| Author | Message | ||
     Darth_buell |
So in 3rd gear I can give it gas and make it slip and catch. Feels like teeth are missing in the gear. Just started doin it in 2nd. Also my as of yesterday my speedo waves a little and the clutch engages sooner than it did before. Was told it would cost around 2000 to fix. Said it was the shift forks and drum. Is this something I can do with a manual??? | ||
| D_adams |
If you're mechanically inclined and don't mind getting dirty, yep. | ||
| Brakes2late |
Sure it's not a clutch problem? | ||
| Greg_e |
I'd check the clutch cable adjustment first and make sure the clutch is going all the way to lock up. After that check the clutch plates, they would need to come off for an overhaul anyway so you are simply working your way inside. | ||
| Nillaice |
The speedo going wonky is because the sensor (magnetic) is collecting metal shavings. This has happened on bikes under normal conditions, but if you say it's got tranny issues, I'd take it as an indicator of something more serious. It's easy to pull off and check, right behind the front pulley cover. If there's big chunks, then you got a big problem. Fine shavings and you might not. Also You could pull the oil filter and cut it open to look for your missing 'third gear teeth' Check the clutch first. Again, 'working your way inside' | ||
| Fast1075 |
Um, transmission and engine have separate lube systems. Sounds like an accurate diagnosis to me. Shift fork/drum problems cause incomplete gear engagement. When the gear dogs wear, they won't stay engaged, and "jump". Has the bike ever been dropped on the left side? That is the most common reason to kill a shift fork. | ||
| Ericz |
Fast1075, even if the shift shaft that sticks out of the primary cover is damaged if the bike is dropped, the shift drum will never get damaged. The shift shaft can't transfer any of the load to the drum. | ||
| Nillaice |
Fast1075 is dead right if By 'transmission' he means 'primary' On an XB I've only ever changed the 20/50w oils on the primary case (which has the starter gear teeth, stator, clutch and primary drive chain) and the 'other' one, which I have foolishly assumed lubricates all the components on that side of the crankcase, to include the transmission. I might be wrong. I've not torn down an xb engine yet | ||
| Nillaice |
Darth, have you tried holding tension on the shifter (to keep the gears engaged) while riding in 2nd and 3rd ? That might narrow it down to the shifter drum/forks | ||
| Darth_buell |
Negative , I am not in any way knowledgable in any way about transmissions other thAn knowing how to shift. AFTERr goin from second to 3rd, do I keep tension pushing up or back down. I'm guessing up. By the way. My clutch cable snapped today. Maybe that was part of the problem????????? | ||
| Fast1075 |
My concern about the bike being dropped was for bending a shift fork, not damaging the drum. A bent fork can cause a cascade of problems. | ||
| Ericz |
Darth, when you shift are you maintaining pressure on the shifter or do you briefly click it into the next gear and immediately release pressure from the shifter with your foot? Fast, I should have included shift forks with the shift drum statement above. All of the shift forks and shift drum are located inside the transmission cavity and not directly connected to anything that would suffer damage if the bike fell over. The shift shaft, which protrudes out of the primary cover, has shifter pawls attached to it that engage on the shift drum. Are you referring to the two shifter pawls (each with a little spring)? (Message edited by EricZ on January 27, 2014) | ||
| Darth_buell |
I maintain no pressure after shifting. Should I be. Doesn't seem like I should be. I shift and then release the lever until the next shift. A lot of my guys are telling me it may be a clutch problem now. I haven't read of to many tranny problems with the 12R's. That's not to say it isn't but I have around 28,000 miles and I may or may not like to float the front wheel. Average lifespan of a clutch on an XB?? | ||
| Brakes2late |
Just for clarification, does the bike "jump" out of gear after you shift and roll on the throttle? Or, is it just that when you roll on the throttle the engine revs but you don't seem to be accelerating like you should be? | ||
| Ericz |
Spend the time to pull your primary cover and inspect your clutch. A clutch spring tool is inexpensive ($40) and it would be worth your while. Follow the factory service manual step by step and you shouldn't have any issues. Reassemble everything and follow the clutch adjustment procedure from the manual as well. Ride the bike and see if your inspection resolved the issue. A stock XB clutch can easily last 28k miles but a lot depends on how hard you have been on it. | ||
| Nillaice |
Normally,You shouldn't have to maintain pressure after shifting. But If the bike accelerates smoothly when you do keep pressure on the shifter, then it's probably the shift drum/forks that are causing the issue. Try it. You might even feel some feedback thru the shifter when the gears try to kick out on you | ||
| Froggy |
I'm not sure of a real average as everyone rides their bikes differently, but both my 06 and 08 have over 40k miles on their original clutches. | ||
| Fast1075 |
My perspective: If you drop the bike and force the shifter to move, it will try to rotate the drum to another gear. If the dogs are not aligned so the gears engage when the drum is forced to turn, the fork can be bent. The result will be, the bent fork now pushed the gear too far one way (symptom would be hard shift) and sideloading the gear and the fork, causing a burned fork. In the other direction, the bent fork would not fully engage the dogs, resulting in skipping. I have never had a Buell transmission on my bench, But I have countless others, most failures from bent forks either from blown clutchless shifts, or the bike going down. Usually won't kill a drum, but if it is run long enough it can wear the grooves in the engaged position, causing incomplete engagement and repeat hopping and failure. My point being, once you bend a fork, the cascade from riding it makes the situation worse. If it was mine, I would pull it down and go over everything carefully, including polishing the drum if it has any ridges, and being the OCD kind of person I am, would send the drum out for cryo to harden it up some. The transmission itself would go immediately to Mark and crew at R&D for magnaflux, and complete back cut service. | ||
| Meggadeath |
If the clutch cable was getting ready to snap, it would have had a tendency to "bunch" at the point of separation thereby binding and causing the clutch to not fully disengage. Replace the cable (being extra mindful not to over-tighten the ferrule at the primary end as it WILL break easily), adjust the clutch and see if the problem is resolved. Sometimes the most annoying problems have the easiest solutions. | ||
| Jeffroj |
Worn shift dogs and/or forks. Sucks, I know, mine does the same in 3rd. I just go from 2nd to 4th and avoid it until I will have the time and $$ to fix. Have you checked into the clutch cable yet, visibly seeing that is snapped? Could have been the lips in your primary cover shearing off. (Message edited by JeffroJ on January 28, 2014) |
