| Author | Message | ||
     Gcm |
This has been an off and on problem for a while. I've been riding the bike every day lately, sometimes it goes fine, other times it cuts out and mis-fires to the point of barely running. It always seems fine for the first 15-20 minutes of running (unless it's going to run fine all day), then it starts cutting out. This is cruising at motorway speeds. Most of the time if I drop it into 4th and rev it up a bit it'll come right and I go back to cruising in 5th (about 110kph/4k rpm). Its winter here and the cold weather seems to encourage it to run better than when its warm, but not always. Lately coming off the motorway on to the streets and stopping at a light it'll run really really bad, so bad that I'm worried it'll die while I'm waiting for the light. I keep the revs up and when pulling away it cuts and misses and barely runs. The other day I tried to pass a car going 40kph and all the bike did was cough and sputter, I had to pull back in behind. Sometimes the engine light comes on when it starts playing up but not always. The light will go out after a few moments but the bike will still be playing up. I don't under rev it and it always gets a good blow out off the line. It seems unlikely that the plugs would be fouled unless its metering in way too much fuel then it should. I haven't looked at the plugs yet but if they are fouled I think its likely to be a symptom and not the cause of the problem. Also the engine light thing seems to indicate something the bike knows about (fuel pressure, voltage, some other fault, etc). Is there a way to get diagnostic info from the bike while it's being ridden? Any help and advise very much appreciated! - Greg | ||
| Hogs |
while it's being ridden? Thats the million dollar ? for sure..I`m sure there will be some coming in and giving ya some options of software,etc..You can data Log and review on computer later etc... Good luck | ||
| Gcm |
Well, it's been on a dyno to diagnose (I think they just ran it, not actually monitored with anything but their ears) and of course it ran fine. So the only way to get it to show the symptoms seems to be putting it on the road. I could always duct tape a laptop to the tank.... | ||
| Froggy |
Being that the check engine light has lit, it should have a historic code stored in the ECM, hopefully that can clue you into the issue. Another option is to use a program like Tunerpro to datalog, you just run the program on a small Windows computer in your backpack and ride till it happens. | ||
| Gcm |
Does anyone have a reference for ECU codes and how to see them? | ||
| Froggy |
   | ||
| Gcm |
Cheers Froggy! | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Sounds like it's messing up when it's switching over to "learn mode". Check the insulation of the wire coming off of you Oxygen sensor. My X1 liked to rub through and run like crap (until I tied it up) | ||
| Skully |
My 2003 XB9S ran very erratically until I found that the TPS wiring was shorting against the rear cylinder top intake manifold bolt. | ||
| Ulynut |
Without knowing what codes are stored, I would be willing to bet that it's a rubbed wire somewhere, possibly a bad spark plug wire. | ||
| Xmetalchrisx |
I've worked on a bunch where the clip on the connector for the TPS breaks off and it becomes unplugged. Just something quick to check... | ||
| Gcm |
I've been fiddling about with the bike over the past couple of weeks. Still riding every day and still experiencing intermittent sputtering/misfiring and momentary cut-outs. Error code from the ECU is 14, engine temp sensor. I've had the airbox off twice now, once to generally inspect the wiring for rubbed insulation and loose connectors. Didn't find anything so bolted it back up and rode it for the week with the usual behaviour. This weekend I did what I could to follow the diagnostic steps for code 14 from the service manual without the help of the breakout box they recommend to use. Everything checked out fine but the outcome was to replace the ECU. One point wasn't clear in the diagnostic steps on the step after you disconnect the ET sensor and measure the voltage between pins 9 of conn 11 and pin 2 of conn 10 with the ignition on. The next step you measure the same pins with the connectors unplugged from the ECU but it doesn't specifically say if you should leave the ignition on or off. I measured about 7v with the ignition off and 0 when it was on. I assume it should be left on, but the diagnosis is quite different from the results when the ignition is off. Can anyone clarify?? 2 days the bike has been running perfectly, I'm wondering if maybe the ECU connectors just needed reseating? (I neglected that on the first inspection for no good reason.) Wouldn't be the first time the bike has ran for a few days without any problems so we'll see as the week goes on... |
