| Author | Message | ||
     Dwilson357 |
So I almost managed to strand myself, had I not noticed the bike was breaking up a little I woulda been sol. So I pulled the fuel pump connector and jumped the black pin to the yellow/red wire and the fuel light didn't come on. But the Kicker is if I read voltage between these 2 pins I get 10 volts (weird its not 12 right?) So does this mean my dash light is shot? I'm starting to do some digging in the manual but any insight from you guys would be awesome. thanks, Dave W. | ||
| Teeps |
No it's not weird, the voltage you are measuring is a reference voltage. The voltage is sent to the LFS* by the gauge assy. With the circuit connected, as in use, back probe the Y/R wire; measure the voltage to ground. A zero volt reading with the circuit connected would indicate a failed LFS*. *Low Fuel Sensor I goofed (darn cold affecting my brain cells); I should have said a 10v reading not zero volts, indicates an open circuit. So EITHER the LFS is faulty or the wire is broken between where you measured 10V and the sensor. Sorry about that.... but you are still heading on the right path. (Message edited by teeps on April 17, 2015) (Message edited by teeps on April 18, 2015) | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
If it is the bulb, make sure to get the same kind. I's a tricky type of thermal sensor. In the one little case with one wire, it has a small heater and a thermal sensor. That wire then goes to a bulb of a specific wattage. No fuel to cool the sensor = warm sensor and light comes on. | ||
| Froggy |
If I remember right (it has been a while since I cracked the dash open), all the dash lights except for the fuel light are bulbs, while the fuel light is an LED, so the likelihood of the light going out is extremely slim. | ||
| Dwilson357 |
Thats a pretty neat system, I didnt have any good electrical diagrams to really get into, But i did do Teeps test. With the plug all together i check the voltage of the yellow red wire to a good ground and got 10 volts again. I then disconnected the plug and jumped the ground to the yellow/red again and held it there for a little while and the light came on. It dawned on me as fuel sloshes aroudn the tank there a strong likely hood of getting a false empty so there must be a timer. I did the testing with the gas tank full though, so should I repeat when its low and see what I get? At this point it seems I'm pulling the pump though. | ||
| Greg_e |
If you are pulling the pump, get O rings, and filters, might consider a new pump if it is old or has a lot of miles. If possible, drop the swingarm to get it out of the way, makes the job tolerable. | ||
| Hammer1050 |
Good advice from Greg e; Get the swingarm totally out of the way. Makes the job SO much easier and the swingarm is not hard to remove. Also lets you get a good look at things in that area that get neglected. | ||
| Dwilson357 |
I'm familiar with getting at it ...the full pump went last year which is why I'm kinda irked...I must of missed a problem while I was in there | ||
| Greg_e |
Could the wires be chaffed where they go into the mount? | ||
| Dwilson357 |
I'm sure they could be...weve got nothing but rain around here for the week so I won't be getting any deeper into it until it's dry...thanks for the help so far guys! |
