| Author | Message | ||
     Willydac50 |
I started out with a simple turn signal problem,had a short. Blew the ACC fuse. Unplugged everything (including my ECU), found and fixed the short. Plugged everything back in, and discovered the bike cranked but wouldn't start. Long story short, if I push or wiggle the ECU itself the bike starts and runs fine. It will idle all day in the garage. As soon as I take off down the street, the engine will stop. Remove seat, wiggle the ECU, start and ride it back into the driveway. I fear I have broken a trace inside the unit itself and vibration eventually causes the separation again. If anyone has a known good stock ECU I would like to buy it. Bright ideas or similar problems are welcome too. I miss the bike and it's getting pretty damned annoying. The bike is bone stock, no header, stock air cleaner and I want to keep it that way. Any help greatly appreciated. PM me. | ||
| Teeps |
Most likely the solder joints are cracked. see this link for ideas: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/673617.html?1333122196 As you can see, if cracked solder joints are the problem; it it probably repairable. I did the repair on the ECM of my xb12x. | ||
| Willydac50 |
That is just about what I thought was going on. I'm a pretty decent troubleshooter so I figured that the board was the problem. I'm still going to be in the market for a replacement, but from looking at that, the problem will exist in most of them. I may do a repair attempt only I'm going to suck out the crap solder and use plain old 60/40. How is your's holding up? I'm guessing pretty well since you pointed me that direction. Many thanks! (Still looking for a good replacement!) I know that there has to have been a lot of guys that bought a race ECM and have their stocker gathering dust. I have to clean the salt out of my hauler and get ready for our season's last meet this weekend at El Mirage. I won't be cutting my ECU/ECM apart this week. Thanks a ton for pointing me that direction! | ||
| Willydac50 |
Just a quick question on your repair. Did you re-pot the board? I don't know if you can still buy potting compound, but if I repair the one I have, I'll be heading to my local aircraft parts house looking for potting compound. | ||
| Teeps |
Willydac50 Posted on Tuesday, November 05, 2013 Just a quick question on your repair. Did you re-pot the board? I just used RTV I had laying around. Also, I used an Exacto razor saw and sliced the top off (bar code side in the photos in the link) just below where the radius ends. I was able to slice the potting away from the sides, of the case and free the board. Then the fun of removing the potting to get to the terminals. How is your's holding up? It's been 18 months since I repaired the ECM and it's still working, so I guess it was a success.} | ||
| Willydac50 |
And that sounds like a success to me also. I'll be having a go at mine whether I find another or not. Can't hurt to have a spare. | ||
| Greg_e |
I'd fill it with hot glue. | ||
| Reepicheep |
I've had hot glue shrink and pull off over time, so I'd recommend RTV. For quick and dirty stuff, hot glue works great. If anyone knows a hot glue solution that works over the long haul I would love to hear it, I would like to use it. Cheaper and easier to handle than RTV. | ||
| Willydac50 |
I just came across this and the procedure this guy is using seems pretty good. He does stress that he is using a silicone that does _not_ use acetic acid to cure. If it smells like vinegar, don't use it. It's not good for electronics and is corrosive. I would probably make a kind of dam around the board to try and keep it neat. Here's a link to his video's http://hackaday.com/2012/06/04/potting-electronics -with-silicone/ Oh, BTW I finally came up with a new ECM. I can cut mine up now without worrying about the outcome. | ||
| Reepicheep |
SWEET! GE Silicone II for a cheap, readily available, non acetic potting compound. Tagaderm patches if you want a smooth pod like surface, but I don't think I would go that route. I think I would be more inclined to just use something else that would just remain attached (even something as simple as a paper towel or masking tape in a mold). Thank you, that just moved the heated grip controller V7 forward a step. | ||
| Willydac50 |
My thanks to everyone on this one. Bike is running fine now. I have come to a few conclusions since this started. The solder joints are not great. Don't believe everything you read about ECMs. My 07 ran great on a borrowed 2003 ECM. Runs the same with the "correct" one. (I pulled the EEPROM programming for both and logged them running for an hour. Fan came on at correct temp, injectors ran the same, etc.) If you don't understand electronic injection works/programs etc. Leave it alone. Don't assume when you buy a mostly stock bike that it runs crappy and a race ECM is the hot fix. Nearly any ECM can be programmed to run the bike. After riding a 1200 for so long, my 9 was a bit of a disappointment. Turns out both the original ecm and the borrowed one had a huge flat spot to around 3000 rpm. Both had been "retuned" to run with a different air filter and exhaust. The flat spot could be tuned right out and the bike pulls smoothly from off idle on up with a harder pull around 4000. Lastly, if you want real answers from a knowledgeable and decent bunch of riders/mechanics, check BADWeb first. You guys sent me down the right path and your info was accurate. Even EBR was less than helpful. Thanks again to all. I apologize for being a "lurker" more often than not. And now the rain has quit and the sun is out, so I'm going riding! |
