| Author | Message | ||
     Dutch85 |
So, let me give you the back story. Bike('03 buell xb9r) sat for about 6 months not starting due to an electrical fault. Finally got that taken care of. Took it for a spin and oil light came on, and a few miles later the bike died. My cam cover gasket blew. I pulled my cam cover and 2 of my cams came out with it. In order to get them back in with the correct timing I needed to rotate my engine pull the rocker boxes to relieve spring tension. Got all that situated, now when I start the bike it idles roughly and twisting the throttle does nothing. video link http://youtu.be/ZP3ANm0yFfI I checked for error codes and got the following. 14 Engine temperature sensor 15 Intake air temperature sensor 16 Battery voltage 33 Fuell pump Does anybody have any suggestions to check anything else before I lift the bike pull the swing arm and check out the fuel pump? thanks | ||
| Griffmeister |
Boy you've got that right, it's like the throttle's not even connected. A lot of electrical codes too if they weren't there before. I'm thinking more harness related rather than fuel pump. Do you have the service manual? Before having to go through any serious disassembly I would follow the schematic and check a few of the offending circuits between the sensors and the ECU to see if there's a continuity loss. Could also compare by doing an ohm check directly at the sensor then plug it back in and do the same check at the ECU plug to see if you get the same reading. Hope you can find something the simple way. | ||
| Dutch85 |
yes I have the service manual. Do you know if there's a way to check the fuel pump psi without removing it? could I just remove the fuel line at the top of the engine that's underneath the airbox and check from there? | ||
| Teeps |
Start with the battery condition & state of charge. Then check all battery connections and ground connections. | ||
| Hammer1050 |
Did you possibly damage or compromise the sensor(s) connections when you rotated the engine down? If it runs I doubt it is the fuel pump. Sounds like the ECM is not receiving all of the sensor inputs to properly schedule fuel delivery. Ask yourself; what did I do during engine rotation that introduced these issues that where not there before those maintenance actions. | ||
| Dutch85 |
As I think back when my bike died. I originally thought that it had turned itself off to avoid further damage from low oil. But now when I think back on the incident it was a gradual loss in power as if it was fuel or intake related. Does anybody know if the computer kills the bike when there is low oil pressure? (Message edited by dutch85 on September 08, 2014) | ||
| Froggy |
It doesn't. ECM has no sensor for monitoring oil pressure. | ||
| Reepicheep |
The lifters could loose pressure, which I suppose could make the valves not open well (as well as clattering like crazy). That would cost power. Spin welding steel to aluminum costs power also. (DAMHIK. That poor little KLR-250 deserved better.) | ||
| Reepicheep |
It's unusual for a cam cover gasket to go, BTW. Did all the cams and bushings look OK? You also would have had to remove the timing cup, which means you removed the CPS sensor. Are you sure you got the timing right when you put it back together? | ||
| Dwilson357 |
Dutch, To answer your about testing fuel pressure, yes that is how it done, you will need a 5/16 ford fuel line adapter for your gauge. Your looking for a priming pressure of 55 PSI | ||
| Dutch85 |
Reepicheep, I did throughly inspect my cams before putting them back in the bike. The cps timing was one of my concerns. I was told by a mechanic to just mark it and put it back where it was. Which I did. | ||
| Dutch85 |
So my fuel pump is about 50 to 52 psi. Is this low enough to make my bike run this poor? | ||
| Cycleaddict |
I know the codes don't indicate it ,but i believe a new TPS (code 11) will fix the symptoms. | ||
| Dutch85 |
So, I think one of my plugs are dead. I run through what the ECMSpy calls "Diagnostic Functions". when I trigger the front coil it goes click like 5 times and sometimes ignites gas, when I run the test on the rear one we get nothing. | ||
| Dutch85 |
So this is where I'm at now, looks like I'm burning oil. Shooting white smoke: http://youtu.be/1NdtbDxwc8Eo, this is where I'm at now. | ||
| Dutch85 |
So, I guess all this white smoke is simply because I put seafoam in my tank, so it seams like I am good to go for street vibrations. Thank you everybody for your help. | ||
| Greg_e |
How much seafoam did you add? | ||
| Teeps |
Air (smoke) should never come out of the throttle body like in the video. Plus that rattle/knock sound when the engine finally ran does not sound good to me. Sounds like that engine is hurt. | ||
| Dutch85 |
Greg, too much, like half the can. teeps, the rattle noise is my header. The exhaust header does not fit flush in to my engine head and rattle around. | ||
| Teeps |
Dutch85 Posted on Sunday, September 14, 2014 - teeps, the rattle noise is my header. The exhaust header does not fit flush in to my engine head and rattle around. Roger that; but that expulsion of air/fumes out of the throttle body IS not good. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That didn't sound good... | ||
| Fast1075 |
There is AT LEAST one bent/broke/fragged intake valve, and/or the cam timing is suddenly FUBAR. It is time to pull the engine and see what broke. | ||
| Hammer1050 |
What Fast1075 said; Also Cycleaddict makes a good point. I still believe you have compromised (damaged?) your sensor connections. Take a good look at them when you have the engine out. Make sure you dis-connect all your electrical connections before lowering the engine. | ||
| Sifo |
Pull one plug. Try to roll in while in gear. Put the plug back in and pull the other plug and try to roll it again. If one fails to have good compression, you definitely have something pretty messed up internally. That video does look like an intake valve isn't closing properly. |
