| Author | Message | ||
     Wgnzlz |
I've been having an issue with my XB12. If I don't ride it for a couple days and don't keep it on the tender, the battery dies. I thought I had it fixed after replacing the voltage regulator a couple of weeks ago but that didn't do it. I've had my battery, which I bought last summer, load tested and it was ok. Also, I've tested the stator per the instructions in the service/electronics manual and that was also ok. I'm not sure what else to do. Anyone have any ideas? | ||
| Sifo |
What's the voltage across the terminals when running? It should be roughly 13.9 - 14.7 or so. How long are the rides when you ride it? If they tend to all be short hops, the battery may never get recharged. You can also measure the amperage being drawn with the ignition off. I'm not sure what's "normal" but it should be well below an amp, close to zero. there is just a little draw to keep things like the clock working and memory for the trip odometer. I assume the battery is reasonably clean. It's "possible" to get nasty enough to let current flow between the terminals, but AGM batteries tend to stay pretty clean. Bottom line is that if it tests OK, it is either not getting charged, or it's getting discharged. Measuring with a meter is the way to know. (Message edited by SIFO on August 22, 2012) | ||
| Wgnzlz |
I don't remember the numbers but before replacing the voltage regulator I measured the voltage across the terminals after the bike was charged up (with tender) and it was between the values you posted. I also measured the amperage draw and it was also in spec per the manual. The last few times riding it after taking it off the tender were to work and back, which is 30 miles each way. | ||
| Sifo |
But did you measure the voltage AFTER replacing the regulator while running? | ||
| Wgnzlz |
I did not. I will have to do that this weekend as i don't have much time to do anything during the week except work. | ||
| Sifo |
If it isn't putting the correct charging voltage when you measure it, the #77 connector to the voltage regulator could be the cause. I know earlier bikes had issues where the connector would burn and fail. An updated connector is available that should solve the problem. Your '08 may or may not have the new connector, I'm not sure. Here's a diagram of the wiring that shows the #77 connector.  | ||
| Sifo |
Here's more good info on the old #77 connector... https://docs.google.com/document/pub?id=1eGkF1pN1d ftycPcTD-6Mb4p19gcxWvXEJcIIjEVFycw According to this, you should have the new connector on your '08 model. | ||
| Jbolt |
I just had the same issue. The '08s connector is different from the older models. I'm not saying this is definitely whats wrong with yours but after all the tests, turned out my stator was bad.  | ||
| Wgnzlz |
How much did you pay to have it replaced? | ||
| Jbolt |
I got the replacement piece form AmericanSportbike. Then about $150 in labor at my local bike shop (not harley). | ||
| Wgnzlz |
Installed the new stator and took it for a 20 mile ride. After I did a few things at home, I hopped on it to go for another ride and it wouldn't start. This is driving me nuts. I guess I'll buy a new battery. (Message edited by wgnzlz on September 17, 2012) | ||
| Andymnelson |
Wait, you installed a new voltage regulator AND stator without testing them first, and without having the battery tested?? Take the battery in to any parts store and have them run a full test on it. Do you have the service manual for your bike? You need one. VR and stator tests are in there- they are very simple tests. On my '06 (I am quite sure your '08 will be different), all that is needed to test the stator is to measure: - Resistance from all 3 pins to ground - Resistance from all 3 pins, pin to pin - A/C voltage at about 2000 RPMs Once proper stator output is confirmed, THEN test VR output...simply testing output voltage is all that's needed here. Get a service manual and start reading....very good, helpful and useful info in there. | ||
| Andymnelson |
A while back (after chasing electrical gremlins on my '06, and learning A LOT more about our electrical systems than I cared to!), I said the following, and I think it bears repeating (as I have a few times since!):
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| Wgnzlz |
I tested the stator per the service manual and had the battery load tested at AdvanceAuto. Since I was told there isn't a definitive way to test the voltage regulator I figured that was the weak link and replaced it. I have the service manual and electronics diagnostics manual and use them all the time. | ||
| Andymnelson |
Great, I am shocked when I find self-mechanics who do not have them! Did Advance do the quick test of the extensive one? The longer one takes like 30 minutes, but can often reveal problems on a battery that looks fine on the short test. | ||
| Wgnzlz |
They just did a quick test, it only took a couple of minutes. | ||
