| Author | Message | ||
     Ktmguy |
Just curious about a vibration in the 2300-2600 rpm range. Its noticably worse than it use to be. It does it moving, or sitting still. Beyond say 2700, it gets nice and smooth. I feel it good through the bars and seat. Listening to the engine I only hear the normal sounds, lifters, etc. It still runs fantastic. Doing some research, it seems possible it could be the front isolator? Its only at those RPMS, does this sound feasible? The only change made to the bike, other than tuning , is the removal of the DB killer out of the drummer exhaust. Perhaps its a harmonics thing? | ||
| Teeps |
A bad one will look like this: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/626617.html | ||
| Ktmguy |
Mine doesnt look like that, does it have to look that bad to be failing? | ||
| Sifo |
The front isolator will cause a vibration that will be most noticeable around the 3000 rpm range, but is much worse on deceleration. If it isn't far more noticeable on deceleration, I would guess the problem is elsewhere. Mine didn't look nearly as bad as the one pictured when it went bad, but setting a jack under the engine showed clear movement as the jack too the weight. Easy check to make. | ||
| Ktmguy |
When I ride to work tomorrow, I will see if its worse during deceleration.. hmm wonder what else it could be if it isnt that. I truly didnt really notice it until We took the db killer out of the drummer exhaust. its at such a narrow range, but kinda a pain because when I cruise Im in that rpm range ,2500 or so, in 5th gear on the back roads. | ||
| Ktmguy |
I just went for a ride.. My bar ends were a bit loose, I tightened them and it helped noticably. Perhaps the rest is just a buell being a buell. Its running proper now, so perhaps now that im not paying attention to flat spots etc.. im starting to notice the little nuances etc. its a tolerable vibration, for now, I'll keep an eye on it and see how it progreses. | ||
| Sifo |
The isolators do work better once the RPMs get above around 3000. I would also wonder about the rear isolator, but I don't know what symptoms to expect when it starts going bad, or how to diagnose it. The vibration on deceleration when the front one went was beyond any question that something had changed. | ||
| Rays |
I had an odd vibration on my '06 Uly that ended up being a loose eye in the tie-bar located beneath the regulator. I honestly can't remember exactly where it was noticeable in the rev range but it was one of those things that creep in over time and you aren't really sure. That tie-bar had about 45,000 miles on it from memory. | ||
| Greg_e |
Hmmm... That might explain what I'm getting when I go through the 1800-2200 rpm range where everything shakes up and down. I've replaced the main front and rear mount, maybe I should start replacing the other isolation systems. My vibration is either going up or going down, loaded or revving at idle. | ||
| Ktmguy |
Kinda what mines doing Greg. What other isolation is there, besides the front and rear? Again, I really never noticed mine until I took the DB killer out of the Drummer exhaust the previous owner had int here. I also noticed that im low on fuel, my light came on, so Im going to fill the tank and see if that places any weight on anything and changes it. Its not horrible, just noticable. | ||
| Sifo |
You could put the DB killer back in and see if it goes away. It's easy enough to do. There are a number of heim joints in the system. I'm not aware of problems with them wearing out though. It wouldn't hurt to check them for any slop. Muffler straps have been known to break, and could cause a vibration. Header bolts as well. Resist the temptation to just snug these things up a bit checking them. They don't like being over torqued. | ||
| Ktmguy |
L.. I cant put the db killer back in there, as it was really stuck in there, and we had to drill a hole in it and basically destroy it to get it out. I think when temps cool down, and riding season is over, Ill just give it all a once over and check from there. Really noticable around 1500 or so when idling down also. | ||
| Greg_e |
I think mine might be a loose bolt or two. Second on the header nuts, back them off a good half turn or so before checking the torque to make sure they are not going to get over torqued. | ||
| Skully |
Have you checked your bike's primary chain tension? | ||
| Ktmguy |
I have not checked the tension, how do you do that, and is there a way to adjust it? 23,000 miles, would it be loose? | ||
| Ktmguy |
O.k, actually I have looked it up, and it does not seem that difficult. However Im curious to the relevance of being in 5th gear? | ||
| Sifo |
5th gear just makes it easier to turn the engine over by turning the rear wheel. Pull the plugs first so you aren't dealing with compression. Rotate a couple of turns looking for the tightest spot on the chain and adjust it at that spot. It's pretty easy once you've done it the first time. |
