| Author | Message | ||
     Bykemike |
Thus caught my eye, picking it up Thursdayhttps://mikeperreault.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery /i-VsdkN48/A | ||
| Griffmeister |
Is that a factory race exhaust? Looks real nice. | ||
| Homie |
Firebolts just do it for me, certainly does look very nice. | ||
| Bykemike |
That is the factory PRO can, dual outlets. The bike the signed 25th anniversary model which actually means nothing to me, at least it is subtle. Seems to need a rear brake light switch, nothing else right now. When I get it back to my shop I will give it a once over...and then buy a bunch of stuff  | ||
| Bykemike |
A question, there is a module mounted on the dash called a "Twin Tuner" by Daytona Twin Tech. Some lights and a digital read out, maybe an adjustment knob, what does this do? | ||
| Hughlysses |
When I get it back to my shop I will give it a once over...and then buy a bunch of stuff Hi Mike- Glad to see you found your way from ADVrider onto Badweb. The most important thing you can do with a new XB is to setup the suspension. Proper suspension adjustment makes a huge difference in the handling of the bike. Just follow the recommendations of the owner's manual based on your weight (with gear) and only fine-tune from there if necessary. Don't forget to check tire pressures as well. The only other quirk I can think of for a new 2008 XB owner is how to check the oil level. The 08-up engines are kind of finicky about getting an accurate oil level. What most of us do is to ride the bike until it's hot, park it and leave it running on the side stand (forks pointed straight ahead), and check the oil level with the engine still idling. As long as the oil level is showing on the lower half of the dipstick, you're good. If you try to carry the oil level higher than that (like at the top of the dipstick), the excess oil gets blown into the airbox (stock breather setup) or into your catch can (aftermarket breather setup). This is not the procedure recommended by the owner's manual, but a lot of us have found it works well. At an oil change, the bike will hold 2.5 quarts of oil including the filter. When doing an oil change, it's good practice to pre-fill the oil filter as much as possible. Otherwise you can get an air bubble in the system that can take forever to work out. If you do an oil change with 2.5 quarts total, ride the bike until it's hot, and then check the oil, you'll see where the "full" level should be on the dipstick for future reference. | ||
| Bykemike |
What oil are we running in these? I cannot believe I am asking oil questions. sheesh,flame away I am looking to maybe get the Twin Tuner off there and just go stock, don't like add on usually | ||
| Reepicheep |
Any quality 20w50 full synthetic is good. The wet clutch is a different chamber than the crankcase, so you aren't constrained like you are on bikes that share the engine and transmission oil. Amsoil sponsored a Buell racer, and seems to be good oil. Mobil 1 VTwin full synthetic is top notch stuff and easy to find. | ||
| Hughlysses |
I'd guess about 95% of us run what Bill suggests (me included). We do have one long-time Uly rider here that swears by single weight conventional oil. IIRC, the viscosity recommended in the owner's manual for hot environments is 60W, which you can get from HD. He claims running this oil really quiets down the engine, which does make a lot of mechanical noise. | ||
| Teeps |
IMO there is NO BAD oil; just oil that is perceived/tested(?) to be better. Also IMO, oil change interval is, WAY, more important than which oil you choose to use. That said, I change the engine oil at 3000 miles. I've used Valvoline, Mobil 1 V-Twin, Shell Rotella, in weights from 15w40 to (straight 60; currently in the engine.) The Ulysses did not seem to care; and I didn't notice any difference in noise produced by the engine. Primary/Transmission fluid: changed at same interval as engine oil; I've only used H/D Formula +. There have been reports of stator failure due to the "WRONG" oil being used in the primary/transmission. (Message edited by teeps on December 01, 2016) | ||
| Bykemike |
Just picked this bike up this morning at 9 am and rode about 120 miles getting it back to my shop. Runs great, tons of pull, hasn't had 50 miles on it over the last year so it is running a lot better than at first, idles nicely , feels a little lean at times. I am about to do an oil/filter, clean it up a bit, ordered new front pads a min ago, all the usual stuff. Fast on the highway no doubt, 4 th gear most of the way, 5th over 85. The cooling fan runs maybe 4 mins after shut down...normal? pops a lot on decell, look for an airleak? Has the factory PRO dual outlet system on it, sounds perfect during acceleration. | ||
