in neutral when running but normally on the 2nd try. I will try the rev. tip mentioned in this thread. Never had a problem starting but haven't been in very cold weather. Regarding the seat, mine is rock solid. I know because after 150 miles I am scooting all over it looking for a good spot. Did you give it a good pop with your hand when locking it down ? | ||
| Countryx |
Interesting comment about the seat... I too develop monkey butt at about 150 miles on the CityX...that's about where it runs out of gas too, isn't it?  A coincidence? On the other hand, I can't imagine going 150 miles on the XB9SL I owned previously. By 100 miles my butt and back were finished. 973 miles as of this afternoon. 1000 mile service and race kit VERY soon. | ||
| Glitch |
On the other hand.... Is that because of the seat height, or it's softer, or both, or something else? | ||
| Black_sunshine |
The Low really locks you in and desn't let you move around either. CountryX.....I know what you mean, I have a 9SL | ||
| Countryx |
Yes...you have two options as to your position on the on the low seat...on or off.  With the CityX seat you can move up and back a little...and it seems to facilitate side to side movement quite well... I've been sliding over in the curves like I know how to ride. If you see a guy going 40 in a 35 mph curve, hanging off the bike, and grinning like an idiot...that will be me!  | ||
| Reepicheep |
I agree Country. When ever I started leaning off the Cyclone, it seemed to upset it more then anything. I was much better off hunching down, putting my chin over the inside bar, but keeping my behind on the seat. That seemed to be the sweet spot for cornering. On the 9sx, the thing seems to love me hanging off to the inside. | ||
| Dcmortalcoil |
Like XB said, take a look a the trans fluid level. Difficulty in finding neutral typically means that the fluid level is too high. I replaced trans fluid twice within 2 months. The first time, I dumped the whole quart in. Guess what? Couldn't find the neutral at all when the engine got hot. I dumped the trans fluid completely and added exactly 28oz. Problem solved. |
