| Author | Message | ||
     Desotonorsocal |
Based on symptoms, I'm leaning toward intake seals... Just purchased from American Sport Bike, I'll do 'em up this w'end and see what happens. I'll probably do the WD-40 spray first but I've bought 'em so, heh, wth, 20k miles anyway.  | ||
| Greg_e |
I'd use propane, nothing to clean up afterwards. Or carb cleaner so it cleans the surface for you, ready for new gaskets. | ||
| Desotonorsocal |
UPDATE: So I got the American Sport Bike seals and took to the job last weekend. BTW, no matter which intake seal tutorial you read, this shit is FRUSTRATING without the proper tools. I sent and bought a shorty wrench and ball-hex keys; the intake manifold key would have been a CHOICE option. So even though I know the bike has electrical gremlins *everywhere*, I took the gut feeling based on the OP that my symptoms were very similar. FINALLY got that intake out, and the seals appeared to be in really good shape. The only thing I noticed was rust build up on the front cylinder clamp down, even behind the gasket. So I sanded those down, put the new gaskets on, and buttoned it up. Start up was RICH, like old school carbed car in the garage light-headed rich. Seemed about the same after I performed the TPS reset. Took her out for a ride; 15 hard riding minutes through town stop and go, and stop and go real fast/hard. I'm near positive it's not a placebo, the bike's idle is smooth, I can hold it at any RPM and there's no jump or stutter, the dogged engine feeling is gone. I wouldn't have thought this based on the look of those seals; maybe I should have first checked to see if the bolts had simply loosened? Anyway, other than a 3-4k vibration that I *think* shouldn't be there (though I've had problems the last 8k of 10k miles so I really can't remember what it's "supposed" to vibrate like, lol) she riding fine again. So for those of you having these problems, it's a PITA but a cheap issue to try out. I'm still blown away that this worked for me. As a side question: I know the ECU's on these bikes are nothing like contemporary cars, but could I potentially make this observation and have it have some merit? I'd *guess* that the rich condition was due to the bike running lean because of intake seepage. Now that it's not leaking, is the ECU 'learning' new AFV values? I couldn't imagine the Buell ECU being that sophisticated but it'd be nice to hear that the bike will continue to 'smooth out' and lean out a bit with more riding. I simply don't know enough about the computers on these to know if that's a realistic expectation. -D | ||
| Greg_e |
The ecm does adjust afv to try to keep it at legal. So if you are pulling more air from a leak, it will adjust and this leak might wreck other portions. It will certainly set it to much too rich when you get the leak fixed and you either need to reset the afv, or go for a ride to let it adjust. | ||
| Gregoxb |
I have pulled off the tape around the ECM cables and from around the the data connection cable. So far I have not been able to visually identify a problematic wire. When I pulled the tape off I reconnected my battery and plugged in the Buelltooth to see if I could manipulate the wires and get the LED on the Buelltooth to flash on. I did not flash on, but the Buelltooth did get noticeably warmer to touch. Can that be a clue? | ||
| Greg_e |
Should get warm when it is working. | ||
| Gregoxb |
Curious. My Android cannot detect it, although it did detect it the first few times I used it. I don't understand why the LED would not power up either. | ||
| Greg_e |
If there isn't enough voltage, it might get warm but not turn on. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Those bluetooth modems are easy to fry (but they are also cheap). Did you build it yourself? Did you put the voltage regulator on it? Which regulator did you use? | ||
| Gregoxb |
I bought it. It is pretty much brand new. I have 2. The LED on the Buelltooth does not light up, it does not emit a signal or pair with my Android device, but it gets warm. The other one I bought from a forum member on BuellXB. That one does not have an LED, but it also does not emit a signal or pair with my Android device. Initially, with the first Blue tooth device, I was able to detect a signal and get ECM droid to pair, but then it stopped paring. That's when I bought the second one from Buelltooth.com thinking there was something wrong with the first one. But the one from Buelltooth.com never emitted a signal or paired from day 1. (Message edited by gregoxb on November 17, 2015) | ||
| Greg_e |
You need a spare socket and a connection to 12 volts, that would let you check the BT device. But I would probably just put a volt meter on the cycle connection and see if I had 12 volts. | ||
| Gregoxb |
I'm sorry, cycle connection? You mean just put a volt meter on the pins in the motorcycle? (Message edited by gregoxb on November 17, 2015) | ||
| Gregoxb |
