| Author | Message | ||
     Blakeaspencer |
I was looking at putting some lower bars on my uly. I'd like to get a bit more of a sporty position and get lower in curves. I'm not sure where to look for bars. I'm not thinking as low as clip-ons, but for sure lower than stock. Should I stick with the same width or narrower? | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
On second thought I might try clip-ons. could they fit above the triple clanp? What kind of modifying would be necessary? | ||
| Ducbsa |
Maybe http://www.woodcraft-cfm.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi? search=action&category=OOOX has some clamps for Uly forks. | ||
| Brother_in_buells |
In the early years of the xb buells ,Americansportbikes sold some crossroads handle bars. They were in between the firebolt and lighting handle bars. | ||
| Froggy |
The easiest option will be to get XB Lightning handlebars, they are a few inches lower, but nowhere near clipon low. They bolt right on, so you can use your stock cables and controls, no adapters needed. All XB Lightnings have the same ergonomics, but depending on what year/model you get the bars will be a different color, or if you get the ones from a XB9SX/XB12STT they have the crossbar in the middle like the Uly does. | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
With just a low fairly straight bar without an intense forward bend to them, would I loose steering lock? I'm thinking just a lower bar would be cheaper and easier to deal with the cables. Would I be putting excessive pressure on the clutch cable with the stock hole in the triple and lower bars? | ||
| Teeps |
I installed Renthal Medium rise bars on my '06 Ulysses, a few months after getting it. Al recommended using the lightening clutch cable and brake line. I was able to reroute the throttle cables, to my liking; but replaced the clutch cable (per Al) and brake line, custom made by HEL Performance. (Message edited by teeps on December 02, 2016) | ||
| Al_lighton |
Some photos: Renthal Lows  Renthal Mediums  Renthal Ultralows on a lightning  1125CR bars with adapters on Uly with fairing conversion  I ran the renthal lows on my 2006 Uly and 2008 Uly, and then when I did the fairing conversion, I changed to the 1-1/8" 1125CR bars with adapters. The 1125CR bars with the adapters were about the same height as the lows, but have a bit less pullback. I personally wouldn't go to clip ons or anything much lower than the lows on a Uly. I have a few leftover sets of Renthal lows in grey, black, or gold, and one set of renthal mediums in gold, and a couple sets of the 1-1/8" adapters if you wanted to go that route. The prices will be very good if you're interested, PM me. I would have linked you to some other photos that used to be in the American Sport Bike section, but that section has been completely deleted from badweb so I can't. | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
Why do you say nothing lower than the lows? I also have a set of rox risers I can use for longer trips. I'm moving from a rural area to a bigger city, so I'm planning on doing more street oriented riding, so I don't see the need for the big adventure bars anymore. Does anybody have the measurements on the clamp area width? | ||
| Al_lighton |
The seat cup on a Uly is a bit further back than on a lightning or a firebolt. For me, if the bars are too low, I'm scrunched too far forward on the seat. But if you're 6'5" with long arms, maybe lower bars would be a good thing. I have a lot more pictures of the different bars. PM me and I can send a bunch to you. | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
I didn't think of that, I can see how the reach would be uncomfortable. I'm 6'1" with a 6'7" wingspan. I'm concerned the bars and controls are going to contact the airbox lid. Do you guys see this as being a problem? | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If you want crazy low, don't forget the clubman style bars that they put on some 1125CR bikes. Those would probably be sucky on a ulysses though. Since the diameter of the bars is a standard 7/8", you may have good luck shopping for dirtbike bars at a Jap dealership. | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
I just installed the renthal street low bars on my uly(bought from Al). I love them. I think I will re-rout the clutch cable and maybe the front brake line due to the exessive bending to get through the top triple. I haven't done any riding yet because it's 20°F out now. But I think they are a perfect fit for me. | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
Something I didn't think about. The bar ends I used with the stock bars held the handguards, but with the renthals the inner diameter is less. So I'm going to need some new bar ends. Does anybody know of some bar ends that will hold the handguards and fit into the renthal bars? | ||
| Al_lighton |
Alternately, if you have access to a silver and deming type (reduced shank) 3/4" diameter drill bit, you can bore the I.D. of the last 1.5" or so of the aluminum bars so that it will accept normal bar ends. I've done that before, it's pretty easy to do in place. | ||
| Ducbsa |
Al, do you mean you free hand it? I had assumed that you had to clamp it on the drill press table turned vertical. Tough on my bench top Jet! | ||
| Al_lighton |
Yup, on the bike, in place with a hand drill. It's not like you're drilling into a solid rod of aluminum, the bore that is already there is something like 1/2" on the thick wall aluminum bars. So it's pretty easy to take it to 3/4" by letting the drill follow the existing bore if you take it slow and use some oil. You could probably do it easiest by doing it in two passes, once with a 5/8" bit and then follow it with the 3/4" bit, but I've done it in one pass before. You're only going in 1-1.5 inches, just enough space for the bar end. | ||
| Phelan |
I bored out the end of my FatBar to accept the stock bar end handguard mounts. | ||
| Al_lighton |
We also used to sell a cheap kit to do this using two well nuts, a couple washers, and a long screw.  The well nut fit the stock renthal bore almost perfectly. | ||
| Ducbsa |
Thanks, did you carve the flange off one of the well nuts? | ||
| Al_lighton |
No need to remove the flange. It's thin and keeps the well nut from slipping too deep into the bar during installation. | ||
| Ducbsa |
Thanks, I will try it in a steel handlebar, the pressed steel part wedged outwards loosens too often, so I am looking for improvements. | ||
| Al_lighton |
The well nut solution won't work in a thin wall steel bar. The bore is way too large. But it works well in the thick wall renthal aluminum bars. | ||
| Teeps |
I used a lag shield with SS sheet metal screw to secure the stock Ulysses hand guards, to the Renthal bars. Clean the inside of the bar, lag shield, and screw with alcohol. Apply a smear of RTV of your choice to the lag shield and screw threads, then install. (Message edited by teeps on December 28, 2016) | ||
| Blakeaspencer |
Hey I like that idea, do you know what size parts you used? | ||
| Teeps |
Sorry but no. | ||
| 34nineteen |
I'm selling a straight, uncrashed Lightning handlebar $25 + ship I'm in Phoenix, so it shouldn't be too much to ship. I just installed a black Renthal low bar. |
