| Author | Message | |||
     Xbolt12 |
Ping and causes on my xb12: Stock ECM, stock exhaust, race filter, removed snorkle. Ping got bad on roll-on at about 2.5-3k rpm. Solution: Dobeck Performance Techlusion TFI! Absolutely zero pinging now. Bike runs great. My advice is don't pull the snorkel unless you have either the Race ECM or the TFI. The bike runs so good now I am going to stick with the stock 12 ECM when I put a performance exhaust on. Now if I can just find that thread (Trenchtractor?) on faking out the ECM exhaust circuit with some 1/4 watt resistors....... xbolt12 | |||
| Julesx |
Is it right to assume that when the bike was completely 'standard' there was no pinging but as soon as you changed things (snorkel) the problem started ? Jules | |||
| Xbolt12 |
Julesx, Actually, the stock bike had just a knock or two on roll-on. The race filter maybe added a third knock. The snorkel pull made it more like 6 or 7 knocks. Just an estimate. Now it doesn't seem to knock at all. xbolt12 | |||
| Trenchtractor |
Sorry, Xbolt, you're after Opto... I have the diagram somewhere, but Opto was saying there may be problems with the engine warning lamp after hi rpm runs... I may look into trying to take the next step, but it may be that you need the servo to tell the ECM that it is actually actuating... You do realise it only actuates at around 5,200rpm...? So it may be that the signal to actuate requires an answer from the servo... Makes sense, 4 pins, earth, power, signal and return... If I could only pluck up the courage to knock the tops off the plastic rivets holding it all together... That warantee void if opened tag is pretty daunting... Anyone know off the top of their head what they are worth?? Glad to hear the good news, though... Hopefully my TFi will be here soon.... | |||
| Odie |
I have installed a mod'ed pipe on mine so I don't need the servo motor anymore but I think I'll find out what one costs before I pop it open.....I'll let ya know...Odie | |||
| Opto |
Acccording to the FM it has a hall sensor and some controlling electronics in it. The simulator circuit I posted somewhere is very simple but has caused 2 check engine lights on my bike in 8 months and caused many with another person's bike every time he went over 6200 rpm. This doesn't happen on my bike. No probs with "normal" day to day riding. Trench, does the actuator operate at 5200rpm and stay open all the way to redline? I need more info on what it does before attempting version 2. I can't see much point in opening up an actuator because I already know exactly what it does. What I don't know is exactly when the ecm commands it to open or close, and how often or when it checks the position of the actuator. This info would be extremely useful. | |||
| Trenchtractor |
Hey Opto, you got mail...  I've always wanted to do that here... | |||
| Xbolt12 |
Opto, How about a active circuit (MOSFET transistor) to fool the stock ECM so us guys with the TFI can remove the exhaust servo when we run an after market exhaust? I suppose I could read up again about transistor theory! Seems like the circuit would need to put out 4-6 VDC on the Hall effect wire to the ECM when the servo control wire goes to low or zero impedance. The same circuit would need to put out 0-1 VDC on the Hall effect wire when the servo control wire goes to very high impedance or open circuit. My guess is this could easily be done using a FET transistor designed for switching (avalanche flow, not linear amp). If I read the diagnostic procedure in the service manual correctly, this should work. Also since the wiring and the harness are already there and supplying +12 VDC and ground, a simple circuit could sit in place of the motor. Whatdya think?? xbolt12 | |||
| Stefan_f |
We have a solution and it works fine! Look at our shop: http://www.sf-bikeparts.de/shop/d_12_09_Stecker_fur_Demontage_des_Stellmotors_fu r_die_Auspuffklappe220.htm Best regards Stefan | |||
| Xbolt12 |
Stefan_f, Thanks! After going into the garage and pulling out some old books on switching, it seems like a couple of resistors and a diode should work by putting the 12 volt into a dividing network and tap the sensor in the middle of the divider on the cathode of the diode. Then by putting the signal wire on other end of the resistor attached to the diode, I believe you would have 5.1~5.2 volts out on the sensor line with the control signal from the ECM at ground, and 0 volts out on the sensor line with high impedance or open circuit on the control line from the ECM. Of course if you have already done that and at a reasonable price, I'll just buy it already made. The real question being I'm here in the US, how do I buy the German products, or are they available though a US shop such as American Sport Bikes?? Thanks, xbolt12 | |||
| Opto |
Xbolt, I can't translate the German site, a cct diagram of what you describe would be nice. I might be out on a limb here. I'll try to state what I've found literally this way. The control wire normally floats at battery voltage minus 0.6V (this floating voltage is supplied through the actuator) but when it goes to ground the actuator opens. The sensor wire which was giving the ecm a ground while the actuator was closed then goes high to about 5V when the actuator opens. This 5V is a sense voltage from the ecm. The circuit shown needs some input from elec design engineers to select better resistor & transistor values. I think it may do the job but is untested, simply it's supposed to put the sensor output high (floating) when the control goes low. When the control voltage is floating the sensor should be grounded. The control voltage needs to sit at power voltage (when it isn't grounded) to prevent the engine check light from coming on. Any feedback welcome.
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| Opto |
I ran this cct today, hit the rev limiter twice, no check engine light. Will continue testing...
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cct