| Author | Message | ||
     Axlakow |
Need some help. I just finished swapping my motor on my 03 XB9R that had a bad tranny. Swapped a complete motor from an 05 xb9s with 25k, minus the throttle body/injectors and headers, which I used from my old motor. I removed the old motor and put the new one in following the service manual to a tee, everything came out and went back in with no problems. Went to try and fire her up for the first time today, and it won't start. It turns over fine, fuel pump kicks on, but it wont catch. My first thought was that it wasn't getting any spark, so I pulled the plugs and ground them to the bike, and there is definitely no spark. I though maybe the plugs in the new motor were bad, so I pulled the plugs out of my old motor(which was running perfectly fine, minus the bad tranny) and I get no spark with those either. I quadruple checked all of my electrical connections, and everything is plugged in as it should be. i do nto see any reason why I should not be getting any spark at all. One thought was it has something to do with the ignition components(crank sensor etc) but I do not know. Any ideas guys? Am i missing something really stupid. I hav done engine swaps that were ten times more complicated than this with no problems. recently did a new cylinder head on an Audi A4 1.8T with the five valve heads. Took me 3 days, but that started right up no problems when I was finished, and it was immensely more difficult than swapping the motor in my bike | ||
| Axlakow |
As an added item of note. After I turn the key to the on position, the fuel pump will cycle/prime for 2-3 seconds, then shut off, and not come back on(like it is supposed to). This is where it gets strange, if I turn the handlebars(bike is not running, just turned on at this point), push up and down on the suspension, or wiggle the bike around a bit, the fuel pump will cycle again for 2-3 seconds, then shut off again. The check engine light comes on every time I do this for about 4 seconds, then shuts off without coming back on(indicating no error codes), unless I move the bike again. Could I have a loose or pinched wire somewhere that is causing all of my problems? I did not touch the wiring under the fairing when I swapped the motor, only the connectors around the throttle body, and the ones underneath the front sprocket cover. | ||
| Greg_e |
Is the ground strap from the frame to the motor mount attached? Is the coil bolted down tight? Is the electrical connector to the coil attached all the way? As far as the pump running when you shake the bike, not sure what is happening there. It should only run long enough to prime the system, then it waits for the EMC to tell it to run when the engine is running. Sounds like you have a loose connection somewhere but not sure where to look if you didn't do anything under the front fairing. | ||
| Rays |
The symptoms you are seeing when moving the bars is exactly what happens when you toggle the kill switch on and off so that is where I would start looking for that one. The output from the cam position sensor is one possible suspect for the no spark - I assume that came with the new engine? | ||
| Greg_e |
You should compare the sensor wheels on the cam position sensor, there is a difference between 03 and later models, this could be part of the problem since the ECM might not be counting the correct number of pulses. Worth a look and easy to do, just make sure to mark the spot where the hall pickup is located so you can move it back if everything is the same. If not the same then you'll need to swap parts off the old engine. | ||
| Panhead_dan |
I rotated my engine recently to replace some gaskets and it would not start afterwards. There were multiple codes that had to be reset. The tps had to be reset also. You also have a broken wire or some other connection problem up front, maybe near the neck. | ||
| Reepicheep |
Not strange at all. Your wiring harness up where it goes out from the flyscreen and up under the frame has a wire (going to the kill switch) that has an internal break. It may have been there all along, and the last motor rotate finally pulled it apart. Or maybe you routed a throttle cable wrong or something and bound it up when you rotated the motor back up. No big deal either way, easy to find and fix. Disect that bundle, run each wire through your fingers, find the one where it kinks easily (the copper is broken inside, and the insulation is all that is resisting bending), and pull it apart, solder in a 1" splice of new wire, and shrink tube it to insulate again. You can even look at the wiring schematic and it will tell you which colors wires to check, but I'd just check them all, replace the ones that are broken, then go back afterwards and note that one of them was the kill switch and feel smug. That's what I did.  There might be other problems too, but knock this one out first. Also make sure you back the idle adjustment screw all the way out before you do the TPS reset. That is such an easy step that I always forget to do it. | ||
| Axlakow |
Problem solved. Two of the connectors near the front sprocket are exactly the same shape, but different colors. One is for the cam sensor, and obviously the signal was not going where it was supposed to, so no spark. Had them plugged in backwards. After swapping the connectors, started right up first try and seem to run great! Once again, the problem comes down to my stupidity | ||
| Sifo |
There's a difference between ignorance and stupidity. Ignorance is easily cured. Sounds like your problem is cured! Now you know your bike much better than just a week ago. Hopefully you will get years of fun riding out of it.  | ||
| Rageonthedl |
Hey i messaged you about that old motor. But its linked to my old email. So email me mlnagy419 at hotmail dot com Thanks good to here you got her fired up! |
