| Author | Message | ||
     Billy_t |
So I have replaced the coil, plugs, wires, and temp sensor. The only code I have ever seen is 13, which 02 fault, but it's not coming back after being cleared. Problem still there. depending on outside temp, I can get about 20 miles from house before the miss happens. The severity of the miss is also dependent on the temp, so if it's 100 outside, the bike is almost unrideable. If it's 80, it's not too bad and I can cruise to where I need to get. Sometimes, the engine light will stay on, and the miss clears up, bike rides fine. So where does that leave me? Computer? Crank sensor? I'm going to check and clean all the grounds next, maybe even add a couple more ground points. I have yanked on wires and fuse box while bike is running and can't get any adverse effects. I love this bike and wanna get to riding, but this problem has been getting me down for months. Any help would be much appreciated. So what is next? Bad ECU? crank speed sensor? | ||
| Sifo |
Is the fan running? It's designed to skip cycles on one cylinder when it gets too hot, and I believe the engine light is supposed to blink when that's going on. I've run my '06 in temps close to 110 without that happening, but my fan was on constantly. Burned my leg on the fuel tank, but no misfire. Just want to rule out a dead fan on your bike. | ||
| Reepicheep |
After a series of misses, does it backfire loudly? And does the tach go crazy while it is misfiring? If I were you I'd be checking the CPS next. If you have access to an oscilloscope when the bike is misbehaving, it is really easy to diagnose. | ||
| Billy_t |
The fan runs, yes. And a check engine light blinking is the universal thing for a misfire. Any modern car that has a bad misfire will blink the engine light while it is happening. It just misfires. No backfire. It's just dropping a cylinder. Funny though, if it was a spark misfire, you would think I would get a pop with the unburnt fuel getting into pipe. But if it was a fuel misfire, you won't get the pop... I'm going to force the bike to run in open loop and see what it does. I feel like that is what it is doing when the light finally stays on and it smooths out, which really, it doesn't happen that much, usually just keeps missing till it cools down. | ||
| Billy_t |
Seems like a ton of people have this same problem, but the fix is always different for each. ha... :-| | ||
| Sifo |
And a check engine light blinking is the universal thing for a misfire. Any modern car that has a bad misfire will blink the engine light while it is happening. I don't think that's true for Buells. A blinking engine light means over heating, along with intentionally dropping ignition cycles on the rear cylinder. If that's what's going on it would be interesting to see what the engine temp is according to the ECM. It could be too hot, or it could be a bad temp sensor telling the ECM it's too hot. | ||
| Froggy |
Exactly, the only time the CEL would ever blink on a Buell is when it is in skip spark mode due to overheating, or you jumpered the diagnostic connector and are reading a code. Other than that, it only illuminates the CEL when you first power on, or when you have an actual issue. The Buell DDFI is quite a bit different than anything any car uses. I recommend doing some datalogging and seeing what is going on when it is occurring, but it sounds like the overheating skip spark. | ||
| Billy_t |
Okay... the light flashes when it goes into skip spark mode(which is a misfire sort of), but it is doing it on purpose, not reacting to a mis. That makes sense. Still wired that it won't throw a code for overheating But the fan works, always has. I can hear it running while engine light is blinking. Also, I put the 2 wire sportster sensor on yesterday, thinking it would work, but it seems to be giving me an entirely different problem. So the stock one will go back on. As of right now, I can't get 5 minutes away without the light blinking and some misfiring. I thought I read somewhere that the sportster sensor would work. Pretty sure I got the ground to ground and signal to signal, but the bike has run like crap with it wired either way. Which leads me to the next question... Where is the best place to source a 1 wire OEM ET sensor? Iron Machine doesn't have them anymore. Thanks for all the help so far! Wish I would have come to you guys before I got that HD sensor... I guess if the sensor is reading too high, though, it will cause the skip spark, even though the temp is actually fine, and the fan will run which doesn't really tell me anything(could be on too soon)... okay, starting to understand now... Just as a test, will the bike run with the sensor unplugged? We are still pretty cool here, just barely getting into 70s. Don't wanna leave it that way, but if it doesn't get that signal that it is overheating, it shouldn't go into skip spark, which would tell me a lot. | ||
| Teeps |
Billy_t Posted on Monday, February 17, 2014 Which leads me to the next question... Where is the best place to source a 1 wire OEM ET sensor? 3 words. American Sport Bike} (Message edited by teeps on February 18, 2014) | ||
| Sifo |
+1 on American Sport Bike. http://americansportbike.com/newdir/Item/17035 | ||
| Billy_t |
Yeah, I hit them up today and they have it in stock. BUT... I don't need it. All this time, the bike was lean. It was just getting too hot, just like you guys said. I put the old OEM sensor back on and raised the AFV from 119 to 130 and it ran perfect. 30 miles. Longest it has been ridden in a while. Problem usually occurred about 15 miles or sooner if hot out. Man... wish I would have posted here sooner.  | ||
| Cataract2 |
Just a thought. Have you checked if your cam position sensor is operating properly and/or if your ignition coil is good? | ||
| Sifo |
Good to hear you are making progress. I don't think it's "fixed" yet though. Something is making it run lean if you have to manually adjust the AFV to 130. Did you lock it in at 130, or is it still able to adjust? If it's able to adjust itself, it probably already has and all is fine. | ||
| Billy_t |
Thinking back to when it all began, was when I swapped out the Jardine can which was all banged up from PO with a Delkivic can that I had on my sportster, which was much nicer, but also shorter with a lot less packing. It was pretty cool out when I did that, so initially the issue was masked. But before then, no problems. After that problems. As of right now, the bike is running in open loop, so no correction. Perfect cold start, perfect cold idle and perfect hot idle. It's never been this smooth at idle since I have owned it. It needs some tuning to truly be fixed, but I'm fairly certain that it was a tuning issue all along. I would also venture to guess that this bike was never tuned for the Jardine can, either. Looks like it lead a hard life before getting to me. | ||
| Billy_t |
Ya know, I don't have the original maps I pulled of the bike... But last night, when I fetched the current map, the O2 was already turned off. Now, the night before turned it off, but was fairly certain I turned it back on... so it could have been off the whole time... which would explain why the computer never adapted to the new can. or maybe I just never burned the change back... It's a 2003, so no telling how many have had their hands in different parts of it. (Message edited by Billy T. on February 19, 2014) | ||
| Firemanjim |
Glad to hear the bike is running well--- but you need to ask why bike needs 30% more fuel added to run well. Something is causing a really lean condition. Temp sensor going usually the opposite, but O2 sensor going could be culprit as well as bad intake seals, fuel pump getting weak, filter getting clogged----- | ||
| M1combat |
I'm going with intake seals or witness marks on the intake manifold where it meets the heads thereby causing a leak when it gets hot with old hard intake seals. Or you forgot to turn the O2 back on... | ||
| 08xb12xtbuellrider |
When mine was acting up it ended up being a cracked ecm. Look at your ecm and examin around each of the plugs, lightly bend the sockets down and up a little bit and see if where the hub meets the case if its cracked. Mine got moisture in it originally and I threw it in a bag of rice for a few days and tried it and it ran great and I just sealed it up with sealant/jb weld and never had a issue. I run a ebr ecm now though and keep my old one as a spare  , I was throwing weird codes though, but it ran better and better after the rice until it altogether pulled out of it. |
