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Buell Forum » XBoard » Archive through November 05, 2012 » Oilchange question, specifically drain plug « Previous Next »

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Ktmguy
Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2012 - 11:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well I checked my primary chain, and while at it, I chained the oil. Figured I would do the engine also.
When I pulled the drain plug out of the swingarm, it had a slat thin washer on it with a little flat piece of rubber. Is this supposed to be there because I was thinking just the o-ring and thread sealant, Identical to the primary??
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Teeps
Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2012 - 11:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You are correct the swing arm plug is the same as the primary. Thread sealant and the little o'ring.
Sounds like the previous owner MacGyvered a drain plug seal solution.

Caution: do not use the factory torque spec. (30~31 ft/lbs.) many here have and the result is pulled threads, from the swing arm.

I torque both plugs to 12~14 ft/lbs. with aluminum crush washers.
With a new factory plug 10~12 ft/lbs. is plenty tight.
If you're really paranoid, use safety wire to secure the plugs.
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Ktmguy
Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2012 - 11:42 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So wuld you put the washer behind the oring, or after the oring? Just curious cause when I did the primary it had no washer, and I didnt reassemble it with one, just a new oring and sealant. Doesnt seem to be leaking so far. The swingarm was a different storry I can see an identation for some sort of washer. Im thinking the washer goeas against the bolt head, then the oring? then assemble? Funny, I have the whole sevice manual here, and I can see how to completely diassemble the engine, but the small details are lacking.
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Greg_e
Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2012 - 01:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would not put the washer back on, I would just use a fresh O ring and tighten to feel which is not very far. If you get a leak I would make sure the swingarm is smooth and then replace the drain plug.
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Sifo
Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2012 - 04:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

There shouldn't be a washer in there at all. I would recommend a new o-ring every time. You can probably get a few uses out of them, but they are cheap enough that I don't see much point to it. I think they are the same as the Sportster primary drain plug, so any HD dealer should have them. Then you might want to match it to a pack at a hardware store and pick up a lifetime supply.

A bit of thread sealant isn't a bad idea either. Teflon tape will have lots of folks telling you horror stories of strands of Teflon tape plugging up important oil passages. They might have a good point.
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Greg_e
Posted on Sunday, October 07, 2012 - 12:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Shouldn't need any sealant, that's what the o ring is for.
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Sifo
Posted on Sunday, October 07, 2012 - 08:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I like the sealant simply because it acts as a light duty thread locker as well as ensuring no drips. I wouldn't be as concerned about this, except for the known cases of stripped threads in the swing arm. It's probably overkill, but it's cheaper than repairing the threads in the swing arm and less of a hassle than losing the drain plug while riding. If you have a torque wrench that works in that range where your can't easily see the dial and you know not to use the spec provided in some of the manuals, you will probably be fine without the sealant. It's just a crutch that some of us feel more comfortable with.

It's true that you shouldn't need it. You also shouldn't need to safety wire it, yet it is required by many race organizations. It's up to you what you choose to do though. Sealant was just a suggestion.
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Teeps
Posted on Sunday, October 07, 2012 - 11:39 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Ktmguy Posted on Saturday, October 06, 2012

So wuld you put the washer behind the oring, or after the oring?
Just curious cause when I did the primary it had no washer, and I didnt reassemble it with one, just a new oring and sealant.


Not recommending you use washers, just saying what I do/have done.

I don't use the o'ring with aluminum crush washer (it's a Honda thing, I have a pile of alu washers.)

Best to stick with factory plug; as it comes with an o'ring and sealant.
Just don't over torque the plug in the swing arm, lest you be saying bad words...
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Ktmguy
Posted on Sunday, October 07, 2012 - 08:29 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well my drain plug has leaked since I have had it. So since oil chaged in primary and engine, the primary plug no longe rleaks, the swingarms still leaks a drop over night. I have sealant and new o-ring and have it as tight as I dare. I'll Live with it , its much better than it was!
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