Author |
Message |
Ochoa0042
| Posted on Monday, February 01, 2016 - 06:05 pm: |
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Looks like the rear exhaust bolt on the rear jug completely sheared off. How should I fix this? The exhaust if held on by two bolts at each exhaust exit. The bolt was missing when I found it like this and there is still a large piece of the bolt inside the jug. I'm sure that this cannot be easily removed by a home depot bolt removal kit because of the all the heat stresses that area has been displaced to. Since this is not an ordinary object, its a rear exhaust cylinder, the size and shape to get a good hold on it is going to take some machining and bracing from an experienced machinist / mechanic. advice? |
Teeps
| Posted on Monday, February 01, 2016 - 06:35 pm: |
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In order to gain "proper access" I'm guessing at the very least you are in store for an engine rotation. From there it's up to your skills and/or confidence in the extraction of the broken bolt. This will go a long way to a successful repair: http://www.amazon.com/Jims-Exhaust-Stud-Drill-Plat e/dp/B000WK3IZM or The option of E.D.M. removal is available at considerable expense. http://www.brokentap.com/ Of course this service is likely available in your area, too. |
Griffmeister
| Posted on Monday, February 01, 2016 - 08:21 pm: |
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Yeah, rotating the engine is a must. After that you need to take the header off and remove what's left of the gasket to really evaluate the situation. If there's some stud sticking out you may get lucky and grab it with something to remove it. If it's close to flush then you're going to be drilling. The guide plate would help, I broke a stud a couple of years ago and drilled it out freehand. Not an easy task. Expect to see some damage to the gasket seat, you should be okay though as long as there's still some material to support the gasket. It may not be an easy job, but you can do it with a little patience. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Wednesday, February 03, 2016 - 04:03 pm: |
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This reminds me that I really should finish making my exhaust stud drilling tool. Does anyone know if this same tool fits 88ci Harley Twin Cam engines? Spacing looks close and header port size looks close, but I haven't measured. [edit] Looks like it will fit my Harley making it even more useful. (Message edited by Greg_E on February 03, 2016) |
Frinzo
| Posted on Friday, February 12, 2016 - 11:31 pm: |
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You are going to have to remove engine from frame to get a good angle to drill that stud out. I would recommend getting the drill plate. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 10:15 am: |
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Just rotate the engine and pull the head, no need for the whole thing to come out. |
Hogs
| Posted on Saturday, February 13, 2016 - 11:45 am: |
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Enough room there maybe with a good welder he can Mig. weld a Nut through the center to tack the broken stud to the nut, and then work it out with a Wrench etc.? |
Fast1075
| Posted on Friday, February 19, 2016 - 02:38 pm: |
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Pull the head and send it to Wes and Pammy at Cycle Rama. Heck, pull both heads and have them freshen them up while you are at it. Excellent barely describes their quality of work. |
Hemicbx
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2016 - 04:20 pm: |
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Here's how I did it: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/327 77/692626.html?1347145067 |
Teeps
| Posted on Wednesday, March 09, 2016 - 06:45 pm: |
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Bookmarking that link... just in case. |
Mnscrounger
| Posted on Thursday, March 10, 2016 - 04:26 pm: |
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I built a stud drilling fixture, then used a 3/16" left handed cobalt drill to get through the center of the stud. That relieves the pressure on the threads. Once through I removed the fixture and just stepped up to the next size left hand drill, until it grabbed and backed out the screw. I did need to use a drill extension to clear all the parts of the bike. It was lot of time and money in parts to put this together, but nothing compared to what a head removal and shop costs would be. I also have the part as an .stl file for those of you with CNC or 3D printer access.
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