| Author | Message | ||
     Tomcrane |
I just picked up a 07 xb9sx with 717 miles from a user here ..I wanna give this thing a full service ..complete fluid change as well as go over the rest of the bike to make sure everything is good ..will most likely need spark plugs changed ..also have a race kit I need Installed Also the bike isn't starting ..it started when I first got It last week but I think I might have fouled out the plugs trying to start it in the cold with a not so great battery. I can deliver the bike to you to work on and would also like to help but I don't trust myself to do this alone So I'm looking for someone who's good and knowledgeable at working on xb9s that would like to make some extra cash I'll supply all needed parts just need the expertise and labor Give me a call/text at 508 287 5384 or drop me a pm Bike is located in Attleboro mass Thanks Tom (Message edited by Tomcrane on March 17, 2013) (Message edited by Tomcrane on March 17, 2013) | ||
| Greg_e |
Plugs are easy to service get a flex drive socket for the rear plug and a T27 torqz bit for the body work. Pull off the left side air scoop (three fasteners) to get to the front plug. Put a standard correct size plug socket on the plug and turn with a wrench. Remove air cleaner cover (colored plastic) to reach the rear plug (4 fasteners) and go in through the frame with the flex drive plug socket. If the fuel is old I would suggest siphoning it out and adding nice fresh fuel and maybe a little bit of Seafoam to help clean things, with that few a number of miles things may be pretty tarnished. (Message edited by Greg_E on March 17, 2013) | ||
| Buellblastrider |
If you was up for a 12 hr drive I would be happyto help you out. | ||
| Tomcrane |
I got the front plug out ..I'm right in guessing its fouled right ..here's a pic and smells like gas  I'm going to get some new plugs tommorow and swap out both and hope that fixes my no start issue Also I didn't put the bad plug in but I covered the hole with tape ..lol ..that should be ok until tomorrow right ? Bike is covered | ||
| Greg_e |
Or a wrag stuffed in the hole or just put the plug back in finger tight for a few threads. Most people end up with the Iridium plugs: http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/5889.html You might be able to get the Iridium at Advance Auto or Autozone. They will definitely have a cross for the standard Harley plugs. You could also clean those with a little carb cleaner and an old tooth brush, should be good enough to get it running again. | ||
| Tomcrane |
Just got everything I'll need for the spark plug change ...I also ordered the ngks ..these are already gapped at .35 right as I heard you can't gap these on your own I watched the DIY vid on YouTube and it looks fairly easy and straight forward The bike in the vid appears to be an xb12r but the process and spark plug location is the same right Thanks for the help | ||
| Greg_e |
Yes all the frames are essentially the same so getting to the plugs should be the same. You will find that the more stuff you work on, the less stuff you want to have someone else do for you. | ||
| Hammer71 |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/37/ 163203.html?1363519417 There are plenty of guys up and around your area, post in the above linked area and Im sure someone will chime in | ||
| Tomcrane |
So I got both Plugs out but for the love of me can't get the air box base off ..I took off the torx but it's not the same setup as the guy with the xb12 Either way I can get the rear plug in ..getting the boot on looks like its going to be a real pain and the other side of the rear plug boot came off so I had to push that back on though it doesn't appear to sit super snug ..it's on there for sure but not as tight as the plug side that latches onto the plug ...I'm guessing that once the plug is on there's no way for the other side to pop off because there's no free play That front plug is a real pain..by hand I can't seem to get it to thread ..apparently I'm not getting the angle right for the plug to go into the hole .. Also how the heck are you supposed to use a box wrench on the 5/8" plug when I can't even get a wrench up in there (Message edited by Tomcrane on March 18, 2013) | ||
| Greg_e |
Use a regular plug socket and put the wrench on the socket, all mine have a hex on the end of the socket and it is pretty easy for me. Did you take the air scoop off the side? | ||
| Dtaylor |
If you haven't already, now is a good time to inspect the plug wires for signs of chafing. Be sure to put some dielectric grease in the plug boots (I do the coil ends as well). It gets on your hands and makes things slippery, which adds to the challenge. But it helps to keep moisture out of your ignition system. The secret to getting the plug boots on and wires secured is calm perseverance. You will likely feel it click when the wire end clip inside the boot properly attaches to the plug end. A gentle tug on the wire should confirm this. Detaching the left side air scoop makes the front plug a piece of cake. A set of spark plug boot pliers helps, too, as does being double-jointed or having very small hands. If you feel a rage coming on, take a break and come back to it later. (Message edited by dtaylor on March 18, 2013) | ||
| Tomcrane |
So I got the rear plug in and the boot on ..and the front plug in ..I hand tightened it All the way in ..I still couldn't figure out how to get the plug socket on and have room to use a wrench on it so I carefully tightened the plug with a wrench ...the nut on the plug itself ..I was VERY careful and when it was snug I gave it a little turn ..I out the front boot back on .... The bike fired up on the first try without issue ..idles right below 1k ..I took it for a 10 mile ride ..had it up to 60 ..no hesitation or bucking or anything odd so I'm going to guess I put the plugs and boots on correctly If I had only installed 1 correctly then I'm going to guess it will run like crap I know that I didn't do things by the book. ..especially with the front plug but I wanted to make sure I could get her started so I can move before the snow comes later tonight I used the anti seize on both plugs ..thin thin layer on the threads .. When I get it into the storage place I've got I'll go back and verify both boots are on and that everything still looks good Would you guys say I'm good to go ? Thanks (Message edited by Tomcrane on March 18, 2013) | ||
| Greg_e |
Other than fresh fuel and maybe some Seafoam mixed in the fuel to clean the fuel system, yes ride the heck out of it. Once it is warm you should check the oil level, this must be checked hot and while the cycle is leaned over on the side stand. If it hasn't been changed then you should plan on changing it, probably a little old. I used "special" high detergent racing team break in oil in 20w50 when I rebuilt the top end of my motor, ran that for several hundred miles. I like the Mobile 1 V twin oil in my 9R, other people like of stuff but I can buy the V twin on the shelves so that's what I use. I tried the Mobile 1 4T and was not happy with it. | ||
| Tomcrane |
Thanks for the help guys ....just wanted to be sure I don't have anything to worry about with the front plug with the way I tightened it ...I know the risk of over tightening and breaking it is a worry but given the fact the bike runs great means I didn't do that | ||
| V8basil |
Hello Tom I live in Hanson, not too far from you I'm guessing. If you get in a pinch bring the bike to my house and I can figure out most things, trany change, plugs, belt, oil change throtle cables, brake job, that kind of stuff. I have a garage and tools and stand ect... Mickey | ||
| Josh662234 |
Mickey, i'm in Abington, could really use you. PM'd you. Josh662234@gmail.com | ||
| V8basil |
Hello Josh Just pmd back and e-mailed also |