| Nillaice |
hopefully you ordered a set of sintered pads. EBC HH's are my favorite. the OEM pads often cause a 'pulsing' braking effect at the when and similar feeling at the lever. cooling fan and temp sensor sounds like its doing fine. if the fan ever starts rattling/surging it might be on its last legs. you can order a replacement motor/blade and re-use the housing/shroud Spal 30103013 5.2" Paddle Blade Pusher Fan popping on decal means its running rich. you can reset the TPS and maybe re-flash the ECM or try to tune it a little better, but I wouldn't let it keep you up at night as long as you're not fouling plugs. BTW the ECM lets you do some cool stuff on the 08+ bikes without hooking it up to a computer. To reset an 08+ Buell, do the following: 1. Turn on the key. 2. Set the kill switch to the run position. 3. Don't start the engine. Rotate the throttle from fully closed (gently forced closed) to fully open (gently held open), and then back again to closed (gently forced closed). 4. Repeat 3 times. Hold each position (fully open, fully closed) for 1 full second. 5. Turn the key off and on. | ||
| Teeps |
Nillaice Posted on Thursday, December 01, 2016 - if the fan ever starts rattling/surging it might be on its last legs. you can order a replacement motor/blade and re-use the housing/shroud Spal 30103013 5.2" Paddle Blade Pusher Fan Fan how to here: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/762330.html | ||
| Bykemike |
Yes, those are the pads I ordered. Fan is nice and smooth running, no issue but it just seemed like it was running a long time. This bike has some kind of module on it, it is a Twin Tuner by Daytona twin tech. I emailed them but it appears they are out of business. The previous owner of the bike says it is set to zero and not doing anything but I would like to remove it, I just don't want to screw something up..I prefer stock if possible. I just did the oil change, am about to do the primary now, removed some stickers. This could easily be the most bike I have ever gotten for the money, feels every bit as good as my 996 without all the esoterica. I am enthused but a little nervous, I tagged 100 mph on the way home 3 or 4 times, never even noticed, except everyone else was going so slow | ||
| Teeps |
A bit late now; but don't over torque the drain plugs. 12 to 15Lb/Ft is plenty tight. | ||
| Bykemike |
Some pictures of the exhaust, the tuner and misc stuff: https://mikeperreault.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery /i-sz3vW4L https://mikeperreault.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery /i-zxdJv5k https://mikeperreault.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery /i-PsC4gfL https://mikeperreault.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery /i-QMRq6x3 https://mikeperreault.smugmug.com/My-First-Gallery /i-Rd3N9TG | ||
| Froggy |
Once you yank that Twin Tuner junk off, get one of these: http://www.erikbuellracing.net/store/models/xb12/x b12-preprogrammed-ecm.html Pick 2008, and Pro Series exhaust. That should take care of your popping, also it has different fan programming so it is much less likely to run the fan after shutdown. | ||
| Bykemike |
Thanks froggy good lead | ||
| 651lance |
we also stock most of the preprogrammed ECMs from IDS. EBR sells there performance ECMs for more then retail. We sell ours for $300 plus $9.95 shipping. | ||
| Bykemike |
Thanks Lance | ||
| Bykemike |
Update here: Spent today putting on my new Drummer SS and, after a few hours work, took it out for a few miles. Kevin said it would be a big change well that was an understatement, this bike is reborn and not just a little scary, what a difference . If it wasn't so cold here today and getting dark I would have cranked on a lot more miles. Power seems to be everywhere on the band now, no flat spot like the prorace can and a very nice sound as well. Thanks Kevin! | ||
| M1combat |
Good choice on pipe | ||
| Slaughter |
One thing - popping on decel is often a bad or poorly mounted exhaust header at the flange/port... or a bad exhaust gasket. XB is a fun bike but as others have said, when you get the suspension and brakes dialled in, it comes alive. The race ECM "tunes out" the hole in mid-range and gives a more predictable throttle. |
