Author |
Message |
Kowmaster
| Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 08:34 am: |
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Hi.My uly is letting me down again.I am hoping someone will be able to point me in right direction... So what happens is that when i ride in the rain for lets say 5-10 min it would start misfiring and running only one cylinder(it sounds like it). if iam still moving and apply full throttle it would start shooting sputtering and all in all it sound like the bike will blow apart and then if i keep it steady i can manage to run it on one cylinder and stay moving.yesterday though it died and i couldnt start it(also rainy weather) so i couldnt agree to push it home for 3 miles so i started looking for anything that could get wet.i lifted the seat and there was my breather rerouted filter all wet and oily...so i dont know if that could cause it?or maybe it was wet and oily from something that cause a fault in the engine? I have changed the spark plug wires in hope that it will cure the problem but no luck..i am badly stuck..when its not raining there is no problem with the bike.... although i think there is problem with the grounds as i had to run separate cable for my lights as they kept blinking..and also the tachometer sometimes turns off or it runs the test(the same sweep as when i turn the ignintion on)during riding. please heeelp... |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 02:19 pm: |
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I guess the boot of the spark plug wires are the problem. even if the look good they could let water through ,had the same thing happen when riding for a couple of days with a lot of rain. It could also have a issue like this, http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142838/586243.html (Message edited by Brother in buells on January 29, 2014) (Message edited by Brother in buells on January 29, 2014) |
Kowmaster
| Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 04:11 pm: |
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this was my first idea so i have changed the plugs cables for new ones.but still no luck |
Kowmaster
| Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 04:17 pm: |
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the cables for the plugs were changed so that should not be the issue...but the thread you pointed to it gives some more ideas so i will check that out tommorow.thnx.i will let you know the outcome. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 05:10 pm: |
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Did you use Dialectic Grease on the inside of the cable boots? |
Kowmaster
| Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 07:08 pm: |
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no...mechanic fitted it for me...i thought it would be enough to fit new ones...that the seals will be ok.could that be the issue? |
Kowmaster
| Posted on Wednesday, January 29, 2014 - 07:15 pm: |
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and as i browsed through our shops on the net in london there isn't many selling di electric grease... (Message edited by kow-master on January 29, 2014) |
Brother_in_buells
| Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 06:55 am: |
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Maybe its this!? http://www.satcure.co.uk/tech/silicone.htm |
Mmcn49
| Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 10:42 am: |
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Kowmaster—I live in the US Pacific Northwest where we have a lot of cool/cold damp drizzly and rainy days. On those days I had problems similar to yours though not quite to the same extent as you describe. After checking the obvious, plug boots and wires and finding nothing wrong with either. I started looking at the wiring under the air box; the front cylinder spark plug wire runs very close to the wire bundle that carries the fuel injector signal wires. After thinking about it a little I wondered if there was any “cross-talk” between the plug wire and injector signal wires. The bike has suppression spark plug wires and resistor plugs so initially I dismissed the possibility but could never eliminate the popping. Long story short: Purchased a roll of copper foil with a conductive adhesive on one side. Ran a “Tinned” 16 AWG stripped, (bare) wire along the spark plug wire. Ran a second stripped tinned wire along about 8 to 10 inches of the wire bundle. Wrapped the plug wire, wire bundle and stripped wires in copper foil. Soldered ring connectors to the 16 AWG wire ends. Ran the coil’s front mounting bolt through the connectors, bonding the drain wires to the engine. NOTE: The bare wire acts as a shield drain. It gives interference electrons, (EMI) a free ride away from the injector signal wires. When using any type of wire shielding you must always use a shield drain wire. Just shielding the wires does no good. Do not use a braided shield as the braid does not trap 100% of the interference. Problem solved. Went for a 20 mile ride in cold damp heavy drizzle. The engine didn’t pop once even before it had fully warmed up. Since then this bike has become my daily commuter, (my old R75/5 gave up the ghost after 243,000 miles). It only pops if I ride it without giving it a 5-minute warm up. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_sabc?url=search- alias%3Daps&pageMinusResults=1&suo=1391095353258#/ ref=nb_sb_noss_1/188-2510415-4414149?url=search-al ias%3Daps&field-keywords=copper%20shielding%20foil &sprefix=copper+shielding+f%2Caps&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3 Acopper%20shielding%20foil http://www.amazon.com/Copper-Foil-Shielding-Tape-G uitars/dp/B00FV1MS0S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=139109 5362&sr=8-2&keywords=copper+shielding+foil |