| Andymnelson |
Call and ask if they have a more extensive test they can do. Some of the Advance Autos, as well as PepBoys do not have the equipment to do the longer test. O'Reilly and NAPA have always been able to do it for me. I once had a car battery that tested good on the short test, but failed the longer test...replacement battery fixed those issues. | ||
| Wgnzlz |
This is probably a dumb question but should I charge the battery completely before taking it in? | ||
| Andymnelson |
It doesn't really matter- part of the test is charging it and seeing if it takes a charge. I guess I probably would charge it tho. | ||
| Ourdee |
Charge it, then let it sit for a few hours prior to taking it in. | ||
| Wgnzlz |
I can't find anyone that'll do anything other than a quick test. | ||
| Greg_e |
Don't buy a Shorai lithium battery! It's been two weeks since I sent them an email saying that the replacement battery still wasn't cutting it. I've tested everything 6 way to Sunday and know my charging system is fine. Problem comes up after riding long enough to make the fans run when you shut it off. After that there is little energy left to start the machine, when it is cold it will reset the clock. With a new VR my charging system runs 14.15 to 14.25 at the battery terminals depending on RPM. It is also charging the battery after start at approximately 10 amps with both headlights on so I know I have the overhead to run everything. Been dealing with other messes in my life and haven't ordered another lead acid, or even started my cycle in weeks. | ||
| Sifo |
Greg, Just curious, have you tried warming the battery up by letting it run the headlights a couple of minutes? From another thread on this subject I was doing a lot of reading about lithium batteries and it was common to have to run some current to warm them a bit, then let them rest and the voltage comes up. Sounds like a PITA to me, but I would be curious if it would help your situation. I want to like these batteries, but just haven't been convinced. Sorry for the thread hijack. | ||
| Greg_e |
Yup, and that is 130 watts of headlights (10 amps). The two batteries I've now had drop voltage like crazy with almost no load, I hit it with a .4 amp discharge load on my RC battery charger and the voltage drops from wherever it was resting to below 13 volts in no time at all (several minutes). Pretty much running the lights just pulled the voltage down and made it worse. I've been having issues even at 60 degrees F and higher. And I wanted to like it enough to buy one, now it looks like I'm going to be out $200. I even sent them detailed messages and asked if there was a different battery with more cells to give me more current reserve, and how much that upgrade would cost me with an exchange. Never had a reply back yet. Going to send another message to Revzilla and see if they can kick some backside hard enough to get things done. Prolly order a new battery this weekend in case I can pull things together well enough to care about riding for the last little bit of the season. If I ever decide to go with Lithium again, I'm just going to buy 4s1p packs made for the RC hobby industry and create my own 4s3p or 4s4p packs. I know the A123 cells will run at 30C discharge rate until they are empty (and with little voltage sag). With 3 parallel I should be able to get the 200 amps peak that my cycle seems to draw during start. probably really less since I was using an analog meter and the ballistics of the needle probably over shot by a bit, but definitely more than 100 amps during compression and around 100 amps during exhaust. | ||
| Wgnzlz |
Just got it tested at the local HD shop. When hooked up it said the battery was ok but didn't measure any CCA's. Fired it up so that the tester could test the charging system and the battery voltage dropped to 5.3v, not good. After running through the tests the meter read "Charging system failure". I am so frustrated and have no idea what to do. For now, I'll take a look at the grounds again. | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
My stator was shorted, but still output the correct volts so I thought it was the VR (that was BEFORE i knew it was bad). I replaced the VR only to find voltage to the battery was still too low. Found out there are 3 stator tests to be performed. It failed one of them. Have you performed all 3 stator tests? It's easy and you have to do them to verify the if the stator is good or bad. In my haste i just checked the voltage output, which was correct, so i moved on. expensive mistake on my part. | ||
| Wgnzlz |
I performed every stator test listed in the service manual. It passed every test. I got a food deal on a new one so I replaced it anyway. The. Ike has a new. Outage regulator and stator | ||
| Spacecapsule1 |
is your voltage from the regulator good? directly from the regulator, not across the battery terminals. |
