| Author | Message | ||
     Homie |
Not much information in the service manual about these port gaskets. I would like to replace them if possible. Has anyone removed them?   | ||
| Jim2 |
I believe the XB exhaust port gaskets are the same as Sportster 1200. I'm a tuber guy so someone correct me if I'm wrong. You should be able to get the gaskets at any HD parts counter, or many aftermarket places. I prefer the flat Screaming Eagle type gaskets but there is also a cone shaped type available. Just use a pick or small flat-blade to reach under the old gasket and gently lift it out. Clean-up surface if needed. Evenly fit the new gaskets in until they seat, press the header pipe against both exhaust gaskets evenly as you start the retainer nuts. Tighten evenly on both nuts and both cylinders (you can do it with 1 knee and 3 hands, easy <\sarc>  . Torque to Factory Service Manual torque specs. I've purchased additional Jamb-nuts from Ace H/W to ensure the exhaust clamps don't come off. If your retaining C-clips (spring clips) are rusted you might want to replace them. I've had one break in half causing me to loose a brand new exhaust gasket. | ||
| Homie |
Thanks Jim, I ordered new... the rusty clips and the nuts were loose thus the damaged gasket I guess. Taking your advise and heading for the hardware store. Stainless nuts might be nice. Thanks for the procedure, don't know why the SM won't talk me through the header install and ID these gaskets, probably assumes experience  MUCH APPRECIATED! Hang with me for the next big dummy question if you can. I have tried gunk gel, brass brush and even brake fluid soaks over night. Gave up and ordered piston kits today. What would Jim have done?  | ||
| 651lance |
I would stick with the factory tapered gasket. Using the tapered gasket will allow the header to set how it wants to sit. Using the SE thin gaskets won't let the header sit the way it wants to putting unneeded stress on the already hard to get header. The gasket is the same one used from 1983 thru today. You really aren't going to gain any real noticeable air flow using the thin ones. The nuts are a lock nut that should only be used once or twice, after that they loose there ability to keep them self from backing off. Dual nuts aren't needed if using new ones. The nuts are also the same from 1983 thru today.. If the retaining ring or the exhaust flange are twisted or bent in any way replace them. Do not over torque the nuts, if you do you'll break off the stud. | ||
| Submax |
I just finished replacing these gaskets as part of replacing my exhaust header. The hardest part (other than doing the engine rotate, which wasn't bad) was getting the new gaskets in the ports without squishing them too badly. I found this video about replacing the same gaskets on a Harley very useful...especially the advice about using a 50mm wheel bearing race installer tool to get them started in the port. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v8suwaaGFCI | ||
| Homie |
Oo absolutely lance, shout out to NewCastle for the proper gaskets and nuts and since the SM won't say what torque, what would you tighten them exhaust flange nuts to? (Message edited by homie on November 17, 2016) | ||
| 1313 |
and since the SM won't say what torque, what would you tighten them exhaust flange nuts to?   | ||
| Homie |
Now that's just scary, I was looking at the wrong section thanks. Must be getting old. Next quest is a hone tool, I see ebay has a variety http://www.ebay.com/itm/FLEX-HONE-TOOL-GBD40024-Fl exible-Cyl-Hone-Bore-Dia-4in-240-Grit-/33134621963 4?hash=item4d25c61272:g:v7cAAOSwOyJX-QZn | ||
| Submax |
Be careful, though. The exhaust rings actually won't end up seating "flush with the engine." There is a torque spec in the manual. | ||
| Tazwolf |
I used James Gaskets, they are a copper ring instead of the gauze. Really easy to install by using a bit of antisieze to hold them in place | ||
| Homie |
I do appreciate the advice, there was clearly a leak at the rear exhaust port as I found buildup under the gasket. I will look into the James gaskets Taz thanks. As for everything else at 25k no more surprises. I have no experience with this kind of work it's 99 percent service manual, one percent Homie. | ||
| Homie |
Parts are coming in from New Castle, should be fun to reassembly. Destroyed the isolator but found a used one on ebay to get the engine back up off the deck until March's BO. Piston carbon baffles me but ordered new piston kits anyway. Replacing lifters, rods, rockers/bearings, gaskets every moving part at 25k on the top-end. So might be awesome if I understand the SM... could be KABOOM if I don't | ||
| Homie |
Good work if you can get it  |