Ducbsa
| Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 10:56 am: |
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This has probably been covered elsewhere, but a 5 minute warmup seems a lot. I don't warm up my XB at all. I don't hammer it for a few miles, though. |
Kowmaster
| Posted on Thursday, January 30, 2014 - 11:40 am: |
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Brother in buells.thnx for the tip..but I was thinking more of a walk in shops like halfords and eurocarparts...even tried few independent shops that sell bits and bobs for cars and no luck.but I had to repair the fault today so what I did was to put some instant gasket silicone to seal off the boot of the cable..but not where it goes on the plug but where it goes on the socket (coil?) On the other end.so we will see if that did any good. But today morning when I fired uly up it ran on 1 cylinder only.front.the rear was cold.and now when everything is fixed (hopefully) it seems that bike has less power..is it possible that the plugs need changing after all that missing and backfiring? Mcn49--thanks for the info I will keep that In mind and if the problem persists I will look into that.i appreciate your help and research you did for me thank you very very much.i will keep you posted about what happens..if its solved or not.thnx |
Mmcn49
| Posted on Friday, January 31, 2014 - 12:48 pm: |
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I’m out the door by 4:15 to catch the 4:45 AM ferry. Temperatures are often around freezing, usually 28 to 35 or so. One day it was 17 degrees F. A 4 to 5 minute warm up is not excessive. |
Panhead_dan
| Posted on Saturday, February 01, 2014 - 10:53 am: |
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I am starting to see Buellers finding problems with field radiation from plug wires here and there around the internet. This condition, which is beginning to come to light, could explain a number of poor running issues that had previously been either mis-diagnosed or just a mystery. Someone needs to come up with shielded plug wires for sale to the Buell riding masses. |
Cataract2
| Posted on Saturday, February 01, 2014 - 07:57 pm: |
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Pan, can you expand on that? |
Kowmaster
| Posted on Wednesday, February 05, 2014 - 04:06 pm: |
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hi.just to update.Its solved now.The water was getting int the cable boot by the coil so after smearing high temperature silicone there its great now.I did a loooooooot of rain riding and nothing wrong...not even once the engine poped or misfired.thnx to everyone for their help.you are great guys.thnx |
Mmcn49
| Posted on Thursday, February 06, 2014 - 12:18 pm: |
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Good news, glad you were able to sort it out. Seems like there are numerous odd run ability problems. When I was troubleshooting mine I wiped dielectric grease under the coil boots and zip tied the boots to the coil to insure no water was getting in. I also wiped dielectric grease inside the spark plug boots. |
Panhead_dan
| Posted on Friday, February 07, 2014 - 07:43 pm: |
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this is interesting, if it should develop to include Buells. http://www.accel-ignition.com/motorcycle/stealth-s upercoil.html |
Mmcn49
| Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2014 - 01:24 pm: |
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Coil over plug an elegant solution, (elegant pricing as well). This would fix all the issues and I would purchase in a heartbeat. Would only purchase though if a pair were made for Buell. They’re too expensive to try and jury rig. |
Mmcn49
| Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2014 - 03:35 pm: |
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Direct coils need to be supported somehow. You can’t just stick one on a plug and let it flop in the breeze so to speak. On my previous post I said Accel came up with an elegant solution. Elegant because they are using the engine head bolts as the base for their support bracket. From Accel’s website their new coil kits fit all: Touring 2009-2014 Models Dyna Models 2006-2014 Does anybody know if the Buell’s head bolt pattern is similar to any of these bikes? If so any bracket modifications to fit the Buell may be minimal. The only other item would be to match up wire connectors. Accel’s phone number: 1-216-658-643. |
Sifo
| Posted on Sunday, February 09, 2014 - 05:44 pm: |
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If they made something for a Sportster it would likely fit the Buell. Not a big twin though. |
Jesse_lackman
| Posted on Friday, March 21, 2014 - 10:47 am: |
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I just replaced sparkplugs on my XB12X. It had the occasional miss, then when I started it this spring the rear cylinder quit firing. I had new plugs so I put them in but found the rear plug wire not all the way in the plug boot so the metal socket hadn't been on the top of the plug. It runs much better now! The rear plug wire was actually harder to get on right than changing the rear plug. |