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07xb12ss
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 01:09 pm: |
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Parting out a low mileage (11-12k) 039S. Bike was totaled, so I'm parting it out. Front motor mount broke and damaged the mounts/fins on the front jug so that needs to be replaced. Other than that controls/linkage is broke on left side and cosmetic scrapes. Will post pictures tonight. What's it worth? One guy tells me close to $1k, another tells me $400-500. |
Froggy
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 01:26 pm: |
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Complete motors go for around a grand if they are not damaged, I'm not sure what yours would be worth (pics will help), but somewhere around $600-700 is what I would guess. |
07xb12ss
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 03:43 pm: |
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Greg_e
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 04:02 pm: |
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If I were buying it I would expect shifting problems. It needs a new front head or extensive welding to fix the broken mount. With that much force on the front jug I would expect it needs a new base gasket. Since it is an 03 it needs valve seals if they haven't been done. You see where I'm going... Take as much as you can get, but I wouldn't expect much over about $500 unless you can prove it is still fine which you can't really do unless you put it in another frame. |
07xb12ss
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 04:32 pm: |
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I understand all your points except the one on expecting shifting problems.... why you do say that? |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 04:36 pm: |
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That front head is toast. The rear head may be toast as well, mine was with a much lighter impact than what that one obviously saw. Look closely where the bracket between it and the frame bolts down. The shifter pawl mechanism is fairly delicate, so I agree there may be shifting problems. That heim joint won't rip in half easily. The good news is that the shifting pawl is mostly accessible without splitting the cases, provided they didn't bend a pin on the shift drum. |
07xb12ss
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 04:43 pm: |
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Reep, you thinking that is a crack in the bottom of the head? bout midway up the brace? I guess i should check that out tonight. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 05:46 pm: |
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Since the head is a mounting point and part of the frame, I agree the head is gone, it would probably cost one than the price of a good used head to weld it, and then you have warping as an issue. Rocker box is probably OK and so is the rocker cover. Not sure why the rear head would be gone, but if experience shows it is possible then I'll go with it. Muffler is probably worth $200 to $300 alone, add more for the header which looks like it survived. if it has the "race" ecm (which it probably does), add another $100 to this package. Swingarm at least $100 might be more (haven't priced them in a while) if damage in minimal. Not sure what the instrument cluster is worth, if the same as used on the R cycles I might be interested so I can do a mod on mine without the down time (else it waits until winter). Looks like the rear tire is decent, should drive the price on the rear wheel up a little. Shock should be $40 or more. Might get $40 for the rear sub frame for someone that wants to d a swap. Really need to see the rest to give prices on other parts, though there isn't too much more to sell assuming the front end is trashed. Frame if it doesn't have a big dent in it would be worth something if it still has a clear title. Anywhere from $50 to $200 but normal price ends up around $100-$150 with title. |
07xb12ss
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 06:05 pm: |
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I will start a new thread tonight in the classifieds with pictures of everything I have. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 09:26 pm: |
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Yeah, front head because you can score good heads for about $200 or less, and nobody will weld up the current one for anything near that. Melt it down and recycle it. The rear head broke on mine in my accident... there is that triangular heavy bracket that bolts to a heavy hiem joint that goes across to the frame. My rear head sheared vertically, both front and back bolts in that rear head. For reasons I can't explain, the frame (which does not look that beefy) in that place was not bothered a bit, even though an inch of aluminum in the head sheared. Go figure.. |
07xb12ss
| Posted on Thursday, August 02, 2012 - 10:28 pm: |
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Parts posted. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, August 03, 2012 - 08:24 am: |
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Sorry to dump on your thread, I was just thinking out loud. I have an 07 Uly, and I am right in the middle of a cluster of crank failures. One of the ideas in the back of my mind if my crank goes is to retrofit an XB9 motor in place of the 12. Less power, but better gearing, and (IMHO) ***much*** better reliability. |
07xb12ss
| Posted on Friday, August 03, 2012 - 09:50 am: |
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No dumping at all. I posted here to get some input and I got it. I thought people were just putting the 9 primary on to the 12 motor for the gearing issue.... maybe not, I never had a Uly so didnt dive into it much. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, August 03, 2012 - 10:26 am: |
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That's what people are doing, and it seems a nice mod. But looking around, I can find a replacement 9 motor significantly cheaper and more easily than a 12 motor. I like the off the line grunt of the 12, and I like the little better fuel economy. But I also like the howl of an XB9 at 7200 RPM. And that 9 motor in my 2005 XB9SX was the single most reliable mechanical device I have ever had the pleasure of owning. It would be interesting to ride a Uly with a 9 motor and see how different it really feels. So if and when my 07 12 motor crank bearing goes to Valhalla to be with its XR750 crank bearing ancestors, I'll look at both 9 and 12 motors. If I find a good local 9 motor cheap, I'd be very tempted to use it. |
07xb12ss
| Posted on Friday, August 03, 2012 - 10:52 am: |
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I started on a 12 and did love the off the line torque but that 9 between 5k-7k RPMs is awesome! Race kit had that dip between 4500 and 5000 so if I was in the twisties I kept it up there in the upper RPMs.... |
Foximus
| Posted on Friday, August 03, 2012 - 02:02 pm: |
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I bet a Uly with a 9 motor would FEEL much lighter. |
Greg_e
| Posted on Friday, August 03, 2012 - 02:40 pm: |
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Why not a 9 stroke with a big bore kit? Maybe even put the 12 primary gear/chain on it so you feel at home. Aside from the possible transmission issue, the above engine looks like it would be a good donor for a project like this. What's the largest bore available and how much is it to bore out the block for the largest jugs? I know 1050 is the limit without the block work, the jug skirts are very thin on mine. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Friday, August 03, 2012 - 03:11 pm: |
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Yeah, a 9 with a 1050 kit would probably make more power than a stock 12. Probably be more durable as well. So a nackered top end with a good bottom end and a 1050 kit would be another good choice. I think the 9 gearing is better for the uly than the 12 gearing, but I personally don't switch because the 12 motor's crank issues (which I suspect are to some degree RPM related). Don't get me wrong though, i don't loose sleep over it. Some 07 12's die young, some go forever, mine will be one or the other and I'll deal with either. |
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