| Author | Message | ||
     Ochoa0042 |
my timing is going out of whack the bike completely sucks on the low end. I popped open the timing cover, because it was set to advanced timing, to see if I could retard the timing. Well looks like the gate is malfunctioning or something.. I don't remember having it look like that, but it's gooey and sticky and slightly melted. I could be wrong, who knows, these bikes might turn organic after 7years.... I will have to upload a photo in a little bit, my photo on my camera is 8 megapixels and too large | ||
| Greg_e |
There was nothing gooey, or slightly melted about my 2003 when I had it open last year. It's sounds like a real big problem since it normally shouldn't even have an oil in there. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
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| Ochoa0042 |
it still works fine.. it doesn't want to Idle properly, in the cold for startup. Once warmed up it's fine. I had adjusted from Stock Timing to advanced timing when I hooked up the Buell to my computer and uploaded a new MAP to the ECU. Advancing the Timing makes it so that the spark ignites earlier in the combustion process, when this is good at High RPM because the inertia of the flywheel is in play allowing a longer (split second) combustion pulse, more gunt. In the low RPM, this earlier advanced firing causes slowing of the piston because the crank does not have the inertia to reach TDC. Cold startup is just a bitch, so I've had to readjust. And saw this Melting | ||
| Djohnk |
I converted my timing cover from rivets to screws about a year ago and noticed mine was gooey also. Someone either on this forum or another one told me gooey is okay, so I left it that way. I hope some experts speak up on this thread ... I am still torn between swapping it out with a new one just because it doesn't look right and being cheap and leaving it that way. | ||
| Reepicheep |
That's not melted, it's the potting compound they use. They are all like that, and the compound (aside from appearance) seems to work well. Stock timing on an XB is what you should be running under the timing cover. If you want to mess with it from there, you should probably be reprogramming the ECM. That part (the cam position sensor) can go bad. When mine did, it resulted in the engine dropping out at speed then coming back with big backfires. After progressing, it also was very hard to start and would not run well at low RPM's (if at all). Its pretty easy to diagnose with an oscilloscope, I got an interesting little $100 scope (not the most durable, but functionally pretty nice) and it worked brilliantly. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Is this your scope?: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10244? I've been eying that one for a while. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Exactly. I really like it. The stock firmware works well, the alternate (BenF or something) firmware seems to work better and is easier to navigate. For the price, it is amazing. It is a bit "flexy" though. The probes aren't industrial strength, the whole thing is light, nowhere near waterproof, and the first one I got had bad solder joints and had to be exchanged. So I treat it with kids gloves... but its holding up and working sell, and is an incredible tool for auto maintenance. It makes some impossible problems trivial... | ||
| Firemanjim |
As your timing is controlled by the ECU you should set the timing plate to stock setting then look at your AFV and TP settings for cold start trouble. If you hav ECM-Spy see if your engine temp sensor is acting proper and when was the last time intake seals were changed. | ||
| Ochoa0042 |
the last time my intake seals were changed whenever I dropped the engine and replaced everything within the engine, I would say that happen after about 5-7k ago. It does pop though. appreciate the umm comments |