I guess my next question is, how can I use a multimeter to check the ECM plugs and the dongle pins? I specifically need to know what to set the mutlimeter to, what to contact with the probes and what values to look for. I guess the part that confuses me is which pins and in what order should I be testing. Do I leave the battery in and leave the negative probe on the negative terminal of the battery and then just touch each pin on the dongle with the positive probe to see if there is 12 volts? I have never used a multimeter beyond checking if there was power to a wall outlet. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Your described approach would work Greg. Set the meter to "DC Volts", set it to a range above 12 volts, and make sure the probes are plugged into the voltage measuring slots in the meter and not the current measuring slots. Then put the black probe on battery ground, turn on the ignition, and touch the red probe to every wire coming out of the diagnostic connector. one should be 12v (or is it 5? I forget.) And one should be basically 0. The others could be 0 or 5 or something inbetween. I can almost tell you now you will see a voltage though, if you were right about your dongle getting warm. | ||
| Greg_e |
Almost positive it is going to be 12 volts supply, I'd need to dig up old notes on a mostly dead laptop or go out and measure mine. The data pins will read around 1.2 volts DC on a voltmeter. I would put the black meter lead on the cycle frame or battery negative connection. | ||
| Greg_e |
Thinking back, I had an AC to 13.8 volt DC power supply that I had hooked up for my test rig when I built my Bluetooth devices. So you definitely should find +12 volts on one of the pins, and it might be pin 2 with pin 1 ground. But my memory might not be right either, been many years since I built it. | ||
| Readyxb |
Bike's data link socket: pin1 = Rx pin2 = Gnd pin3 = Tx pin4 = +12V (ignition switched) | ||
| Desotonorsocal |
Not hijacking the thread but *hoping* to add to it... After my first 'successful' day post-intake gasket change, I'm having the same problems again across the board so I'm assuming it's electrical like Greg_e is having.... Ugh. | ||
| Gregoxb |
I am getting some weird readings... Probably because my voltmeter is above my intelligence. How should I be using this voltmeter to test the pins?  (Message edited by gregoxb on November 21, 2015) | ||
| Ducbsa |
I assume you had the knob in the DCV position when you were testing. | ||
| Gregoxb |
Yes. DCV, probes in to the meter like in this picture, black probe to negative battery terminal, ignition key turned to power on, red probe to the pins. (Message edited by gregoxb on November 22, 2015) | ||
| Gregoxb |
Ok, so I was testing all my grounds. Initially I was getting weird readings from one of the pins on the diagnostic dongle, where the voltage was climbing and climbing. While I was testing grounds I pealed off some of the tape and was moving around the wiring and then the reading on the one pin normalized to ~4.6. While testing, a 15 AMP fuse popped and the fuel pump would not prime. I swapped out the 15 AMP fuse and went for a very long ride with multiple starts and stops. Bike seems to be running smooth and fine. No decel popping. The Buelltooth still does not work, probably the pin with the climbing voltage fried it. Hopefully the bike will continue running like this. | ||
| Vicenzajay |
It's nice to hear that the bike ran well.... REALLY hoping that stays the case for you as this seems to have been a super frustrating season. | ||
| Greg_e |
If you had voltage on any of the ground wires, something is very wrong! Really sounds like you need to repair the harness, or find a decent used one that hasn't been wrecked by the seat. It won't stay running, only guarantee is that it will leave you stranded when you need it most. | ||
| Gregoxb |
No, there was no voltage on any ground wires. Sorry, I wrote that weird. I unraveled the tape and was moving the wires around alot to try and spot something with my eye. I only tested the pins on the dongle for voltage. I am thinking, with all the fiddling about, I must have disturbed the problematic wire. At first, the voltage reading on one pin was climbing and climbing, but after all the fiddling about it held steady at 4.6. I'll keep riding and hope for the best. If it comes down to needing a new wiring harness, so be it. Eventually I will get another Buelltooth and see if I can get it to link. I am thinking the pin with the climbing voltage fried the modem on my other Buelltooth, like repicheep said. What would cause the voltage to keep rising in that one pin anyway? | ||
| Gregoxb |
Now that the season is pretty much over, I am going to ride the bike locally and try hard to bait out the gremlin. Maybe he is waiting to strike, maybe he has been vanquished? Tell me about the wiring harness in the mean time though. Where could I buy a new one? How much does it cost? How hard is it to mount? Does it require an engine rotation? | ||
| Ducbsa |
Appears Surdyke http://www.surdyke.com/HardMain.asp?name=Buell%AE% 20Parts%20and%20Accessories has them, maybe any Buell dealer can order it. | ||
| Gregoxb |
That link does not take me anywhere.... I'm assuming there are different sections of the wiring harness? I would need the tail section? | ||
| Ducbsa |
You would plug the part number for whichever part you want into the Search box on the left. Your factory parts book is handy for this. This can be used, too: http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/searchparts. asp?jaar=2007&model=76A72CC3-B4E8-4D27-B72B-4A68E6 1B165C Enter the proper year, model, etc. | ||
| Gregoxb |
Y0136.5AC http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/webshop/artikel.asp? guid=YXHFSC&aid=10140 This one? |
