| Author | Message | ||
     Dwilson357 |
Hows it going all, New to Buell and the site. So I just bought an 05 xb12scg with 17k miles on it. And im happy with it thus far! But I did have a couple quick questions about some pre-preemptive repair work The first being the Oil pump. I understand in 05/06 they upgraded the input gear to the pump then in 07 they followed it up with upgraded gerotors. If I have the upgraded input gear, can I install the new gerotors? Or is worrying about this even neccesary? Second is the primary cover clutch breakage issue. I haven't pulled it yet to see if its been repaired but assuming its not. A guy and I at work(I'm a machinist) are designing the add on plate now. Should we bother milling the back off the plates smooth? then Mount the add on plate? He is also concerned about counterboring the plate so the clutch engages at the same point. I really don't have a decent way of explaining this so forgive me. Thanks for any help guys! Dave W. | ||
| Fast1075 |
Replace the stock clutch spring with an '06+ Uly spring, which will reduce the stress on the cover, and lighten the clutch pull. The stock spring is much stiffer than it needs to be for street use. I got mine from Al @ American sportbike. | ||
| Ducbsa |
Is this what you are looking for? http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/282980.html Might be more in the Knowledge Vault. | ||
| Ericz |
I have lots of clutch spring options for sale: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/ 730364.html?1391609688 | ||
| Jeffroj |
Follow the above thread for the plate, pretty easy. You don't need a mill to flatten the backside, it would be easier, but I used a dremel and used the lip/broken lip as a guide. I also welded the bolts, and ground flush, to the plate on the back side, after coutersinking and threading them in. Don't use cheap bolts!! use a high grade, I snapped one of the bolts a year later because I just used what I had lying around. Had to redo it. | ||
| Jeffroj |
Nevermind, if it ain't broke... For future reference though.  | ||
| Dwilson357 |
Ok guys, Thanks for the replies thus far! I do however have a new problem. When i was riding around today the bike would idle high in Neutral (2000 rpm) If I put the bike in gear and eased the clutch out with the brake on drop the rpm to 1000ish it would stay. Also shutting the bike off and turning it back on would help. Could it need a TPS reset? I have the a race ECM and access to an ECM cord can i reset the TPS with ECM spy? Any thoughts guys? Thanks, Dave W | ||
| Dwilson357 |
Any ideas guys? I did some digging with the ECM spy thing I guess I'm screwed doing that myself. But when I first start the bike it idles perfect. This thread sounds very similar http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-Lightn ing-XB12S-XB12Ss-CityX-XB12Scg/Hanging-idle-1 But I'm not sure what they are talking about lol the spark advance or the idle speed on the bike? Thanks, Dave W. | ||
| Dwilson357 |
Alright so last question. I borrowed the ECMspy cable. I retrieved my EEPROM and Firmware version. The Version is BUEGB231, If I have the BUEGB Firmware I can do TPS resets with this? I have read that if you have an EBR ecm you can get into trouble with ECMspy Any thoughts on this would be greatly appreciated. | ||
| Froggy |
ECMspy can corrupt the EBR ECM, use TunerPro RT instead http://tunerpro.net/downloadApp.htm Also, disregard what Buellxb.com says regarding the spark advance, your issue is that your idle is set a hair too high. Do not reset the TPS, do not even bother plugging in the cable. Just warm up your bike, then go to the idle adjuster cable (between the left air scoop and frame) and turn it just a tick to lower the idle RPM. | ||
| Dwilson357 |
Thank you Froggy, I was not going to mess around with the spark advance that's a whole mess of trouble I don't need right now lol, But I will drop the idle and go from there. If I get into using TunerProRT, will the BUEGB XDF and ADF files suffice or do you need some other variant to suffice the BUEGB231? Thanks again Dave W. | ||
| Dwilson357 |
Ok, Last one I swear!! So I ran Tunerpro RT and ran a quick log at idle to kind of get familiar with everything...And I noticed my O2 Voltage seemed low (.49) and my AFV was 115. So I did some more looking around and saw 3 flags High voltage for O2, Low Voltage for O2, and rear O2 Inactive. No engine light on the bike though...So what gives? And without doing any type of ride am I to understand the AFV value is only relevant to idle? Or is the AFV an average value the engines running? |
