| Author | Message | ||
     Jerseyguy |
I'm about to replace my headers with the ones I just got Jet-Hot coated. I see that the service manual says I need new gaskets. I've got 3K miles on the bike and I was wondering if I can get away with using the same gaskets. I know it may not be good practice, but I am interested on what you guys have done. It also says you need a special tool for the O2 sensor. Is that really the case? Daves - have you got the gaskets in stock & how much are they? | ||
| M1combat |
You only need the special tool for the O2 if you can't get a wrench on it I think... Or at least that's how my truck is. It's a socket with a slot for the wires I think. | ||
| Odie |
Buy a cheapo socket that fits it (deepwell) and the cut the side just enough to let the wire slide thru with a cutoff tool, chop saw, etc. and stash in your rollaway for future use!!! Odie | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Odie - Thanks for the tip. Drummer's off, rear shock & fan out. No Problem. The O2 sensor - problem. Looks like a 7/8 open end fits, but its a bit big (prob need metric) and its on an angle. Thats a sure way to round off the corners of a nut. I was going to try a claw wrench, but I think I'll go with Odie's suggestion. I have some high temp never seize at work that I need too. One more thing, I loosened 3 of the header nuts and they were very loose. One was almost just hand tight. I'm wondering if they need to be looked after on a regular basis. | ||
| Coyote_xb12s |
I would say you do need to check those nuts on the headers, mine vibrated right off! | ||
| Darthane |
Jersey, how are you kolding up the rear end with the suspension out? ...I'm still deciding if I want to tackle this before the bike goes in the garage for winter. Your experience will likely be the deciding factor. LOL | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Darthane - I have my floor jack with a block of 4x4 supporting the bike under the rear muffler mount area. The rear axle is 20 turns out for idler pulley removal. I have a 2x4 under the kickstand. It seems very stable. I've probably got over an hour into it so far. I still have to deal with the O2 sensor. I think it is 22 mm but I wish I knew for sure before I buy the deep socket. It was a damp 41 degrees here this morning so I didn't miss my morning ride to work. | ||
| Hogs |
Hey Jerseyguy NICE... just like da movies A quick time ,Time within the hour say blow by blow,step by step.. on how to do it..How can one go wrong with these directions here..nothing like doing a job yourself...Just got the Mrs. xb12SCG back from the dealer we rode say 50 miles then checked the oil hmm seem a little full so I choose to get it within specs .I like it just abit above the add mark ..upon checking the oil drain I put a wrench on it yeah it was LOOSE one of the reasons I like to see it made possible for others to do their own "Wrenching Their Selfs" wherever Possible..(Glad I Check!!) one of the reasons this BADWEB ROCKSSSSSSSSSsssss!!! | ||
| 2k4xb12 |
I was considering this as a winter project as well, and since there are quite a few posts about people breaking exhaust studs and having to extract them, I was wondering if it would be easy enough to replace the studs, nuts, washers, etc. with new parts when the header is reinstalled. Are the studs easy enough to remove, or are they threadlocked? Steve. | ||
| Dj_rider |
ok so both sets of 2 nuts are off the headers, o2 sensor off...how the $&%* do you get the rear part of the header out of the ever so tight socket...without dropping the engine, cause if i have to drop the engine, im just going to get the whole damn frame chromed  and i really dont wanna do this to a 2004 yet anyone with any info id greatly appreciate it... also i took the whole metal assembly apart in the front that holds the oil cooler and the other small things, to get more leverage and movement for the front part of the header!! | ||
| Lazyme21 |
You will have to get the header around that motor mount. Once it is around the front motor mount then you will be able to angle the header out of there. You will have to rotate the front of the headers in a counter clock wise motion. This will bring the front header at the 12 o'clock position and you should be able to get it out. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
DJ - now you got me scared. Today I got my 22mm crows foot socket & I plan to remove the O2 sensor tonight. I'll see how it goes & let you know. | ||
| Stoobr2 |
Pivotting the engine to remove the headers can be done far quicker than the manual suggests. Once you have removed the three engine tie bars, just loosen the swingarm bolt and undo the two front mounts for the oil cooler/front mount and loosen the rear one. There is no need to disconnect any cables / pipes etc. Put a jack under the front of the engine and undo the large allen bolt on the front engine mount. You can then allow the engine rotate down using the jack, allow just far enough to take the headers off. Should be able to replace the headers in a couple of hours at a steady pace. | ||
| Jerseyguy |
What Lazy said.... it works. You need to remove the two plastic duct pieces, then remove the 3 allen cap screws that hold the engine tie bar assembly in place and drop it down just a bit. Now you can work the front pipe past that assembly and rotate the header up and out. Next point - My local Harley emporium had the exhaust gaskets in stock because they are the same as a Sportster. $11. Now I have to figure how to get all of the rear gasket out cleanly. | ||
| Dj_rider |
well i got it out...did exactly how lazyme suggested...you really have to move the front part out and counterclockwise up..any other movement will jam that mof0...also...you dont need a socket to take the o2 sensor out...just use a small crecent wrench...but prabably u should use a socket to put it back in  | ||
| Jerseyguy |
Damn, had to take a break & watch 2 Wheel Tuesday.... The crow's foot socket got the O2 sensor out no problem. Getting that upper back header nut started on re-assembly is a real pain in the •••. I finally got it after like 10 mins of screwing around. I used a 1/4 drive with wobbly joint and the nut jammed in the socket with cardboard. There must be a gasket seating tool as I had a tough time getting even the front exhaust gasket in. I opted to use the old gasket in the rear cylinder. The one I pulled out of the front still looked good. I need a break.... | ||
| Jerseyguy |
MMMMMMMM.... Michelle Smith.... I think I'll finish my reassembly tomorrow. |
